The Research Journal of the Costume Culture (복식문화연구)

The Costume Culture Association (복식문화학회)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

Characteristics of female sublimity represented on Korean fashion designers' works

한국 패션디자이너 작품에 나타난 여성적 숭고의 특성

  • 지정숙 (고려대학교 사범대학 가정교육과) ;
  • 이예영 (고려대학교 사범대학 가정교육과)
  • Received : 2022.11.27
  • Accepted : 2022.12.23
  • Published : 2022.12.31
Download PDF
⟨ Previous Next ⟩

Abstract

Contemporary fashion research has paid increasing attention to the sublimity in the context of postmodernism. Sublimity is considered essential in contemporary fashion design as it arouses complex emotions which verbal expression cannot describe. Therefore, contemporary fashion designs need to be interpreted in terms of the sublimity. Through a detailed review of literature, the present study discusses Kantian and Lyotardian sublimity as main theories representing conventional and cotemporary concepts of sublimity. This paper selected five Korean fashion designers who won the prize of Samsung Design Fund from 2006 to 2019 and actively introduce their works every year. Images were collected to analyze their designs introduced from 2018 S/S to 2019F/W at their website. In addition, formative and color characteristics were analyzed to identify the changing features of s sublimity. Major findings of analyses are as follows. First, all designers' collections reflected both male and female sublimity with the respect to its formative characteristics. Color characteristics of sublimity indicated that Jeong, Wook Jun's collections represented features of male sublimity and other designers works showed elements of female sublimity. Essentially, the typical contemporary concept of the sublimity was found in the designs of Seo, Hye In. Consequently, female sublimity is more inclusive than male sublimity, while being opened to otherness.

