DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

Characteristics of the New Chinese style in Ziggy Chen's men's fashion design

지기 첸(Ziggy Chen) 남성복 디자인에 나타난 신-중국풍 특성

  • Hao Li (Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Hanyang University) ;
  • Younhee Lee (Major in Human-Tech Convergence, Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Hanyang University)
  • 이호 (한양대학교 의류학과) ;
  • 이연희 (한양대학교 의류학과 휴먼테크융합전공)
  • Received : 2024.07.24
  • Accepted : 2024.08.28
  • Published : 2024.08.31

Abstract

This study aims to examine the expressive characteristics of the New Chinese style in the collection of Chinese fashion designer Ziggy Chen, analyze the inner meaning, and suggest a new direction in Chinese fashion design. As a research method, the background and concept of New-Chinese style occurrence were examined through previous studies, and the characteristics of the New Chinese style expression in fashion were investigated. The characteristics of the New Chinese style were summarized as cultural tradition, historical ethnicity, and pluralistic convergence. Based on these contents, the characteristics of the New Chinese style expression in Ziggy Chen's men's fashion design were analyzed. The data collection range was selected as the range of 20 seasons collected from 2012 S/S to 2022 A/W, which was collected on fashion sites and the brand's official Instagram. The analysis results are as follows. First, subcultural resistance is a retro and ragged decadence formed by combining punk elements and industrial styles based on the clothing styles of lower-class Chinese people in the 17th and 90s. Second, cultural traditionality was influenced by traditional culture by mainland Chinese designers, who expressed the conservative presence of tradition and the Chinese style by looking at it from an oriental perspective. Third, historical ethnicity forms a Chinese fashion culture in which the national spirit and the development of the times coexist, while traditional culture and contemporary social values develop in harmony. Fourth, traditional fashion develops by combining a contemporary aesthetic sense and lifestyle with pluralistic convergence.

