Fashion & Textile Research Journal (한국의류산업학회지)

The Society of Fashion and Textile Industry (한국의류산업학회)
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A Study on Design Trends of Tailored Jacket in Contemporary Women's Collection -Focused on Constructive Elements of Jacket-

현대 여성복 컬렉션에 나타난 테일러드 재킷의 디자인 경향에 관한 연구 -재킷의 구성 요소를 중심으로-

  • Kim, Kyung-A (Dept. of Fashion Design, Suwon Women's University)
  • 김경아 (수원여자대학교 패션디자인과)
  • Received : 2019.09.09
  • Accepted : 2019.10.18
  • Published : 2019.10.30
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Abstract

Jackets are regarded as an element used to judge ideas and fashion trends for the age in which they are presented. This article analyzed recent tailored jacket fashion trends by categorizing jackets according to design elements. For this, design elements of tailored jackets were categorized into silhouette, collar and lapel, shoulder and sleeve, and decorative elements. We collected and categorized the changes of 491 jackets that have appeared in collections over the past 5 years. The results showed shoulder and sleeve changes (36.25%), silhouette changes (33.4%), lapel and color changes (12.6%), decorative element changes (11.2%), and no changes (6.5%). Jacket forms with changed shoulders and sleeves appeared as styles that have laterally or vertically expanded the shoulder and arm hole with the production of various sleeve forms. Silhouette changes were expressed through forms such as exaggerated silhouettes of oversized-clothing, silhouettes made through cutting or layering, and the polarization of length. Forms with a changed collar and lapel appeared with polarization trends in which lapels dramatically grow larger or narrower, diverse frontal adjustments using no-collar designs, and the utilization of shawl-collars; in addition, forms with changed decorative elements were expressed with layered decorations such as pockets or collar add-ons, adjustment changes using buttons, ribbons or zippers, and various trimmings. The analysis results show that modern female tailored jackets are being made to realize an exaggerated physical beauty of shoulder, sleeve and torsos to maximize decorative effects through new attempts in design.

Keywords

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