DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

구찌의 알렉산드로 미켈레 패션 디자인에 나타난 로맨티시즘 미적 특성

Aesthetic Characteristics of Alessandro Michele's Romanticism

  • 김진영 (홍익대학교 섬유미술.패션디자인과) ;
  • 이영재 (한양대학교, 주얼리패션디자인학과)
  • Kim, Jinyoung (Dept. of Tetile Art & Fashion Design, Hongik University) ;
  • Lee, Youngjae (Dept. of Jewelry Fashion Design, Hanyang University)
  • 투고 : 2020.02.10
  • 심사 : 2020.04.28
  • 발행 : 2020.05.30

초록

This investigated the romanticism of Alessandro Michele who leads new trends in fashion industry as a creative director for Gucci. In this study, 307 women's wears exhibited by Alessandro Michele for 3 years in Milan collections from 2015 F/W to 2017 F/W are categorized according to the aesthetic characteristics of romanticism. Additionally, the five aesthetic features of Gucci's fashion design are an addition since the appearance of abnormally large size under the influence of postmodernism. The results based on the study purpose are as follows. First, the decoration makes the garments stand out by using fancy materials, splendid multicolor combination, applique embroidery and three-dimensional objects. Second, exotic style is expressed from an occidental perspective using Chinese traditional fashion or textiles, and exotic accessories. Thirdly, sensuality is manifested using see-through materials to emphasize women's breasts, or the beautiful and sexual expression of women's body. Fourth, the new creations are designed by combining contrasting elements, such as disparate materials and, different genders. Furthermore, traditional cultures like baroque and rococo, and the 1970's vintage looks inspires the creation of retro-style. Finally, the appearance of extremely large shoulders, silhouettes, and details of the human body can be explained with expansive tendency. The aforementioned results further suggest that diverse characteristics are expressed via reflection of contemporary art and trends.

