DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

Future-oriented Characteristics Examined through the Identity and Modernity of Sonia Delaunay's Work

  • Keumhee Lee (Dept. of Fashion Design & Marketing, Seoul Women's University)
  • Received : 2023.11.15
  • Accepted : 2023.12.26
  • Published : 2023.12.30

Abstract

The purpose of this study is to derive the future-oriented characteristics Sonia Delaunay presented at the time based on the identity and modernity shown in her works and diverse activity. The scope of study spans from 1907 to the start of World War II and includes both applied and fine arts, with a focus on textiles and fashion. The research method is a literary study that includes old documents, exhibition booklets, and explanations from museum curators. The visual materials are actual works observed at exhibitions and digital images of various exhibitions. As a result of the research, she was a practitioner who expressed her identity in marriage, artwork, textiles, and fashion. In order to embody her design and express modernity, she showed geometric and modern motifs and she incorporated a sense of bright color and modernized light into her work by following the principle of simultaneous contrast in color. Additionally, she applied Hungarian embroidery techniques to simple materials and created geometric abstraction with her simultaneous colors, which contributed to both originality and the mass production of textile design. The future-oriented characteristics she presented are the dynamism of modern rhythm, the expansion of convergence and collaboration, the innovation of new production and exhibition, the media of consumer society, and the femininity of modern life. She recognized the mass consumer society and mass production of the early 20th century and actively utilized various media and genres to evoke a dynamic sense necessary for modern life and presented a design to be seen as a modern woman.

Keywords

Acknowledgement

This work was supported by a research grant from Seoul Women's University(2023-0086)

