DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

Taoist Aesthetics Reflected in Ma Ke's Works

Ma Ke(馬可)의 작업에 반영된 도가미학 사상

  • Hongyan, Li (Dept. of Fashion Design, Sungkynkwan University) ;
  • Eunhyuk, Yim (Dept. of Fashion Design, Sungkynkwan University)
  • Received : 2022.04.04
  • Accepted : 2022.12.30
  • Published : 2022.12.31

Abstract

The rapid development of the fashion industry in contemporary society has also caused various problems such as environmental pollution, material excess, and spiritual poverty. Accordingly, traditional Chinese Taoist aesthetics can solve the spiritual poverty that people are facing today, and the spiritual pursuit of returning to innocence. This study focuses on the works of first generation Chinese designer Ma Ke as an example to discuss the embodiment and application of Taoist aesthetics. The results are as follows: First, Ma Ke's works emphasize the value of handicraft through traditional handcrafting and natural fibers, which reflect the beauty of simplicity and the non-action of Taoist aesthetics. Second, the works acknowledge nature by using natural materials and retaining their original appearance, which embodies Taoist aesthetics of the beauty in non-action and living in harmony with nature. Third, the collections reflect a critical attitude toward the fashion industry and consumer culture by rethinking consumerism and advocating environmental protection, thus propagating the beauty in simplicity and the harmonious life with nature in Taoism aesthetics. In conclusion, Ma Ke's designs incorporating sustainability and handicraft exhibit the core features of Taoist aesthetics, including the beauty in simplicity, non-action, and living in harmony with nature while exploring the relationship between modernity and tradition, man and nature, and handicraft and fashion. This research can contribute to understanding Ma Ke's works in promoting critical thinking about the fashion industry through Taoist aesthetics.

