DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

A Systematic Review Exploring the Current State of Fashion Criticism -A Focus on the Fashion Designer Exhibition Reviews of Fashion Theory-

  • Received : 2019.10.30
  • Accepted : 2020.02.05
  • Published : 2020.04.30

Abstract

Considering the complex relationship between fashion curating and the critical approach of fashion exhibition reviews, this study explores the current state of fashion criticism in museology, focusing on fashion designer exhibition reviews of Fashion Theory. The author selected eighteen exhibition reviews of individual fashion designers' works from 1997 on to the current 2020 issues of Fashion Theory, which provides an interdisciplinary forum to analyze fashion as a cultural construction. The author performed a systematic review that qualitatively summarizes and/or synthesizes the findings of the studies on the topic with the process of a systematic review, such as key question formulation, analytic framework building, evidence mapping, critical appraisal, and evidence synthesis. The results of this study are as follows. First, the exhibition reviews included almost all stages of the inclusive fashion criticism model, based on an artifact study. Second, they reflected various critical discourses that offered current interpretations of historical and contemporary fashion. Third, they showed that fashion criticism in the museum context is the result of an interdisciplinary collaboration of various fashion agents. Finally, they offered a bridge for crossing the boundaries of various scholarly fields, as they combine multidisciplinary scholarship with object-based methods.

