한국의류산업학회지 (Fashion & Textile Research Journal)

  • 제26권2호
  • /
  • Pages.151-165
  • /
  • 2024
  • /
  • 1229-2060(pISSN)
  • /
  • 2287-5743(eISSN)
한국의류산업학회 (The Society of Fashion and Textile Industry)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

패션에서의 패러디 변화양상에 관한 연구

A Study on the Patterns of Parody Change in Fashion

  • 정정희 (성균관대학교 의상학과)
  • Jung-hee Jung (Dept. of Clothing & Textile, Sungkyunkwan University)
  • 투고 : 2023.11.24
  • 심사 : 2024.03.06
  • 발행 : 2024.04.29
PDF 다운로드
⟨ 이전 논문 다음 논문 ⟩

초록

This study examines the creation method using parody in fashion, which has changed from the first half of the 20th century to the present day, by considering the creation method expressed in art. A literature review and case studies were conducted for this research method. The scope of this case study was to examine designer works that attempted an artistic approach, focusing on contemporary fashion in the 20th century to the present. First, it was found that parody, as a creative method in fashion, creates works that reflect designers' new perspectives or perspectives in the form of variations that vary from time to time. Second, the forms of variation that vary from time to time demonstrate Poire's imitation technique in the modernist era. Imitation and critical parody techniques were used in the postmodern era. In the post-contemporary era, the extended parody-type appropriation and re-transmission techniques were used. Third, when comparing creation techniques using parody in art and fashion by period, it was found that the fashion technique, which followed the creation technique in art, adopted the same method as the art technique, as it approached recently.