Keywords

References

  1. Amanda, S. (2021). Storytelling in luxury fashion: brands, visual cultures, and technologies(pp. 157-173). Oxon, UK: Routledge.
  2. Calvin, H. (2021). The art of useless - Fashion, media, and consumer culture in contemporary China. New York: Columbia University Press.
  3. Chen, H. L., & Burns, L. D. (2006). Environmental analysis of textile products. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 24(3), 248-261. doi:10.1177/0887302X06293065
  4. Chung, S. J., & Yim, E. H. (2020). Fashion activism for sustainability on social media. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 28(6), 815-829. doi:10.29049/rjcc.2020.28.6.815
  5. Clark, H. (2009). Slow fashion-an oxymoron or a promise for the future...?. Fashion Theory, 12(4), 427-46. doi:10.2752/175174108X346922
  6. 'Ma Ke's 'Useless' Paris Haute Couture week launch'. (2008, July 11). Chinese Textile Economic Information. Retrieved December 25. 2020. from http://news.ctei.cn/fashion/lxs/200807/t20080711_792700.htm
  7. 'Dadawa Concert style'. (2020, April 6). 23岁获业界"奥斯卡",中国首个参加巴黎时装周的天才设计师 [Won the "Oscar" in the industry at the age of 23, the first talented designer in China to participate in Paris fashion week]. Sina. Retrieved December 25. 2022. from http://k.sina.com.cn/article_7298741350_1b309f46602000pg2x.html
  8. Elkington, J. (2002). Cannibals with forks: The triple bottom line of 21st century business(Reprint). Oxford: Capstone.. 
  9. Elodie. (2016). 专访彭丽媛服装设计师, 马可:我要做真正的衣服 [Interview with Peng Liyuan fashion designer, Ma Ke: I want to make real clothes]. Luxury-theme. Retrieved November 30, 2020, from https://www.luxury-theme.com/article/detail/id/897.html
  10. Entwistle, J. (2015). The fashioned body - Fashion, dress & modern social theory(2nd ed.). Cambridge: Polity Press.
  11. 'Ma Ke first talks about designing clothes for Peng Liyuan'. (2013, March 29). Guangzhou Daily. Retrieved November 1, 2021, from https://www.yicai.com/news/2590680.html
  12. Guiot, D., & Roux, D. (2010). A second-hand shoppers' motivation scale - Antecedents, consequences, and implications for retailers. In Journal of Retailing, 86(4), 355-371. doi:10.1016/j.jretai.2010.08.002
  13. Han, C. S. (2016). The Taoist idea of the usefulness of uselessness (無用之用) in Heidegger's philosophy. Journal of Philosophical Ideas, 59, 191-219. doi:10.15750/chss..59.201602.007
  14. He, L. (2014. September 17), 無用之用:马可的设计唤醒了谁 [Uselessness: who has been awakened by Marco's design]. Textile Apparel Weekly. Retrieved August 10, 2021, from http://www.taweekly.com/xhdt/201409/t20140917_1823687.html
  15. He, X. (2015. March 27). The craftsmen in Ma Ke's studio are winding the yarn. Life week. Retrieved August 10, 2021, from http://www.lifeweek.com.cn/2015/0327/45862.shtml
  16. Hong, S. (2005). Eastern philosophy and postmoderne. Seoul: Yemoon.
  17. Jochen, S. (2017). Green fashion retail [electronic resource]. Singapore: Springer
  18. Joy, A., Sherry, J. F., Jr., Venkatesh, A., Wang, J., & Chan, R. (2012). Fast fashion, sustainability, and the ethical appeal of luxury brands. Fashion Theory, 16(3), 273-295. doi:10.2752/175174112X13340749707123
  19. Jung, H. J., & Kan, H. S. (2019). Taoistic fashion aesthetics in Art Deco fashion. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 69(1), 127-140. doi:10.7233/jksc.2019.69.1.127
  20. Kimbaraseigo., & Min, B. S. (Eds) (2003). 동양의 마음과 그림 [Oriental heart and painting]. Seoul: Saemoonbook.
  21. Kozlowski, A., Searcy. C., & Bardecki, M. (2015). Corporate sustainability reporting in the apparel industry - An analysis of indicators disclosed. International Journal of Productivity and Performance Management, 64(3), 377-397. doi:10.1108/IJPPM10-2014-0152
  22. Lee, S. O. (2012). The aesthetics theories of Laozi and Zhuangzi - The reinterpretation of the contemporary aesthetics Theories. Journal of The Studies of Taoism and Culture, .37, 109-164.
  23. Li, C. Y. (2017). 论道家美学在现代室内设计中的应用 [The application of Taoist aesthetics in modern interior design]. Beauty & Times, 12, 70-72. doi:10.16129/j.cnki. mysds.2017.12.025
  24. Luxurious QingPin. (2008). Paris Haute Couture Week Palace Royal. Netease. Retrieved August 10, 2021, from http://lady.163.com/photo/0AT70026/1706_30.html
  25. Ma, K. (2018, November 29). 我对服装设计师身份的认识 [My knowledge of the identity of a fashion designer]. Sohu. Retrieved November 30, 2020, from https://www.sohu.com/a/278686356_659555
  26. Ma, S. J. (2022). The ecological aesthetics of the Taoist in Chang Ucchin's art. YANG-MING STUDIES, 64, 241-267. doi:10.17088/tksyms.2022..64.008
  27. Morgan, L. R., & Birtwistle, G. (2009). An investigation of young fashion consumers' disposal habits. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 33(2), 190-198. doi:10.1111/j.1470-6431.2009.00756.x
  28. Nagurney, A., & Yu. M. (2012). Sustainable fashion supply chain management under oligopolistic competition and brand differentiation. International Journal of Production Economics, 135(2), 532-540. doi:10.1016/j.ijpe.2011.02.015
  29. Qin terracotta. (2020, March 24). 一物Vol.10| 秦俑 [Qin terracotta]. China Silk Museum. Retrieved August 10, 2021, from https://www.chinasilkmuseum.com/gskt/info_319.aspx?itemid=27781
  30. Qiu, Y. S. (1992). 老子庄子妙语选 [Laozi and Zhuangzi Wonderful Words Selected]. Tianjin: Baihua Literature and Art Publishing House
  31. Segre Reinach, S. (2012) The identity of fashion in contemporary China and the new relationships with the West, Fashion Practice, 4(1). 57-70. doi:10.2752/175693812X13239580431306
  32. Sohu. (2017, April 25). 他们将衣服浸泡在死海两年,或是埋在土里自然腐烂..做衣服本身就是一门行为艺术 [They soak their clothes in the Dead Sea for two years, or bury them in the soil to rot naturally. Making clothes is a performance art in itself]. Sohu. Retrieved December 24, 2022, from https://www.sohu.com/a/136293966_500120
  33. The Bund. (2008, August 4). 奢侈的清贫 闯入巴黎马可的衣衫哲学 [Luxurious QingPin, Breaking into Paris Ma Ke's clothing philosophy]. The Bund. Retrieved November 1, 2021, from http://style.sina.com.cn/fashion/costume/2008-08-04/181918177.shtml
  34. Victoria and Albert Museum. (2008). Fashion in motion - Ma Ke Wuyong. Victoria and Albert Museum, London. Retrieved October 28, 2020, from https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/fashion-in-motionma-ke
  35. Wuyong Living space. (n. d.). Wuyong living space. Wuyong. Retrieved August 10, 2021, from http://www.wuyong.org/Default.aspx
  36. 'Xun Yi Wen Dao'. (2020, July 9). Douban. Retrieved December 25. 2022, from https://www.douban.com/group/topic/183769378/?type=rec&_i=17796295S73Q5q
  37. Yi, L. (2015). The study on the embodiment of Taoist Aesthetics thoughts in the works of Chinese ancient ceramics. The Journal of the Korean Society of Ceramic Art, 12(1), 85-112. doi:10.22991/ksca.2015.12.1.85
  38. Ye, M. H., & Yim, E. H. (2014). Art strategies of luxury fashion brand. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 38(2), 191-200. doi:10.5850/JKSCT.2014.38.2.191
  39. Zhang, P. P. (2017). The application of Taoist aesthetic thought in the clothing brand design - Take the "Useless" as an example. Unpublished master's thesis, Xi'an Polytechnic University, Xi'an.
  40. Zhu, L. Y. (2010). 美学大辞典 [Dictionary of aesthetics]. Shanghai: Lexicographical Publishing House.