DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

16세기 네덜란드 서민복식에 대한 연구- 피터 브뤼겔의 회화 작품에 묘사된 남성복식을 중심으로 -

A study on Dutch populace's costumes in the 16th century- Focusing on men's costumes depicted in Pieter Bruegel the Elder's paintings -

  • 투고 : 2022.10.13
  • 심사 : 2022.11.25
  • 발행 : 2022.12.31

초록

This study examines the social and artistic aspects of the Netherlands in the 16th century, focusing on the paintings of Pieter Bruegel the Elder (1525-1569), a repre- sentative Dutch painter at that time. Also analyzed were the types and characteristics of each item of the male populace's and nobles' costumes at that point in the Renaissance. The results are as follows: most of the populace's chemises do not have frills on the neckline and sleeves; the doublet has a loose body and sleeves overall; and the sleeves and armholes are fixed with sewing rather than being detachable, making the epaulet invisible. The neckline of the doublet usually does not have a collar, but it sometimes has a hood. In the case of trousers, most males are shown wearing waist-high stockings, and a piece of cord is visible. It seems that the populace's coats were mainly Spanish-style capes. The 16th-century Dutch populace's costumes are imitative-reflecting a desire to emulate the codpieces and hairstyles of the aristocrats-while providing individuality through hats and belts. In terms of practicality, it appears that a knife and pouch were used in various living environments. This trend can be seen as a reflection of populace's perception of the costume at the time.

키워드

참고문헌

  1. Allegretti, P. (2010). Brueghel (J. Y. Lee, Trans.). Seoul: Yegyeong. (Original work published 2004)
  2. Arnold, J. (1985). Patterns of fashion: The cut and construction of clothes for men and women c1560-1620. London: Macmillan.
  3. Bae, S. J. (2018). A study on the upward flow of the Majo and Maja costumes in 18th century Spain, observed in the paintings of Francisco de Goya. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 42(1), 74-87. doi:10.5850/JKSCT.2018.42.1.74
  4. Chung, H. S. (2010). A history of fashion. Seoul: Gyomunsa.
  5. Gibson, W. S. (2001). Bruegel: The greatest Flemish painter in the 16th century (S. Kim, Trans.). Seoul: Sigongsa. (Original work published 1977)
  6. Gombrich, E. H. (1999). The story of art (S. G. Baek, & J. S. Lee, Trans.). Seoul: Yegyeong. (Original work published 1995)
  7. Han, E. S. (1999). A study on the clothing of the common people in the modern era -Focusing on the history of western costume-. Unpublished master's thesis, Sungshin Women's University, Seoul, Korea.
  8. Harbison, C. (2001). The art of the Northern Renai- ssance (L. S. Kim, Trans.). Seoul: Yegyeong. (Original work published 1997)
  9. Hoekstra, F. (1994). Pieter Bruegel. London: Park Lane.
  10. Jockel, N. (2006). Pieter Bruegel: Das Schlaraffenlald (S. D. Noh, Trans.). Seoul: Random House Joongang Inc. (Original work published 1995)
  11. Kim, Y. H., Bae, J. Y., & Ryu, K. W. (2019). A study on historical research on and the design of the Caraco and Jupon -Common people's costumes in the later 18th century-. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 69(3), 96-118. doi: 10.7233/jksc.2019.69.3.096
  12. Kim, Y. H., & Kim, H. J. (2012). A study on 17th and 18 th century common people's costumes in France. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 36(9), 901-915. doi:10.5850/JKSCT.2012.36.9.901
  13. Lee, J. O., Choi, Y. O., & Choi, G. S. (1999). A history of western clothes. Seoul: Hyungseol Publisher.
  14. Lee, S. H., Lee, K. S., Cho, S. H., Choi, K. H., Kwon, H. J., Kim, O. K., . . . Kim, H. J. (2002). World costume and fashion information. Seoul: Gyomunsa.
  15. Oberthaler, E., Pénot, S., Sellink, M., Spronk, R., & Hoppe-Harnoncourt, A. (2018). Bruegel: The master. London: Thames & Hudson.
  16. Populace. (2022). In Daum Encyclopedia. Retrieved August 12, 2022, from https://100.daum.net/encyclopedia;jsessionid=76743E5CCE02436C064B44C408ED387D/view/48XX12103184
  17. Roberts-Jones, P. (1974). Fall of Icarus. Tokyo: Art Publishing House.
  18. Shin, S. O. (2006). A history of costume in the west. Seoul: Suhaksa.
  19. Stechow, W. (1990). Pieter Bruegel: The elder. New York: Harry N. Abrams.
  20. Yoo, J. L. (1992). A study on the pictoral compo- sition and symbolism of Pieter Bruegel. Journal of Western Art History, 4, 59-91.
  21. Yoo, J. L., & Cho, O. S. (1999). A study on the civil costumes appeared on Dutch paintings in the 17th century. Journal of Fashion Business, 3(2), 37-47.