Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회지)

Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회)
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A Study on Lipid Nanovesicles for Enhanced Skin Absorption of Cosmetic Active Ingredients

화장품 효능성분 피부흡수 증진을 위한 지질나노베지클 연구

  • Received : 2024.06.07
  • Accepted : 2024.08.12
  • Published : 2024.09.30
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Abstract

In this work, lipid nanovesicles (LNV) containing niacinamide were prepared by changing the concentration of lecithin, fatty acids (palmitic acid), and surfactant (polysorbate 60), and physicochemical characteristics analysis and skin permeability evaluation were performed. The present LNVs were measured with an average diameter of 77 ~ 160 nm, zeta potential -63 ~ -31 mV depending on the concentration of lecithin and polysorbate 60. As a result of observing the stability over time for 12 weeks, LNV1 showed much better colloidal stability than others. In addition, in vitro skin penetration using Franz cell was evaluated for LNV. In this work, niacinamide was selected as the model drug. As a result of skin penetration, it was confirmed that the skin penetration of fatty acid containing LNV1 was much superior than control. These results confirm that LNVs containing lecithin, fatty acids, and surfactants can support the skin absorption of active ingredients in cosmetics.

본 연구에서는 레시틴, 지방산(palmitic acid) 및 계면활성제(polysorbate 60)를 변화시켜 니아신아마이드를 함유한 지질나노베지클(lipid nanovesicles, LNV)을 제조하여 물리화학적 특성 분석과 피부투과성에 대한 평가를 수행하였다. 제조된 LNV는 레시틴과 polysorbate 60의 함량에 따라 평균직경 77 ~ 160 nm, 제타 전위 -63 ~ -31 mV로 측정되었다. 12 주 간의 경시 안정도 관찰 결과, LNV1이 가장 우수한 안정도를 보여주었다. 또한 이렇게 만들어진 LNV에 대해 프란츠셀을 이용하여 in vitro 피부 흡수를 평가하였다. 이 때 모델 약물은 니아신아마이드가 선정되었다. 피부 흡수 평가 결과, 지방산 함유 LNV1의 피부 흡수가 대조군 대비 우수한 것을 확인할 수 있었다. 이러한 결과로부터 레시틴, 지방산 및 계면활성제가 함유된 LNV는 화장품의 효능 성분 피부 흡수에 도움을 줄 수 있음을 확인하였다.

Keywords

References

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