키워드

참고문헌

  1. Alexander McQueen Spring Summer 2001 VOSS. (n. d.). Taylahorn.wixsite. Retrieved June 4, 2023, from https://taylahorn.wixsite.com/thefrontrow/alexander-mcqueen
  2. Adorno, T., Livingstone, R., & Zizek, S. (2009). In search of wagner. London.New York: Verso Books.
  3. Barthes, R. (1968). The death of the author. New York: Hill and Wang.
  4. Barret, T. (2017). Making art-form & meaning (S. G. Kim., & Y. B. Yun, Trans.). Paju: Minumsa. (Original work published 2011)
  5. Baucheron, E., & Routex, D., (2014). The museum of scandals-art that shocked the world (S. Y. Park, Trans.). Seoul: Sigma Books. (Original work published 2013)
  6. Bennington, G. (1989). Postmodernism: ICA documents. London: Free Association Books.
  7. Berger, J. (2013). Ways of seeing (M. Choi, Trans.). Paju: Youlhawadang. (Original work published 1971)
  8. Brand, J., & Teunissen, J. (2010). Fashion and imagination-about clothes and art. Arnhem: ArtEZ Press.
  9. Bruggeman, D. (2017). Vlisco: made in Holland, adorned in west Africa, (re)appropriated as Dutch design. Journal of Fashion, Style, and Popular Culture, 4(2), 197-214. doi:10.1386/fspc.4.2.197_1
  10. Chartier, R. (1982). Lectures et lecteurs dans la France d'Ancien Reime. Paris: Seuil.
  11. Chartier, R. (1995). Forms and meanings: texts, performances, and audiences from codex to computer. United States of America: University of Pennsylvania Press.
  12. Childs, P., & Williams, P. (2004). An introduction to post-colonial theory 325 (M. H. Kim, Trans.). Seoul: Moonye. (Original work published 1997)
  13. Cho, M. H. (1998). A study on Jean-Charles de Castelbajac. Journal of Fashion Business, 2(3), 73-86.
  14. Choi, D. Y. (2006). (A) study of plastic photo that used abnormally the changes object which appeared with a Joel Peter Witkin work-about the abnormality and insanity's main concept. [Master's thesis, Hongik University]. Riss, https://www.riss.kr/link?id=T10304077
  15. Choi, K. C. (2010). A study on the trend of postmodern cultures: aspects of appropriation appearing at sculptures. [Doctoral dissertation, Wonkwang University]. Riss, https://www.riss.kr/link?id=T12160052
  16. Davis, D. (1980). Post-Everything. Art in America 68(2), 14.
  17. Duggan, G. G. (2001). The greatest show on earth: a look at contemporary fashion shows and their relationship to performance art. Fashion Theory, 5(3), 243-270. doi:10.2752/136270401778960883
  18. Duncan-Hall, N., & Steele, V. (2022). Art X fashion: Fashion inspired by art. New York: Rizzoli International Publications.
  19. Evans, C. (2003). Fashion at the edge: Spectacle, modernity, and deathliness. London: Yale University Press.
  20. Foucault, M. (1983). This is not a pipe(Ceci n'est pas une pipe). Berkeley.Los Angeles.London: University of California Press.
  21. Gill, A. (1998). Deconstruction fashion: The making of unfinished, decomposing and re-assembled clothes. Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture, 2(1), 25-49. doi:10.2752/136270498779754489
  22. Go, H. J. (1994). (A) study on parody expressed in modern fashion. [Master's thesis, University of Seoul]. Riss, https://www.riss.kr/link?id=T34234
  23. Go, H. J., & Kim, M. J. (1994). (A) study on parody expressed in modern fashion. The Korean Society of Costume, 25, 249-286.
  24. Ham, Y. S. (2003). Research reports - A study on societal connotation of the digital parody and its forecast. Journal of the Korean Society of Design Culture, 9(4), 1-12.
  25. Han, S. J. (2014). A study on the image appropriation in costume designs. The Journal of the Korean Society of Knit Design, 12(2), 1-10. doi:10.35226/kskd.2014.12.2.1
  26. Hollander, A. (1993). Seeing through clothes. Berkeley: University of California Press.
  27. Hong, B. S., Seok, H. J., & Lee, E. J. (2011). A qualitative study on design copying of fashion industry. The Korean Fashion and Textile Research Journal, 13(4), 560-571. doi:10.5805/KSCI.2011.13.4.560
  28. Hutcheon, L. (1998). A theory of parody: the teachings of twentieth-century art forms (S. G. Kim., & Y. B. Yun, Trans.). Seoul: Moonye. (Original work published 1984)