References

  1. Albritton, A. (2005). She has a body on her dress: Sonia Delaunay-Terk's first simultaneous dress, 1913. Dress, 32(1), 3-13. doi:10.1179/036121105805253062 
  2. Arscott, C., & Scott, K. (Eds.). (2000). Manifestations of Venus. New York: Manchester University Press. 
  3. Baron, S., & Damase, J. (1995). Sonia Delaunay: the life of an artist. London: Thames & Hudson. 
  4. Bellow, J. (2009). Fashioning Cleopatre: Sonia Delaunay's new woman. Art Journal, 68(2), 6-25. Retrieved from http://www.jstor.org/stable/25676480  https://doi.org/10.1080/00043249.2009.10791343
  5. Bingham. J. (2015, April 9). We will go right up to the sun. Tate Etc.. Retrieved June 22, 2023, from https://www.tate.org.uk/tate-etc/issue-33-spring-2015/we-will-go-right-sun 
  6. Carelli, F.(2016). Sonia Delaunay: A life in the avant-garde. London Journal of Primary Care, 8(4), 72-74. doi:10.1080/17571472.2016.1204009 
  7. Castro. J. (2011). Color moves: art & fashion by Sonia Delaunay. Woman's Art Journal 32/2, 62-63, 
  8. Castro, J. (2015). Sonia Delaunay by Anne Montfort and Jean-Claude Marcade. Woman's Art Journal, 36(2), 45-48. 
  9. Coat, Scarf, Clutch, Shoes. (1924-1925). [Installation]. spectacles-selection. Retrieved September 7, 2023, from https://www.spectacles-selection.comarchives/expositions/fiche_expo_S/sonia-delaunay-V/H-manteau-et-accessoires-a.jpg 
  10. Cooke, L. (2022, June 1). Mighty Brave. Artforum. Retrieved May 17, 2023, from https://www.artforum.com/features/lynne-cooke-on-the-art-of-sonia-delaunay-251855/ 
  11. Cover of British Vogue. (1925). [Illustration]. wikiart. Retrieved May 3, 2023, from https://uploads5.wikiart.org/images/sonia-delaunay/vogue-cover.jpg!PinterestSmall.jpg 
  12. Cover of L'Amour de l'art. (1927). [Print]. gallica. Retrieved September 7, 2023, from https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k42262130.r=Sonia%20Delaunay%20Mode?rk=21459;2 
  13. Delaunay and Her Matching Decorated Citroen B12, (1925). [Picture]. phaidon. Retrieved September 7, 2023, from https://www.phaidon.com/resource/two-models-wearing-fur-coats-with-a-car.jpg 
  14. Delaunay, S. (1908). Yellow Nude [Painting]. museedartsdenantes. Retrieved May 17, 2023, from https://museedartsdenantes.nantesmetropole.fr/es/resultats-navigart.html?jcrRedirectTo=%2Fcms%2Frender%2Flive%2Fes%2Fsites%2Fmuseedarts%2Fresultats-navigart.html&keywords=Sonia+Delaunay.+Nu+Jaune%2C+1908 
  15. Delaunay, S. (1913). Le Bal Bullier [Painting]. wikiart. Retrieved May 21, 2023, from https://www.wikiart.org/en/sonia-delaunay/the-ball 
  16. Delaunay, S. (1916). Self-Portrait [Painting]. spectacles-selection. Retrieved May 21, 2023, from https://www.spectacles-selection.com/archives/expositions/fiche_expoS/sonia-delaunay-V/E-couverture-catalogue-autoportrait-a.jpg_ 
  17. Elizabeth, M. (1986). Sonia Delaunay art into fashion. New York: George Braziller Inc. 
  18. Embroidery of Foliage. (1909). [Fabric]. spectacles-selection. Retrieved June 7, 2023, from https://www.spectacles-selection.com/archives/expositions/fiche_expo_S/sonia-delaunay-V/C-feuille-a.jpg 
  19. Ferreira, M.(2020). Colour, movement and modernity in Sonia Delaunay's (1926) fashion film. Journal of Visual Culture, 19(3), 391-404. Retrieved from https://doi.org/10.1177/147041292096599 
  20. Gallica. (2020 a). Adam : revue des modes masculines en France et a l'etranger [Adam: review of men's fashions in France and abroad]. Retrieved October 9, 2023, from https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/ bpt6k4225589v/f6.image.r=Sonia%20Delaunay?rk=4034354;4 
  21. Gallica. (2008). Anecdotiques / Guillaume ApollinaireAmour [Anecdotal / Guillaume Apollinaire]. Retrieved June 2, 2023, from https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k1132933/f131.item.r=Sonia%20Delaunay 
  22. Gallica. (2011 a). Art et decoration [Art and decoration]. Retrieved October 12, 2023, from https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k6139554b/f152.item.r=Sonia%20Delaunay.zoom 
  23. Gallica. (2011 b). La Femme de France [The Woman of France]. Retrieved September 12, 2023, from https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k55176689/f23.image.r=sonia%20Delaunay?rk=1480694;0 
  24. Gallica. (2020 b). L'Amour de l'art [The Love of Art]. Retrieved October 2, 2023, from https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k42262130/f110.image.r=Sonia%20Delaunay%20Mode?rk=193134;0 
  25. Gallica. (2018 a). Paris Times Retrieved October 1, 2023, from https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k4579490h/f7.item.r=sonia%20Delaunay%20mode 
  26. Gallica. (2018 b). Paris Times Retrieved October 1, 2023, from https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k4579497d/f7.image.r=Sonia%20Delaunay 
  27. Gallica. (2018 c). Paris Times Retrieved October 1, 2023, from https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k4582028w/f3.item.r=sonia%20Delaunay%20mode 
  28. Gallica. (2013). Vogue [Vogue]. Retrieved October 2, 2023 from https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k65382257/f25.item.r=Sonia%20Delaunay%20Mode 
