Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology (한국응용과학기술학회지)

The Korean Society of Applied Science and Technology (한국응용과학기술학회)
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A Study on the Formation of Lamellar Liquid Crystalline Using Skin Mimicking Surfactant

피부모사체 계면활성제를 사용한 라멜라 액정의 생성에 관한 연구

  • Kim, In-Young (R&D Center, Biobeautech Co., Ltd.) ;
  • Nam, Eun-Hee (R&D Center, Biobeautech Co., Ltd.) ;
  • Shin, Moon-Sam (Dept. of Senior Healthy Care and Beauty and Cosmetic science, Eulji University)
  • 김인영 ((주)바이오뷰텍 기업부설연구소) ;
  • 남은희 ((주)바이오뷰텍 기업부설연구소) ;
  • 신문삼 (을지대학교 미용화장품과학과)
  • Received : 2020.06.03
  • Accepted : 2020.06.23
  • Published : 2020.06.30
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Abstract

This study is a mixed surfactant (MimicLipid-MSM1000) that forms the same structure as that of the stratum corneum, sucrose distearate, polyglyceryl-2 dioleate, fermented squalane, ergosterol, 10-hydroxystearic acid, mixture consisting of was synthesized. When using 2~5 wt% of this mixed surfactant, it was possible to make an artificial skin mimetic that forms a multi-layer lamellar structure of 5~30 layers. An emulsion was prepared using this mixed surfactant, and a multi-layered lamellar phase was formed and analyzed mechanically. The appearance of this surfactant was a light brown hard wax, the hydrophilic lipophilic balance (HLB) was 12.53, the critical parameter value was 0.987, and the acid value was 0.13. Stability according to pH change was also stable in acidic (3.8), neutral (7.2) and alkaline (10.8). The particle size of the liquid crystal was found to be the most stable maltese cross lamellar crystalline droplet at 5~25mm. The size of the emulsified particles according to the change in the speed of the homo agitator is 2500 rpm (17.9mm±2.6mm), 3500rpm (12.5mm±2.1mm), 4500rpm (6.2mm±1.8mm) particles were formed. Liquid crystal forming particles were observed through a polarization microscope, and the formation structure of the liquid crystal was precisely analyzed with a scanning electron microscope (cryo-SEM). As an application field, it is expected that it will be widely applicable to the development of various prescriptions, such as various skin care cosmetics, makeup care cosmetics, and scalp protection cosmetics, by using a skin-mimicking surfactant.

이 연구는 피부 각질층의 구조와 동일한 구조를 형성하는 혼합계면활성제 (MimicLipidMSM1000)로써 수크로오스다이스테아레이트, 폴리글리세릴-2다이올리에이트, 발효스쿠알란, 에르고스테롤, 10-하이드록시스테아릭애씨드로 이루어진 혼합물을 합성하였다. 이 혼합 계면활성제를 2~5wt%를 사용할 경우, 5~30층의 다중층 라멜라구조를 형성하는 인공 피부 모사체를 만들 수 있었다. 이 혼합계면활성제를 사용하여 에멀젼을 만들고, 다중층의 라멜라 상이 형성되는 것을 메커니즘 적으로 해석하였다. 이 계면활성제의 외관은 연한 갈색의 단단한 왁스이었고, HLB(hydrophilic lipophilic balance)는 12.53이었으며, 임계파라미터 값(critical parameter value)은 0.987, 산가는 0.13이었다. pH변화에 따른 안정성은 산성(3.8), 중성(7.2), 알칼리성(10.8)에서도 안정하였다. 액정의 입경은 5~25mm에서 가장 안정한 십자형 모양 (maltese cross) 라멜라액정 드롭플렛(lamellar crystalline droplet)이 형성됨을 알 수 있었다. 호모믹서의 교반속도 변화에 따른 유화입자의 크기는 2500rpm (17.9mm±2.6mm), 3500rpm (12.5mm±2.1mm), 4500rpm (6.2mm±1.8mm) 속도가 높아 질수록 작은 입자가 형성되었다. 편광현미경을 통하여 액정형성 입자를 관찰하였으며, 주사전자현미경(cryo-SEM)으로 액정의 형성 구조를 정밀하게 분석하였다. 응용분야로써, 각질층의 다중 라멜라 동일한 구조를 형성하는 피부모사체 형성 계면활성제를 사용하여 다양한 스킨케어화장료, 메이크업 케어 화장료, 두피보호용 화장료 등 다양한 처방개발에 폭 넓게 응용이 가능할 것으로 기대한다.

Keywords

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