  29. Jameson, F. (2022). Postmodernism, or, the Cultural Logic of Late Capitalism. Duke University Press. (K. K. Im, Trans.). Seoul: Moonji Publishing. (Original work published 1991)
  30. Jeong, B. K. (1987). Trends in contemporary art. Seoul: Minumsa.
  31. Jin, K. O., & Park, M. N. (2001). The meaning of pastiche in the postmodern fashion. The Korean Society of Costume, 50(5), 143-157.
  32. Jin, K. O. (2001). The formativeness of parody adapted modern fashion design. [Doctoral dissertation, Kyung Hee University]. Riss, https://www.riss.kr/link?id=T8644791
  33. Jin, K. O. (1997). Modern fashion design and 'object'. Archives of Design Research, 22, 521-526.
  34. Jin, W. Y. (2002). What is avant-garde?. Seoul: Minumsa.
  35. Jung, H. K. (2005). A conceptional study on the difference between imitation advertisements and parody Advertisements. Bulletin of Korean Society of Basic Design &Art, 6(4), 99-109.
  36. Jung, J. H. (2022). Appropriation of letter in critical fashion-focusing on fashion design examples after the year 2000. The Korean Fashion and Textile Research Journal, 24(5), 530-544. doi:10.5805/SFTI.2022.24.5.530
  37. Jung, J. H., & Yim, E. H. (2021). Appropriation of objects in critical fashion. Journal of the Korea Fashion & Costume Design Association, 23(1), 1-18. doi:10.30751/kfcda.2021.23.1.1
  38. Kaplan, L. M. (1994). Parody and the fair use defense to copyright infringement: Appropriate purpose and object of humor. Ariz St. L.J. 26, 857- 859.
  39. Kim, H. J. (1999). A study on Roger Chartier's cultural history: focusing on the concept of 'appropriation'. [Master's thesis, Sungkyunkwan University]. Riss, https://www.riss.kr/link?id=T10234600
  40. Kim, J. E., & Park, J. H. (2021). Cultural Appropriation and Pursuit of the Value of Cultural Diversity in Contemporary Fashion. Journal Korea Society of Visual Design Forum, 26(2), 191-204.
  41. Kim, J. H. (2005). The art of fashion. Paju: Artbooks.
  42. Kim, K. J. (2001). Our art in 21 theme. Seoul: Daleunsesang.
  43. Kim, O. D. (1992). Postmodernism and art. Goyang: CHUNG HA.
  44. Kim, S. G. (2003). (An) analysis of Sherrie Levine's appropriation works. [Master's thesis, Hongik University]. Riss, https://www.riss.kr/link?id=T9142671
  45. Kim, S. W., Jeon, J. C., & Kim, Y. I. (2005). A semiological analysis on the relationship between popular music and fashion style exposed in Subculture. Archives of Design Research, 59, 233-244.
  46. Kim, S. Y. (2011). Interchange with art contained in the works of Yves Saint Laurent. The Research Journal of the Costume culture, 19(2), 283-295.
  47. Knabb, K. (2006). Situationist International anthology: revised and expanded edition. Berkeley: Bureau of Public Secrets.
  48. Lee, E. K. (2015). A study on parodies in the postmodern era: with a focus on the author's works. [Master's thesis, Hongik University]. Riss, https://www.riss.kr/link?id=T13863582
  49. Lee, E. Y. (2002). Creative method of post-modernism expressed in modern fashion. Korean Journal of Human Ecology, 11(3), 287-299.
  50. Lee, H. J. (2001). A study on the meaning of appropriation inherited in the modern costumes. The Korean Society of Costume, 51(4), 141-163.
  51. Lee, S. J. (2010). Parody and copyright. Journal of Industrial Property, 31, 149-193.
  52. Lee, S. L. (2019). Cultural appropriation in contemporary fashion. Archives of Design Research, 32(2), 137-150. doi:10.15187/adr.2019.05.32.2.137
  53. Lee, Y. J. (1998). A study on the phenomenon of parody found in postmodern fashion. [Master's thesis, Sejong University]. Riss, https://www.riss.kr/link?id=T4672681
  54. Lee, Y. S., & Yim, E. H. (2020). Cultural appropriation and representation in the contemporary fashion industry. The Korean Society of Costume, 70(4), 54-64. doi:10.7233/jksc.2020.70.4.054
  55. Lefebvre, H. (2005). La vie quotidienne dans le monde moderne (J. J. Park, Trans.). Seoul: Guiparang. (Original work published 1968)
  56. Lim, J. Y. (2021). A study on fashion design expressing the circulation image of M.C. Escher. [Master's thesis, Kookmin University]. Riss, https://www.riss.kr/link?id=T15923097
