Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회지)

Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회)
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Effect of Sedum kamtschaticum Fisch. Leaf Extract Fractions on Collagenase and Tyrosinase Inhibitory Activity

기린초 잎 추출 분획물의 콜라게네이즈 및 타이로시네이즈 저해활성 효과

  • Yerin Kim (Department of Chemistry, The Graduate School of Mokwon University) ;
  • Jayoung Kim (Department of Chemistry, The Graduate School of Mokwon University) ;
  • Bora Kim (Department of Chemistry, The Graduate School of Mokwon University)
  • 김예린 (목원대학교 대학원 화학과) ;
  • 김자영 (목원대학교 대학원 화학과) ;
  • 김보라 (목원대학교 대학원 화학과)
  • Received : 2025.12.03
  • Accepted : 2026.01.28
  • Published : 2026.03.30
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Abstract

In this study, the biological activities of fractions obtained from Sedum kamtschaticum (S. kamtschaticum) Fisch. leaf were investigated to evaluate their potential as natural functional cosmetic ingredients. Among the fractions, the ethyl acetate fraction of S. kamtschaticum leaf (SLE) exhibited the highest DPPH radical scavenging activity and the highest total polyphenol content. SLE showed excellent tyrosinase inhibitory effect, and reduced melanin synthesis of B16F10 melanoma cells. In addition, SLE significantly inhibited the formation of advanced glycation end products (AGE) and collagenase activity as anti-aging marker. In particular, SLE had antibacterial effect against Malassezia furfur and Cutibacterium acnes, showing the possibility of improving dandruff and acne skin and using alternative preservative. According to HPLC, gallic acid and it's derivatives were detected in high levels. These results show that S. kamtschaticum leaf SLE can be used as a natural cosmeceutical material with anti-oxidant, collagenase inhibitory activity, tyrosinase inhibitiory activity and anti-microbial activity.

본 연구에서는 기린초 잎(Sedum kamtschaticum Fisch leaf) 분획물들에 대한 다양한 생리활성을 조사하여 화장품 효능 천연물소재 가능성을 평가하였다. 분획물들 중에 기린초 잎 에틸 아세테이트 분획물(Sedum kamtschaticum leaf ethyl acetate fraction, SLE)이 가장 우수한 DPPH 라디칼 소거 활성과 높은 함량의 총 폴리페놀을 보여주었다. SLE는 타이로시네이즈 저해 효과를 보였으며, B16F10 흑색종 세포에서 멜라닌 합성이 감소됨을 나타내었다. SLE는 최종 당화산물(advanced glycation end products, AGE) 생성 및 콜라겐 분해효소인 collagenase 활성을 유의하게 억제하였다. 또한, SLE는 Malassezia furfur 및 Cutibacterium acnes에 대하여 우수한 항균 효과를 나타내어 비듬 및 여드름 피부 개선 및 대체 보존제 사용 가능성을 보여주었으며, HPLC 분석 결과 갈릭애씨드 및 그의 유도체가 함유됨을 확인되었다. 이와 같은 결과는 기린초 잎 에틸 아세테이트 분획물(SLE)이 항산화, 콜라게네이즈 저해활성, 타이로시네이즈 저해활성 및 항균 활성을 가진 천연 기능성소재가 될 수 있다고 판단된다.

Keywords

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