Keywords

References

  1. Adorno, T. W. (1973). Negative dialectics (E. B. Ashton, Trans.). New York: Continuum. (Original work published 1966)
  2. Babcock, G. (2016, January 14). Juun. J makes the case for statement outerwear. COMPLEX. Retrieved November 30, 2022, from https://www.complex.com/style/2016/01/juun-j-pitti-uomo-89-outerwear-shearling-coats
  3. Bang, S. R. (2017). A study on the works of Ann Demeulemeester in womenswear: With a focus on 1990s-2010s. The Journal of Korean Society of Design Culture, 23(1), 239-257. doi:10.18208/ksdc.2017.23.1.239
  4. Burke, E. (1958). A philosophical enquiry into the origin of our ideas of the sublime and beautiful. New York: Columbia University Press.
  5. Choi, J. H. (2001). 숭고함의 체험과 호모 폴리티쿠스: 칸트와 아도르노의 논의를 중심으로 [Experience of sublimity and homopolyticus: Focusing on the discussion of Kant and Adorno]. Cheolhak, 67, 197-220.
  6. Choi, S. H. (2005). The sublime in contemporary fashion: Focused on the fashion: From the early 90's. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 55(7), 114-130.
  7. Choi, S. H., & Kim, M. J. (1994). A study on aesthetic category of dress: Selected period of the Renaissance and the Baroque. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 23, 197-210.
  8. Chun, Y. (2012). On the sublime and the uncanny in the postminimal work of Anish Kapoor. Journal of History of Modern Art, 32, 319-352. https://doi.org/10.17057/kahoma.2012..32.010
  9. Chung, H. S. (2022). A study on the aesthetics of gothic style in 14-15th century costume. Korean Journal of Human Ecology, 31(1), 113-130. doi. org/10.5934/kjhe.2022.31.1.113
  10. EUDON CHOI. (n.d.). AW19 Erotique Voilee. Retrieved November 30, 2022, from https://www.eudonchoi.com/en-kr/pages/aw19-erotique-voilee
  11. Hinrichsen, L. (2011). Economies of desire and the feminine sublime in Elizabeth Madox Roberts's the time of man. Southern Quarterly, 48(3), 34-51.
  12. Huh, Y. E., & Ha, J. S. (2018). Korean modern fashion and gender value. Journal of Fashion Design, 18(2), 1-19. http://dx.doi.org/10.18652/2018.18.2.1
  13. HYEIN SEO. (n.d.). Waste land fall/winter 2018. Retrieved November 30, 2022, from https://hyeinseo.com/collections/fw18/
  14. Jang, J. E. (2016, August 14). 앤드로지너스 룩(Androgenous look): 변화하는 패션 (문화전반) [Androgynous look: Transforming fashion (cultural aspect)]. Art Insight. Retrieved November 30, 2022, from http://www.artinsight.co.kr/news/view.php?no=24438
  15. Juun, J. (n.d.). 2018 fall/winter lookbook. Retrieved November 30, 2022, from http://www.juunj.com/collections/2019_fw/index.jsp
  16. Kang, J. H. (2011). A study on the feminine sublime in Oh Jung-Hee's novels. Unpublished master thesis, Ewha Womans University, Seoul, Korea.
  17. Kant, I. (2000/1790). The critique of the power of judgment (P. Guyer, & E. Matthews, Trans.). Cambridge: Cambridge University Press. (Original work published 1790)
  18. Kim, C. J. (2020). A study on the concept of sublime in the symbolic art-type of Hegel's aesthetics: Focusing on the relationship and differences with Kant, Lyotard, and Zizek. Journal of the Daedong Philosophical Association, 91, 89-125. doi: 10.20539/deadong.2020.91.04.
  19. Kim, E. H. (2017). Post-Korean war and woman's sublime writing: Focusing on the early literature of Park Kyongni. The Journal of Asian Women, 56(1), 37-62.
  20. Kim, H. (2001). On the possibility of female sublime. Journal of the Korean Feminist Philosophy, 1, 177-194.
  21. Kim, H. D. (1999). Sublimity, avant-garde, and post-modernism. Journal of the Daedong Philosophical Association, 6, 93-109.
  22. Kim, J. H. (2012). The sublime. Journal of Feminist Theories and Practices, 27, 282-299.
  23. Kim, J. M. (2008). A study on the meaning of sublime and its adoption in contemporary architecture: Focused on the analysis of Rem Koolhass' works. Journal of the Architectural Institute of Korea, 24(11), 181-190.
  24. Kim, M. (2013). Terror and the sublime in Frankenstein. The Comparative Study of World Literature, 45, 159-184.
  25. Kim, M. J. (1998). A study on modernism and postmodernism depicted on the 20th century of fashion (I): Focused on anti-aesthetics and open-fashion. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 37, 103-118.
  26. Kim, M. J. (2004). Costume aesthetics lesson: The way of looking: Costume aesthetics. Seoul: Kyomunsa.
  27. Kim, M. R. (2019). Postmodernism in makeup and fashion. Unpublished master's thesis, Sook Myung Woman's University, Seoul, Korea.
  28. Korea Standard Color Analysis. (n.d.). Korea Agency for Technology and Standards. Retrieved December 20, 2022, from https://www.kats.go.kr/content.do?cmsid=87
  29. Kwak, Y. (2019). 전율과 강화: 아도르노와 리오타르의 숭고 개념에 관하여 [Shivering and reinforcement: About sublimity concept of Adorno and Lyotard]. The Journal of Aesthetics and Science of Art, 56, 273-293. doi:10.17527/JASA.56.0.09
  30. Kwon, J. I. (2011). 숭고 이미지의 예술철학적 의미[The artistic philosophical significance of the exalted image]. The Journal of Humanities Stu- dies, 41, 67-112.
  31. KYE. (n.d.). Autumn winter 2019 collection. Retrieved November 30, 2022, from https://kye-official.com/product/lookbook_list.html?cate_no=63
  32. Lee, J., & Park, S. (2021). An analysis on aesthetic characteristics of medieval dress appearing in Azzedine Alaia's works: Focusing on asceticism and Causticism. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 71(6), 75-96. doi: 10.7233/jksc.2021.71.6.075
  33. Lipovetsky, G. (2002). Empire de l'ephemere [Empire of the ephemeral]. Princeton: Princeton University Press.
  34. Lyotard, J. F. (1985). The sublime and the avantgarde. Paragraph, 6(1), 1-18. https://doi.org/10.3366/para.1985.0009
  35. Park, H. H. (2017). A study on the guidance of children's art through sensibility and symbol of color: Focusing on IRI image scale color sensibility scale. Journal of the Basic Design & Art, 18(3), 140-151.
  36. REJINA PYO. (n.d.). AW 18 runway. Retrieved November 30, 2022, from https://rejinapyo.com/pages/aw18-runway
  37. Ro, J. (2015). Samsung fashion & design fund, global platform of Korean designers. Fashion Information and Technology, 12, 20-27.
  38. Seo, J. L., & Jin, K. O. (2005). The ugliness expressed in on-line game character's fashion on cyber-space. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 56(1), 106-120.
  39. Shin, M., & Lee, J. H. (2020). Semantic analysis on change of deconstructive fashion design from a semiotic perspective. Journal of Fashion Design, 20(4), 113-129. doi:10.18652/2020.20.4.7 
  40. Song, J. H. (2016). A study on the feminine sublime in Lee Je-has novels: Focusing on the interior of the scenery. The Journal of Language & Literature, 68, 177-202. doi:10.15565/jll.2016.12.68.177
  41. Sun, H., & Kim, M. (2022). A study on the aesthetic characteristics of Demna Gvasalia fashion design from neo-deconstructivism. Journal of Communication Design, 78, 212-225, doi:10.25111/jcd.2022.78.15
  42. Tai, C. (2016, January 6). Juun. J reinvents classic men's wear Juun. J has become known for his unique reinterpretations of classic men's wear pieces. WWD. Retrieved November 30, 2022, from https://wwd.com/?post_type=pmc-gallery&p=10304505
  43. Yang, L. N., & Park, S. H. (2013). The sublime beauty of German Romantic clothing styles represented in Caspar David Friedrich's paintings. Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association, 15(2), 91-107.
  44. Yeon, H. (2018). The criticism on fashion philosophy of Kant and its epistemology: A philosophical study on dress in a feminist point of view. Phenomenology and Modern Philosophy, 76, 53-80. doi:10.35851/PCP.2018.03.76.53
  45. Yoon, Y. D. (2016). Aesthetics of the sublime and moral education. Journal of Korean Ethics Stu- dies, 108, 31-49. doi:10.15801/je.1.108.201606.31