  57. Lim, K. J. (2018, June 15). Answer the requests you to anticipate the future of the show. Chungwoo. Retrieved June 7, 2019, from http://chungwoo.egloos.com/4155789
  58. Liu, S. (2018). The appropriation of American art and folk costume in modern fashion. [Master's thesis, Pusan National University]. Riss, https://www.riss.kr/link?id=T14938459
  59. Martin, R. (1987). Fashion & surrealism. New York: Thames Hudson.
  60. Muller, F. (2000). Art & fashion. London: Thames & Hudson.
  61. Nelson, R. S., Schiff, R., & Summers, D. (2016). Critical terms for art history (B. H. Sin et al., Trans.). Seoul: Artbooks. (Original work published 1981)
  62. 'Off-white, Seeing Things, 2017 F/W.' (n. d.). Off-white c/o collections. Retrieved July 28, 2019, from https://www.off---white.com/en/KR/collections/mensfw17#3c1
  63. Park, M. H. (2000). A study on the borrowings of the historic costume. Journal of Human Environment and Art, 23, 151-164.
  64. Rose, M. (1979). Parody/meta-fiction: an analysis of parody as a critical mirror to the writing and reception of fiction. London: Croom Helm.
  65. Sadaba, T., Kalbaska, N., Cominelli, F., Cantoni, L., & Puig, M. T. (2021). Fashion Communication-Proceedings of the FACTUM 21 Conference, Pamplona, Spain, 2021. New York: Springer International Publishing.
  66. Seo, S. R. (1992). Postmodern parodies and borrowed plagiarism. Monthlyart, 3, 92-116.
  67. Shin, J. I. (2008). A study on the pastiche in contemporary fashion design works. [Master's thesis, Hongik University]. Riss, https://www.riss.kr/link?id=T11426998
  68. Smelik, A. (2017). Delft blue to denim blue: contemporary Dutch fashion. London.New York: Bloomsbury Publishing.
  69. Song, H. J., & Jeong, E. T. (2015). (A) study on the utilizing parody and pastiche in contemporary art works. International Conference on Convergence Technology, 6(6), 201-211. doi:10.15207/JKCS.2015.6.6.201
  70. Stolinitz, J. (1991). Aesthetics and philosophy of art criticism (B. N. Oh, Trans.). Seoul: Theorie und Praxis. (Original work published 1960)
  71. Tatakiewicz, W. (1999). History of six ideas: an essay in aesthetics (H. J. Son, Trans.). Seoul: Misul Munhwa. (Original work published 1980)
  72. Tucker, A. (2003). Fashion-A crash course (E. O. Kim, Trans.). Seoul: Wisdomhouse. (Original work published 2000)
  73. Um, S. H., & Kim, M. S. (2000). Paradigm of modern dress-Focusing on the characteristics of avant-garde. Seoul: Gyeongchunsa.
  74. 'Wheat Fields and Wild Flowers: Viktor & Rolf's Haute Couture S/S 2015.' (2015, Feb 2). Irenebrination.typepad. Retrieved May 1, 2023, from https://irenebrination.typepad.com/irenebrination_notes_on_a/2015/02/viktor-rolf-hc-ss-15.html
  75. Wolf, R., & Schlacher, T. (1999). Millenium mode. New York: Rizzoli.
  76. Yang, H. M., & Kim, M. J. (2000). Pastiche in the late capitalism fashion. The Korean Society of Costume, 50(1), 69-84.
  77. Yang, L. N., & Kim, M. S. (1996). A study on parody expressed in modern fashion. Journal of Natural Sciences Pai Chai University, 8(2), 237-255.
  78. Ye, M. H., & Yim, E. H. (2016). Pastiche of art-works in fashion advertising. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 40(6), 1072-1084. doi:10.5850/JKSCT.2016.40.6.1072
  79. Yim, E. H. (2009). Pastiche in fashion by bodily deformation. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 33(4), 511-518.
  80. Yim, E. H. (2011). Pastiche of western traditional costume in Japanese avant-garde fashion. The Research Journal of the Costume culture, 19(5), 970-980. doi:10.29049/rjcc.2011.19.5.970
  81. Yoon, W. H. (2007). A study on methodology and artists of postmodern art. Inmunhaji(The Journal of Humanities), 34, 213-235.
  82. Yu, G. H. (2000, Feb 8). History of western art(展). Retrieved June 5, 2023, from https://neolook.com/archives/20000208a
  83. Yun, J. Y. (2008). Iconological analysis on the fashion of Vivienne Westwood, Issey Miyake and Hussein Chalayan. [Doctoral dissertation, University of Seoul]. Riss, https://www.riss.kr/link?id=T11455907
  84. Yvonne, D. (1986). Poiret. Paris: Regard.