Keywords

References

  1. Anderson, F. (2000a). Museums as fashion media. In S. Bruzzi & P. C. Gibson (Eds.), Fashion cultures: Theories, explorations and analysis (pp. 371-389). Oxon: Routledge.
  2. Anderson, F. (2000b). Exhibition review: Hussein Chalayan. Fashion Theory, 4(2), 229-233. doi:10.2752/136270400779108717
  3. Arksey, H., & O'Malley, L. (2005). Scoping studies: towards a methodological framework. International Journal of Social Research Methodology, 8(1), 19-32. doi:10.1080/1364557032000119616
  4. Ayala, I., Cuenca-Amigo, M., & Cuenca, J. (2019). Examining the state of the art of audience development in museums and heritage organisations: a Systematic Literature review. Museum Management and Curatorship, 1-12. doi:10.1080/09647775.2019.1698312
  5. Bartlett, D. (2000). Issey Miyake: Making things. Fashion Theory, 4(2), 223-227. doi:10.2752/136270400779108753
  6. Bearman, M., Smith, C. D., Carbone, A., Slade, S., Baik, C., Hughes-Warrington, M., & Neumann, D. L. (2012). Systematic review methodology in higher education. Higher Education Research & Development, 31(5), 625-640. doi:10.1080/07294360.2012.702735
  7. Breward, C. (2008). Between the museum and the academy: Fashion research and its constituencies. Fashion Theory, 12(1), 83-93. doi:10.2752/175174108X269568
  8. Bourdieu, P. (1993). The field of cultural production: Essays on art and literature. Cambridge, MA: Columbia University Press.
  9. Carrara, G. (2009). Exhibition review: Dior: The new look. Fashion Theory, 13(1), 111-116. doi:10.2752/175174109X381409
  10. Choi, K. H. (2014). A theoretical reconsideration of contemporary fashion criticism. Fashion & Textile Research Journal, 16(1), 66-78. doi:10.5805/SFTI.2014.16.1.66
  11. Choi, K.-H. (2016). Fashion criticism in museology-The Charles James retrospective-. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 40(3), 437-455. doi:10.5850/JKSCT.2016.40.3.437
  12. Choi, K.-H., & Lewis, V. D. (2018). An inclusive system for fashion criticism. International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education, 11(1), 12-21. doi:10.1080/17543266.2017.1284272
  13. Corazzoa, J. (2019). Materialising the Studio. A systematic review of the role of the material space of the studio in Art, Design and Architecture Education. The Design Journal: An International Journal for All Aspects of Design, 22(sup 1), 1249-1265. doi:10.1080/14606925.2019.1594953
  14. Craik, J., & Peoples, S. (2006). Exhibition review: Vivienne Westwood: 34 years in fashion. Fashion Theory, 10(3), 387-399. doi:10.2752/136270406778050879
  15. DeGregorio, W. (2015). The architecture of woman: Charles James: Beyond Fashion, Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, May 8-August 10, 2014. Fashion Theory, 19(4), 491-503. doi:10.1080/1362704X.2015.1058038
  16. Di Trocchio, P. (2011a). Exhibition review: Maison Martin Margiela "20" the exhibition. Fashion Theory, 15(1), 99-107. doi: 10.2752/175174111X12858453158309
  17. Di Trocchio, P. (2011b). Exhibition review: Madeline Vionnet: Fashion Purist-The World According to Madeleine Vionnet. Fashion Theory, 15(4), 517-523. doi:10.2752/175174111X13115179150035
  18. Di Trocchio, P. (2014). Madame Gres: Couturier at work. Fashion Theory, 18(4), 465-471. doi:10.2752/175174114X13996533400114
  19. Gormally, M. F. (2015). Dries Van Noten-Inspirations: Musee Des Arts Decoratifs, Paris, March 1-November 2, 2014. Fashion Theory, 19(4), 549-561. doi:10.1080/1362704X.2015.1058040
  20. Granata, F. (Ed.). (2013). On fashion criticism. Fashion Projects, 4, 1-6.
  21. Granata, F. (2019). Fashioning cultural criticism: An inquiry into fashion criticism and its delay in legitimization. Fashion Theory, 23(4-5), 553-570. doi:10.1080/1362704X.2018.1433397
  22. Kaufman, D. A. (2012). Interpretation and the "Investigative" concept of criticism. Angelaki: Journal of the Theoretical Humanities, 17(1), 3-12. doi:10.1080/0969725X.2012.671635
  23. Kim, S. B. (1998). Is fashion art? Fashion Theory, 2(1), 51-71. doi:10.2752/136270498779754515.
  24. Latour, B. (2004). Why has critique run out of steam? From matters of fact to matters of concern. Critical Inquiry, 30(2), 225-248. doi:10.1086/421123
  25. Lau, C. K. (2011). Exhibition review: Hussein Chalayan: From fashion and back. Fashion Theory, 15(1), 93-98. doi:10.2752/175174111X12858453158264
  26. Littell, J. H., Corcoran, J., & Pillai, V. (2008). Systematic reviews and meta-analysis. New York, NY: Oxford University Press.
  27. Martin, R. (1998a). Addressing the dress. In M. Berger (Ed.), The crisis of criticism (pp. 51-70). New York, NY: New Press.
  28. Martin, R. (1998b). Exhibition review: Yeohlee: Energetics: Clothes and enclosures. Fashion Theory, 2(3), 287-293. doi:10.2752/136270498779476208
  29. Mason, L. (2005). Exhibition review: The art and craft of Gianni Versace. Fashion Theory, 9(1), 85-88. doi:10.2752/136270405778051446
  30. McDowell, C. (1994). The designer scam. London: Hutchinson.
  31. McNeil, P. (2008). “We're not in the fashion business”: Fashion in the museum and the academy. Fashion Theory, 12(1), 65-81. doi:10.2752/175174108X269559
  32. McNeil, P., & Miller, S. (2014). Fashion writing and criticism: History, theory, practice. London and New York: Bloomsbury Academic.
  33. Melchior, M. R. (2003). Exhibition review: Rudi Gernreich: Fashion will go out of fashion. Fashion Theory, 7(2), 223-227. https://doi.org/10.2752/136270403778052078