Keywords

References

  1. Anchoret. (2020, April 13). Ziggy Chen-昏暗之处的悠然微光 [Ziggy Chen - The slow light in the dark]. Sohu. Retrieved April 13, 2020, from https://www.sohu.com/a/387764599_500122
  2. Anniversary Team. (n.d.). Uncovering Shanghai-Born designer Ziggy Chen SS 18 collection. Anniversary-magazine. Retrieved June 25, 2022 from https://www.anniversary-magazine.com/all/uncovering-shanghai-born-designer-ziggy-chen-ss18-collection
  3. CFW. (2015, October 9). 90后最青睐的23个服装品牌 看消费主力都爱啥? [The 23 most popular clothing brands of post-90s generation]. Fashion Network. Retrieved February 18, 2022, from https://cn.fashionnetwork.com/news/90-hou-zui-qing-lai-de-23-ge-fu-zhuang-pin-pai---kan-xiao-fei-zhu-li-dou-ai-sha--,580776.html
  4. Chinese Academy of Arts and Crafts. (2022, February 18). 柳沙:国潮消费的时尚心理学诠释 [Liu Sha: Fashion psychology interpretation of national trend consumption]. China National Arts and Crafts Society. Retrieved February 18, 2022, from https://m.cnacs.net.cn/20/202202/3725.html
  5. Chunmei Fox. (2015, May 8). 不仅仅只有长袍马褂...... 民国男性服饰图说 [Not just long gowns and jackets... Illustrated guide to men's clothing during the Republic of China]. Wapbaike.baidu. Retrieved May 20, 2022, from https://wapbaike.baidu.com/tashuo/browse/content?id=1350e486d2f8077c0818a60a
  6. Connor, S. (2004). Postmodernism and literature. In S. Connor (Ed.), The Cambridge Companion to postmodernism (pp. 62-81). Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
  7. Deng, M. Y. (2019). 纪录片《一件华服》中新中式服饰文化的艺术呈现 [The artistic presentation of the New-Chinese costume culture in the documentary 'A Chinese clothes']. Unpublished master's thesis, Liaoning Normal University, Dalian, China.
  8. Feng, J. W. (2021, December 13). 华人设计师 Ziggy Chen [Chinese designer Ziggy Chen]. Baijiahao.baidu. Retrieved December 13, 2021, from https://baijiahao.baidu.com/s?id=1719014259582992199
  9. Fung. (2012, July 31). Ziggy Chen 2013 春夏系列 [Ziggy Chen 2013 spring and summer collection]. Hypebeast. Retrieved June 13, 2022, from https://hypebeast.com/hk/2012/7/ziggy-chen-2013-spring-summer-collection
  10. GQ24. (2016, September 4). Ziggy Chen 时间中的斑驳美感 [Ziggy Chen dotted beauty in time]. Gq. Retrieved September 4, 2016, from https://www.gq.com.cn/fashion/news_1955698809c4a2a2.html
  11. Hsu, E. (2013, January 31). Ziggy Chen 2013 秋冬系列 [Ziggy Chen 2013 Fall/Winter collection]. Hypebeast. Retrieved July 8, 2022, from https://hypebeast.cn/2013/1/ziggy-chen-2013-fall-wintercollection
  12. Huang, M. (2005). Costumes in the period of the Republic of China. Journal of Zhuzhou Teachers College, (04), 12-14.
  13. Inaction (n.d.). In Wikipedia. Retrieved May 21, 2023, from https://zh.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E6%97%A0%E4%B8%BA_(%E9%81%93%E5%AE%B6)
  14. Joe, C. (2015, October 30). Heaven Gaia Xiong Ying Spring/Summer 2016 - Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week China. Male Fashion Trends. Retrieved May 20, 2022, from https://www.malefashiontrends.com.mx/2015/10/heaven-gaia-xiong-ying-spring-summer-2016.html
  15. Kim, Y., & Lee, Y. (2015). The design characteristics of prep-hop fashion, Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 65(4), 61-75. doi:10.7233/jksc.2015.65.4.061
  16. Kim, Y. H., & Han, S. W. (2011). The esthetic form and the representation element of the motif of Chinoiserie. Journal of Korea Design Forum, (33), 111-120.
  17. Ku. (2018, January 30). Ziggy Chen设计师陈翔: 好好做衣服的低调匠人 [Ziggy Chen designer Chen Xiang: A low-key craftsman who makes clothes well]. . Retrieved January 30, 2018, from http://www.kuxs.com/Men/20180130/1092300.html
  18. Lane Crawford. (n.d.). Ziggy Chen. Retrieved August 16, 2024, from https://www.lanecrawford.com.cn/brand/42800007/ziggy-chen/men/
  19. Li, S. N., & Dai, H. (2019). "Chinoiserie" and "Neo-Chinese style" in fashion design. Industrial Design, (2), 120-121.
  20. Liu, F. (2012). 浅析"新中式"服装设计理念的应用 [Analyse the application of the new Chinese style clothing design concept]. 剑南文学(经典教苑) (04), 151.
  21. Liu, F. (2013). "新中式"服装设计研究 [A study on the costume design of "New-Chinese style"]. Unpublished master's thesis, Qingdao University, Qingdao, China.
  22. Liu, Q. (2015). The inheritance and application of new Chinese jewelry design from Chinese traditional culture. Design, (3), 100-101.
  23. Liu, X. L. (2018). 新中式"服装设计理念的应用研究 [The inheritance and application of new Chinese jewelry design from Chinese traditional culture]. 大观(论坛), (9), 58-59.
  24. Long, J. (2009). The encounter between tradition and modernity: On "New Chinese Style" landscape design. Landscape Architecture Academic Journal, (01), 42-45.
  25. Missing Light. (2016, August 30). Ziggy Chen - S/S 2017. Retrieved May 20, 2023, from https://missing-light.blogspot.com/2016/08/ziggy-chen-ss-2017.html
  26. Nine Lives Cat. (2017, September 26). 民国男人穿什么?民国男性服饰图说 [What did men wear in the Republic of China? Illustrations of men's clothing in the Republic of China]. Zhuanlan.zhihu. Retrieved May 20, 2022, from https://zhuanlan.zhihu.com/p/29699132
