대한화장품학회지 (Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea)

  • 제51권1호
  • /
  • Pages.75-84
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  • 2025
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  • 1226-2587(pISSN)
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  • 2288-9507(eISSN)
대한화장품학회 (Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea)
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pH 조절을 위해 사용된 염기(베이스) 종류가 비타민 C 의 변색 안정도에 미치는 영향

Effect of the Type of Base Used for pH Adjustment on the Discoloration Stability of Vitamin C

  • 이민기 (수원대학교 화학공학과) ;
  • 노호식 (수원대학교 화학공학과)
  • Min Ki Lee (Department of Chemical Engineering, The University of Suwon) ;
  • Ho Sik Rho (Department of Chemical Engineering, The University of Suwon)
  • 투고 : 2025.03.07
  • 심사 : 2025.03.24
  • 발행 : 2025.03.30
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초록

비타민 C (Ascorbic acid)는 열, 빛, 공기에 노출될 경우 구조가 쉽게 변형되어 산화되는 성질을 가지고 있다. 비타민 C가 산화되면 생성된 산화물에 의해 변색이 발생한다. 일반적으로 비타민 C의 안정도는 함량을 측정하지만 실제 사용자는 변색에 훨씬 더 민감하게 반응하여 색상으로 비타민 C 제품의 품질을 평가하기 때문에 비타민 C의 변색을 방지하는 것은 중요하다. 화장품에 고함량의 비타민 C를 사용할 경우 낮은 pH (3 이하)를 나타내기 때문에 화장품 관리 기준인 pH 3.0 이상을 맞추기 위해서는 염기(베이스)를 반드시 사용해야 한다. 그러나 비타민 C의 변색은 pH에 크게 영향을 받는다. 이에 본 연구에서는 염기의 종류가 비타민 C의 변색 안정에 미치는 영향을 확인하였다. 제조한 각각의 샘플의 변색을 비교한 결과, 비타민 C만 첨가한 샘플의 경우의 변색이 염기를 첨가하여 pH를 3.0 이상으로 만든 샘플보다 빠르게 진행된 것이 확인되었다. 또한, 다른 염기를 사용한 샘플보다 강염기인 sodium hydroxide를 사용한 샘플의 OD 값이 낮은 것을 확인하였다. 따라서 비타민 C와 sodium hydroxide를 사용하여 pH 3, 4, 5 구간을 맞춘 샘플의 변색을 추가적으로 진행하였다. 일반적으로 pH가 높으면 비타민 C의 안정도가 감소하는 것으로 받아들여지고 있는데 이와는 반대의 결과가 얻어졌다. 이는 염기로 사용한 금속 염과 유기아민이 비타민 C와 킬레이트를 형성하여 산화 과정을 억제하는 것으로 예상한다.

Vitamin C (Ascorbic acid) is highly susceptible to structural modification and oxidation when exposed to heat, light, and air. When vitamin C oxidizes, discoloration occurs due to the generated oxidized substances. Typically, the stability of vitamin C is assessed by measuring its content, but actual consumers are much more sensitive to discoloration and often evaluate the quality of vitamin C products based on color. Therefore, preventing the discoloration of vitamin C is crucial. When using high levels of vitamin C in cosmetics, it has a low pH (below 3), so a base must be used to maintain a pH of 3.0 or higher, which is the standard for cosmetic care. However, the discoloration of vitamin C is highly affected by pH. In this study, we examined the effect of different bases on the discoloration stability of vitamin C. By comparing the discoloration of each sample prepared, it was found that the sample with vitamin C alone discolored faster than the sample with the base added to raise the pH above 3.0. Furthermore, it was confirmed that the sample using a strong base, sodium hydroxide, had a lower OD value compared to other bases. Consequently, additional discoloration tests were conducted on samples adjusted to pH levels of 3, 4, and 5 using vitamin C and sodium hydroxide. It is generally accepted that higher pH decreases the stability of vitamin C, but the opposite result was obtained. This is expected because the metal salts and organic amines used as bases form chelates with vitamin C, inhibiting the oxidation process.

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