  34. Melchior, M. R. (2014). Introduction: understanding fashion and dress museology. In M. R. Melchior & B. Svensson (Eds.), Fashion and museums: Theory and practice (pp. 1-18). London and New York: Bloomsbury Publishing.
  35. Melchior, M. R., & Svensson, B. (Eds.) (2014). Fashion and museums: Theory and practice. London and New York: Bloomsbury Academic.
  36. Nicklas, C. (2013). Tradition and innovation: Recent Balenciaga exhibitions. Fashion Theory, 17(4), 431-444. doi:10.2752/175174113X13673474643165
  37. O'Neill, A. (2006). Exhibition review: Vivienne Westwood: 34 years in fashion. Fashion Theory, 10(3), 381-386. doi:10.2752/136270406778050969
  38. O'Neill, P. (2007). The curatorial turn: From practice to discourse. In J. Rugg & M. Sedgwick (Eds.), Issues in curating contemporary art and performance (pp.13-28). Bristol and Chicago: Intellect.
  39. Palmer, A. (2008a). Untouchable: Creating desire and knowledge in museum costume and textile exhibitions. Fashion Theory, 12(1), 31-63. doi:10.2752/175174108X268136
  40. Palmer, A. (2008b). Reviewing fashion exhibitions. Fashion Theory, 12(1), 121-126. doi:10.2752/175174108X269595
  41. Palmer, A. (2018). Permanence and impermanence: Curating western textiles and fashion at the Royal Ontario Museum. In A. Vanska & H. Clark (Eds.), Fashion curating: Critical practice in the museum and beyond (pp. 39-56). London and New York: Bloomsbury Academic.
  42. Pecorari, M. (2014). Contemporary fashion history in museums. In M. R. Melchior & B. Svensson (Eds.), Fashion and museums: Theory and practice (pp. 46-60). London and New York: Bloomsbury Academic.
  43. Pecorari, M. (2018). Beyond garments: Reorienting the practice and discourse of fashion curating. In A. Vanska & H. Clark (Eds.), Fashion curating: Critical practice in the museum and beyond (pp. 183-198). London and New York: Bloomsbury Academic.
  44. Potvin, J. (2010). Exhibition review: Yves Saint Laurent style. Fashion Theory, 14(2), 237-244. doi:10.2752/175174110X12665093381667
  45. QUT Library. (2020, February 25). Systematic reviews. QUT Library guides. Retrieved from https://libguides.library.qut.edu.au/systematicreviews
  46. Reponen, J. (2011). Fashion criticism today? In A. de Witt-Paul & M. Crouch (Eds.), Fashion forward (pp. 29-39). Oxford: Inter-Disciplinary Press.
  47. Reponen, J. (2013, April 23). The state of fashion criticism. Address. Retrieved from http://www.addresspublications.com/but-who-is-a-fashion-critic/
  48. Russell, R., Chung, M., Balk, E. M., Atkinson, S., Giovannucci, E. L., Ip, S., ... Lau, J. (2009). Issues and challenges in conducting systematic reviews to support development of nutrient reference values: Workshop summary: Nutrition Research Series, Vol. 2. NCBI. Retrieved from https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK44088/
  49. Scaturro, S. (2018). Confronting fashion's death drive: Conservation, ghost labor, and the material turn within fashion curation. In A. Vanska & H. Clark (Eds.), Fashion curating: Critical practice in the museum and beyond (pp. 21-38). London and New York: Bloomsbury Academic.
  50. Smallwood, P. (1996). The definition of criticism. New Literary History, 27(3), 545-554. doi:10.1353/nlh.1996.0039
  51. Steele, V. (1998). A museum of fashion is more than a clothesbag. Fashion Theory, 2(4), 327-335. doi:10.2752/136270498779476109
  52. Steele, V. (2008). Museum quality: The rise of the fashion exhibition. Fashion Theory, 12(1), 7-30. doi:10.2752/175174108X268127
  53. Steele, V. (2013). Alexander McQueen: Savage beauty. Fashion Theory, 17(4), 419-430. doi:10.2752/175174113X13673474643129
  54. Stevenson, N. J. (2008). The fashion retrospective. Fashion Theory, 12(2), 219-235. doi:10.2752/175174108X300003
  55. Svendsen, L. (2017). On fashion criticism. In G. Matteucci & S. Marino (Eds.). Philosophical perspectives on fashion (p. 117). London and New York: Bloomsbury Academic.
  56. Svensson, B. (2014). In conclusion: museums dressed in fashion. In M. R. Melchior & B. Svensson (Eds.), Fashion and museums: Theory and practice (pp. 197-205). London and New York: Bloomsbury Academic.
  57. Taylor, L. (1998). Doing the laundry? A reassessment of objectbased dress history. Fashion Theory, 2(4), 337-358. doi:10.2752/136270498779476118
  58. Taylor, L. (2004). Establishing dress history. Manchester and New York: Manchester University Press.
  59. Taylor & Francis Online. (2020). Fashion Theory. Taylor & Francis Online. Retrieved from https://www.tandfonline.com/action/journalInformation?show=aimsScope&journalCode=rfft20
  60. The Joanna Briggs Institute. (2017). Checklist for systematic reviews and research syntheses. The Joanna Briggs Institute. Retrieved from https://joannabriggs.org/sites/default/files/2019-05/JBI_Critical_Appraisal-Checklist_for_Systematic_Reviews2017_0.pdf
  61. Tight, M. (2019). Systematic reviews and meta-analyses of higher education research. European Journal of Higher Education, 9(2), 133-152. doi:10.1080/21568235.2018.1541752
  62. Titton, M. (2016). Fashion criticism unravelled: A sociological critique of criticism in fashion media. International Journal of Fashion Studies, 3(2), 209-223. doi:10.1386/infs.3.2.209_1
  63. Vanska, A. (2018). Boutique-Where art and fashion meet: Curating as collaboration and cultural critique. In A. Vanska & H. Clark (Eds.), Fashion curating: Critical practice in the museum and beyond (pp. 119-136). London and New York: Bloomsbury Academic.
  64. Vanska, A., & Clark, H. (Eds.). (2018). Fashion curating: Critical practice in the museum and beyond. London and New York: Bloomsbury Academic.