키워드

참고문헌

  1. Ahn, Y. S. (2013). The study on fashion styling applying the aesthetic characteristics of romanticism fashion in the 19th century (Unpublished Master's thesis). Ewha Womans University, Seoul, Korea.
  2. Berlin, I. (2013). The roots of romanticism (2th ed). New Jersey: Princeton University Press.
  3. Boehn, M. (2000). 패션의 역사 [History of fashion]. (M. S. Chun, Trans.). Seoul: Hangil Art. (Original work published 1908).
  4. Cho, K. H., & Lee, H. S. (2004). 패션 미학 [Fashion aesthetic]. Seoul: Soohaksa.
  5. Cho, M. H. (2007). A Study on aesthetic characteristics and visual evaluation of retro-romantic fashion (Unpublished doctoral dissertation). Sungshin Womans University, Seoul, Korea.
  6. Choi, Y. J. (2018). Aesthetic characteristics in Gucci collections (Unpublished master's thesis). Kookmin University, Seoul, Korea.
  7. Gucci 2015 F/W. (n.d.). Figure 14. Retrieved May 3, 2020, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2015/02/27/ready-to-wear-2015-fw-gucci/#0:6
  8. Gucci 2015 F/W. (n.d.). Figure 15. Retrieved May 3, 2020, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2015/02/27/ready-to-wear-2015-fw-gucci/#0:38
  9. Gucci 2015 F/W. (n.d.). Figure 18. Retrieved May 3, 2020, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2015/02/27/ready-to-wear-2015-fw-gucci/#0:20
  10. Gucci 2015 F/W. (n.d.). Figure 22. Retrieved May 3, 2020, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2015/02/27/ready-to-wear-2015-fw-gucci/#0:10
  11. Gucci 2015 F/W. (n.d.). Figure 26. Retrieved May 3, 2020, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2015/02/27/ready-to-wear-2015-fw-gucci/#0
  12. Gucci 2016 F/W. (n.d.). Figure 27. Retrieved May 3, 2020, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2016/02/25/ready-to-wear-2016-fall-gucci-collection/#0:11
  13. Gucci 2016 S/S. (n.d.). Figure 6. Retrieved May 3, 2020, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2015/09/24/ready-to-wear-2016-ss-gucci-collection/#0:6
  14. Gucci 2016 S/S. (n.d.). Figure 10. Retrieved May 3, 2020, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2015/09/24/ready-to-wear-2016-ss-gucci-collection/#0:25
  15. Gucci 2016 S/S. (n.d.). Figure 16. Retrieved May 3, 2020, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2015/09/24/ready-to-wear-2016-ss-gucci-collection/#0:1
  16. Gucci 2016 S/S. (n.d.). Figure 19. Retrieved May 3, 2020, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2015/09/24/ready-to-wear-2016-ss-gucci-collection/#0:32
  17. Gucci 2016 F/W. (n.d.). Figure 7, Retrieved May 3, 2020, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2016/02/25/ready-to-wear-2016-fall-gucci-collection/#0:37
  18. Gucci 2016 F/W. (n.d.). Figure 11. Retrieved May 3, 2020, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2016/02/25/ready-to-wear-2016-fall-gucci-collection/#0:2
  19. Gucci 2016 F/W. (n.d.). Figure 17. Retrieved May 3, 2020, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2016/02/25/ready-to-wear-2016-fall-gucci-collection/#0:22
  20. Gucci 2016 F/W. (n.d.). Figure 20. Retrieved May 3, 2020, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2016/02/25/ready-to-wear-2016-fall-gucci-collection/#0:43
  21. Gucci 2016 F/W. (n.d.). Figure 23. Retrieved May 3, 2020, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2016/02/25/ready-to-wear-2016-fall-gucci-collection/#0:59
  22. Gucci 2017 S/S. (n.d.). Figure 9. Retrieved May 3, 2020, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2016/09/22/spring-2017-gucci/#0:51
  23. Gucci 2017 S/S. (n.d.). Figure 12. Retrieved May 3, 2020, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2016/09/22/spring-2017-gucci/#0:0
  24. Gucci 2017 S/S. (n.d.). Figure 24. Retrieved May 3, 2020, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2016/09/22/spring-2017-gucci/#0:2
  25. Gucci 2017 F/W. (n.d.). Figure 8. Retrieved May 3, 2020, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2017/02/23/fall-2017-gucci/#0:7
  26. Gucci 2017 F/W. (n.d.). Figure 13. Retrieved May 3, 2020, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2017/02/23/fall-2017-gucci/#0:3
  27. Gucci 2017 F/W. (n.d.). Figure 21. Retrieved May 3, 2020, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2017/02/23/fall-2017-gucci/#0:71
  28. Gucci 2017 F/W. (n.d.). Figure 25. Retrieved May 3, 2020, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2017/02/23/fall-2017-gucci/#0:119
  29. Gucci 2017 F/W. (n.d.). Figure 28. Retrieved May 3, 2020, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2017/02/23/fall-2017-gucci/#0:116
  30. Jin, K. D. (2010). 서양 건축사 [A concise history of western architecture]. Seoul: Seowoo.
  31. Jo, Y. A. (2017). A study on the aesthetic characteristics of costume design for Les Miserables (Unpublished doctoral dissertation). Hongik University, Seoul, Korea.
  32. Jung, G. H. (2012). A study on symbolism appeared on landscape paintings by William Turner. The Journal of Europe Culture Arts, 3(2), 61-84.
  33. Jung, Y. Y., & Lee, Y. J. (2020). An analysis of gender images of fashion style in BTS music videos using Judith Butler's performativity theory. Journal of Fashion Business, 24(1), 88-101. doi:10.12940/jfb.2020.24.1.88
  34. Kim, J. H. (2011). A study on the characteristics of Romanticism in the paintings of Eugene Delacroix (Unpublished master's thesis). Incheon University, Incheon, Korea.
  35. Kim, J. W. (2006). On the decorative art of Gustav Klimt and Miriam Schapiro- A comparison with my own work (Unpublished master's thesis). Dankook University, Seoul, Korea.
  36. Kim, M. J. (2013). 복식 미학, 패션을 보는 시각과 패션에 대한 생각 [Aesthetics in dress, new perspectives on fashion & fashion thinking]. Seoul: Gyonoosa.
  37. Kim, T. H. (2007). A study on the romanticism design of modern men's fashion (Unpublished master's thesis). Ewha Womans University, Seoul, Korea.
  38. Ko, A. R. (2017). 서양의 복식문화와 역사 [Cultural history of western dress]. Paju: Gyomoonsa.
  39. La Danse. (n.d.). Retrieved February 8, 2020, from https://www.napoleon.org/histoire-des-2-empires/objets/la-danse-groupe-sculpte-pour-la-facade-de-lopera-garnier/
  40. Laver, J., Haye, A., & Tucker, A. (2002). Costume and fashion: A concise history. New York: Thames & Hudson.
  41. Lee, E. K., & Kim, M. J. (2006). 서양미술사 [Western Art History]. Seoul: Mijinsa.
  42. Lee, E. K., Kang, Y. J., Go, J. H., Kim, M. J., Kim, J. E., Son, S. Y., Yoon, H. K., Lee, J. W., Lim, S. H., Jun, H. H., Jung, Y. S., Jo, E. J., Choi, B., Ha, J. E., & Hong, S. H. (2015). 서양미술사전 [Western art dictionary]. Seoul: Mijinsa.
  43. Lee, K. A. (2003). The style of romanticism on fashion (Unpublished doctoral dissertation). Seoul Womans University, Seoul, Korea.
  44. Lee, Y. J. (2007). A study of origination and genealogy on street style according to anthropology. Journal of Fashion Business, 11(4), 183-203.
  45. Noh, Y. A., & Lee, Y. J. (2017). A study on the fashion type of design activism for social roles. Journal of Fashion Business, 21(5), 1-14. doi:10.12940/jfb.2017.21.5.1
  46. Romanticism Fashion, 1832. (n.d.). Retrieved February 13, 2020, from https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/179510735117805066/
  47. Romanticism Fashion, 1837. (2015, March 13). Retrieved February 15, 2020, from https://world4.eu/romantic-era-costumes-la-mode-mai-1837/
  48. John Nash 'Royal Pavilion'. (n.d.). Retrieved February 11, 2020, from https://www.britannica.com/place/Royal-Pavilion
  49. Shin, H. J. (2006). Romanticism in men's fashion since the 1990s (Unpublished master's thesis). Seoul National University, Seoul, Korea.
  50. Shin, S. O. (2016). 서양 복식사 [A history of costume in the west]. Seoul: Soohaksa.
  51. The Slave Ship. (2010, September 13). Retrieved February 02, 2020, from https://www.flickr.com/photos/artexplorer/5059811064
  52. Vaughan, W. (1994). Romanticism and art. London : Thames & Hudson.