  27. Official Ziggy Chen. (2012, July 24). Ziggy Chen S/S 13. Stealthprojekt. Retrieved July 8, 2022, from http://stealthprojekt.com/blog/stealthbrands/34.html
  28. Quan, Y., & Lee, D. (2015). Ideological root of Chinese design behind the Chinese elements and design thought of Neo-Chinese style. Journal of Communication Design, 52, 47-60.
  29. River Eleven. (2019, August 27). Ziggy Chen, 比山本耀司贵的中国设计师品牌 [Ziggy Chen, a more expensive Chinese designer brand than Yoshiyuki Yamamoto]. Sohu. Retrieved August 27, 2019, from https://www.sohu.com/a/434369479_514341?scm=10001.325_13-109000.0.10140.5_32&spm=smpc.channel_248.block3_308_NDdFbm_1_fd.1.1721745422683N6Rp2oP_324
  30. Shang Yiting. (2021, August 12). 2022春夏巴黎男装周:来自中国的时尚设计 [Spring and Summer 2022 Paris menswear week: Fashion design from China]. Sohu. Retrieved August 12, 2021, from https://www.sohu.com/a/482910439_120048 229
  31. Shanghai Textile Museum. (2023, May 17). 我国现代服装制式的一次变革--中山装的诞生 [A revolution in my country's modern clothing style: The birth of the Zhongshan suit]. Shkp. Retrieved May 17, 2023, from https://shkp.org.cn/content.html?type=lc&id=232236&tag=44427
  32. Sohu. (2018, July 18). Ziggy Chen A/W 2018 lookbook. Retrieved May 20, 2023, from https://www.sohu.com/a/241971486_500118
  33. Sohu. (2019, January 11). Ziggy Chen S/S 2019 lookbook. Retrieved May 20, 2023, from https://www.sohu.com/a/288273089_500118
  34. Sohu. (2021, January 25). Autumn/Winter 2021 lookbook. Retrieved May 20, 2023, from https://www.sohu.com/a/447913992_500118
  35. Stealth. (2013, June 26). Ziggy Chen S/S 2014. Stealthprojekt. Retrieved May 20, 2023, from http://stealthprojekt.com/blog/stealthbrands/1865.html
  36. Tedore. (n.d.). S/S 2012 // Decoster concept by Ziggy Chen. Retrieved March 4, 2022, from http://www.tedore.at/2012/03/ss-2012-decoster-concept-by-ziggy-chen.html
  37. Uj-ng. (n.d.). Ziggy Chen SS 21, a cultural collage of memories. Retrieved June 3, 2022, from https://uj-ng.com/blogs/seen-blog/ziggy-chen-ss21-a-cultural-collage-of-memories
  38. Visual Nantong. (2017, December 01). 民国时期南通时尚指南:如何穿衣打扮才最起范儿? [Nantong fashion guide during the Republic of China period: How to dress to look trendy?]. Sohu. Retrieved May 20, 2022, from https://www.sohu.com/a/207854899_100015313
  39. Vogue. (n.d.). Alexander Wang fall 2016 menswear. Retrieved May 20, 2022, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-menswear/alexander-wang/slideshow/collection#9
  40. Wang, Q. Y. (2021). Research on the application of "Chinese style" fashionable brand clothing design. Unpublished master's thesis, Changchun University of Technology, Changchun, China. 
  41. White Wolf Black Technology. (2021, April 25). Armani Prive 东方风情高定:竹之韵秀场, 水墨翠竹绿影光动 [Armani Prive oriental style couture: Bamboo charm show, ink and green bamboo, green shadows and light movement]. Sohu. Retrieved May 20, 2022, from https://www.sohu.com/a/462777873_121054658
  42. Xie, S. S. (2019). A study on New China style in contemporary fashion. Unpublished doctoral dissertation, Konkuk University, Seoul, Korea.
  43. Xin, W. J., & Lin, X. J. (2019). 美学思维与新中式服装触感设计初探 [A preliminary study on aesthetic thinking and the touch design of New Chinese fashion]. Art Education, (2), 203-204.
  44. Xu, T. (2015). 浅析慢时尚回归下的新中式服装 [A brief analysis of the New-Chinese style in the age of slow fashion]. Art Science and Technology, (8), 98.
  45. Yang, B., & Chang, J. Y. (2021). A study on the theoretical framework of culture-oriented "New Chinese Style" fashion design. The Journal of Korean Society of Design Culture, 27(3), 327-340. doi:10.18208/ksdc.2021.27.3.327
  46. Yang, J. (2016). The flexible inheritance of traditional Chinese costume culture. A case study of "New Chinese-style outfits". International Conference on Arts, Design and Contemporary Education, 747-750. doi:10.2991/icadce-16.2016.180
  47. Yu, J., & Liu, M. (2022). 对"新国风"的文化审思 [Cultural reflection on the new national style. Party building and ideological education in schools]. The Party Building and Ideological Education in Schools, (16), 90-92.
  48. Yu, W. H. (2010). New Chinese wind of the western fashion. Silk, (11), 32-35.
  49. Zhang, Y. (2014). 民国男性服饰文化研究 [The study of men's clothing culture in the republic of China]. Unpublished doctoral dissertation, Shanghai Theatre Academy, Shanghai, China.
  50. Zhongzhi. (2019, March 28). 2018中国留学生统计 [2018 China overseas student statistics]. Sohu. Retrieved March 28, 2019, from www.sohu.com/a/304455732_99935204
  51. Zhuang, L., Zhang, Y., & Zhou, S. (2017). "新中式" 女装的形制与结构探析 [A study on the form and structure of 'new-chinese style' women's clothing]. Liaoning Tussah Silk, (3), 14-15.
  52. Zhuang, X., & Zhang, Y. (2016). 新中式:风格,理念,抑或主义?: 关于新中式的文献综述 [New-Chinese style: Style, ideology, or doctrine. A review of New-Chinese style literature]. 南方论刊, (3), 82-85.
  53. Ziggychen. (2022, January 22). Ziggy Chen autumn/winter 2022 collection. Weixin Official Accounts Platform. Retrieved May 20, 2023, from https://mp.weixin.qq.com/s/hvwWuSx54Wy8vtiGEONeIA
  54. Ziggy Chen. (n.d.). Blending A/W 2020. Retrieved May 20, 2023, from https://ziggychen.com/pages/blending-a-w-2020