  29. Gronberg, T. (2002). Sonia Delaunay: Fashioning the modern woman. Women: A Cultural Review, 13(3), 272-288. doi:10.1080/0957404022000026423 
  30. Hicks, S. (2015, June 8). The multi-talented Delaunay. Tate Etc.. Retrived March 8, 2023, from https://www.tate.org.uk/tate-etc/issue-34-summer-2015/multi-talented-delaunay 
  31. Jamie, K. (2015, Mar 27) Sonia Delaunay: the avant-garde queen of loud, wearable art. The Guardian. Retrieved March 3, 2023, from https://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2015/mar/27/sonia-delaunay-avant-garde-queen-art-fashion-vibrant-tate-modern 
  32. Julio, M. (1999). Sonia Delaunay. Shalvi/Hyman Encyclopedia of Jewish Women, Retrieved June 17, 2023, from https://jwa.org/encyclopedia/article/delaunay-sonia 
  33. Krull. G. (1925). artblart. Retrieved from https://artblart.files.wordpress.com/2015/07/sonia-delaunay-in-her-studio-at-boulevard-malesherbes-web.jpg 
  34. Lee, K. (2019). 소비문화와 이국취미의 색채 [Consumer Culture and Color in Exotism]. Seoul: Kyungchoonsa. 
  35. Lee S. (1993). A study on Soina Delaunay's paintings and fashion. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, Vol.20 137-150. 
  36. Majer, M. (2013). Color moves art and fashion by Sonia Delaunay. Design and Culture, 5(1), 119-123.  https://doi.org/10.2752/175470813X13491105785749
  37. Mann, C. (1996). Paris Between the Wars. New York: Vendome Press. 
  38. Montfort, A., & Godefroy, C. (Eds.). (2015). Sonia Delaunay. London: Tate publishing. 
  39. Nathan. E. (n.d.). Sonia Delaunay: Reaping What She Sews. (n.d.). artnet. Retrieved June 17, 2023, from from http://www.artnet.com/magazineus/reviews/nathan/sonia-delaunay-cooper-hewitt3-24-11.asp 
  40. New and Pretty Embroidery for Coats. (1924). [Print]. gallica. Retrieved September 7, 2023, from https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k65382257/f25.item.r=Sonia%20Delaunay%20Mode 
  41. Noland, C. (1999). Poetry at stake: lyric aesthetics and the chaiienge of technology. New Jersey: Princeton University Press. 
  42. Orphic. (n.d.). Online Etymology Dictionary. Retrieved October 11, 2023, from https://www.etymonline.com/search?q=Orphism&lc=kr 
  43. Replication of Boutique Simultane. (2011). [Installation]. artnet. Retrieved September 7, 2023, from http://www.artnet.com/magazineus/reviews/nathan/sonia-delaunay-cooper-hewitt3-24-11_detail.asp?picnum=6 
  44. Seidner, D. (1982, Jan 1). Sonia Delaunay by David Seidner. BOMB. Retrieved June 18, 2023, from https://bombmagazine.org/articles/sonia-delaunay/ 
  45. Sichel, K. (1999). Germaine Krull: Photographer of Modernity. Cambridge: Massachusetts: MIT Press. 
  46. Simultaneous Dresses. (n.d.). Museo Nacional Thyssen-Bornemisza. Retrieved June 17, 2023, from https://www.museothyssen.org/en/collection/artists/delaunay-sonia/simultaneous-dresses-three-women-formscolours 
  47. "Simultaneous Fabric' Pajamas. (1927). [Print]. gallica. Retrieved October 11, 2023, from https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k4225589v/f6.image.r=Sonia%20Delaunay?rk=4034354;4 
  48. Slevin, T. (2013). Sonia Delaunay's robe simultanee: modernity, fashion, and transmediality. Fashion Theory, 17(1), 27-54. 
  49. Sonia Delaunay at Tate Modern. (2015, April 15). HALI. Retrieved June 17, 2023, from https://hali.com/news/sonia-delaunay-at-tate-modern/ 
  50. Sonia Delaunay Les couleurs de l'abstraction. (2015, January 19). Letter. Retrieved May 17, 2023, from https://www.spectacles-selection.com/archives/expositions/fiche_expo_S/sonia-delaunay 
  51. Sonia Delaunay-queen of the twentieth-century avant-garde. (n.d.). we are Ukraine. Retrieved June 07, 2023, from https://www.weareukraine.info/sonia-delaunay-queen-of-the-twentieth-century-avant-garde/ 
  52. Sonia Delaunay's Textiles. (1927). [Print]. gallica. Retrieved September 15, 2023, from https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k6139554b/f152.item.r=Sonia%20Delaunay.zoom 
  53. Sonia Delaunay: the avant-garde queen of loud, wearable art. (2015). The Guardian. Retrieved March 3, 2023, from https://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2015/mar/27/sonia-delaunay-avant-garde-queen-art-fashion-vibrant-tate-modern 
  54. Steel, V. (1991). Women of Fashion. New York: Rizzoli. 
  55. Stern, R. (1992). Gegen den Strich. Kleider von Kunstlern 1900-1940 [Against the grain. Dresses of artists 1900-1940]. Bern : Benteli 
  56. Timmer, P., & Leeuw-de, M. (2011) Color moves: art and fashion by Sonia Delaunay. New York: Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum. 
  57. Tunic & Beach Shorts, Beach Set, Bathing Tunic. (1928). [Installation]. spectacles-selection. Retrieved September 15, 2023, from https://www.spectacles-selection.com/archives/expositions/fiche_expo_S/sonia-delaunay-V/H-ensembles-plage-a.jpg 
  58. Two Ladies in Woven Coats Designed by Sonia Delaunay. (c.1925). [Photograph]. i.pinimg. Retrieved September 15, 2023, from https://i.pinimg.com/564x/b3/20/80/b320802ee8df2572ed1ab5c93d852b07.jpg