The Study of Wave, Wave-Induced Current in CHUNG-UI Beach

충의휴양소 전면 해수욕장의 파랑 및 해빈류에 관한 연구

Abstract

In this study, the past erosion history and current status in the CHUNG-UI beach of Eulwang-dong, Jung-gu, Incheon-Si, South Korea were investigated and analyzed the wave with wave-induced current to investigate the causes of coastal erosion. As a result, the significant wave height ($H_{1/3}$) was in the range of 0.07~1.57 m and the mean value was 0.21 m. The maximum wave height ($H_{max}$) was in the range of 0.02-4.76m and the mean value was 0.27m. The vertical wave height and cycles were estimated through numerical model experiments of wave transformation. The 50-year frequency design wave height ranged from 0.82m to 3.75m. As a result of the experiment of wave-induced current, wave-induced current in the CHUNG-UI beach was decreased after the installation of the Detached breakwater and the Jetty. On the other hand, when the crest elevation was increased up to 5 m, there was no significant change, but when the crest elevation was increased to 8m, strong wave-induced current occurred around the submerged breakwaters due to lowered depth of water. In addition, the main erosion of the CHUNG-UI beach is due to the intensive invasion of the wave characteristics coming from the outer sea into the white sandy beach. The deformation of the wave centered on the front of the sandy beach caused additional longshore currents flowing parallel to the sandy beach and rip currents in the transverse direction, thus confirming that the longshore sediment was moved out of the front and out of the sea. The results of this study can be used as preliminary data for the recovery of the sand and the selection of efficient erosion prevention facilities.

본 연구에서는 인천광역시 중구 을왕동 충의휴양소 전면 해역에서의 과거 침식이력 및 현황을 세밀히 조사하고 해안선 침식원인을 찾기 위해 파랑 및 해빈류 등을 조사하여 분석 하였다. 관측결과 유의파고($H_{1/3}$)는 0.07~1.57 m의 범위로 나타났고, 평균값은 0.21 m로 나타났다. 또한 최대파고($H_{max}$)는 0.02-4.76m 범위로 나타났고, 평균값은 0.27 m로 나타났다. 파랑변형 수치모형실험을 통해 법선파고 및 주기를 산정하였고, 50년 빈도 설계파고는 0.82 m~3.75 m의 범위를 나타내었다. 해빈류 실험 결과 이안제 및 도류제 설치 이후 충의 휴양소 해안 부근의 해빈류가 감소하는 경향을 나타냈다. 반면, 마루높이를 5 m까지 높였을 경우에는 큰 변화가 없었지만 8m로 높이면 낮아진 수심의 영향으로 강한 해빈류가 수중방파제 주변에 발생하였다. 또한, 충의휴양소의 주된 침식원인은 외해로부터 입사하는 파랑특성이 백사장 전면에 집중적으로 내습하기 때문이다. 백사장 전면으로 집중되는 파의 변형으로 백사장과 평행하게 흐르는 연안류와 횡단방향으로의 이안류를 추가적으로 유발시킴으로써 연안표사가 전면외해로 이동/유출하기 때문으로 확인할 수 있었다. 본 연구의 결과는 백사장 원상복구 및 효율적인 침식방지시설 선정의 기초자료로 활용될 수 있을 것으로 사료된다.

Fig. 1. Position Map of Wave Gauge and Wave-Induced Current

Fig. 2. Time variation of observation wave

Fig. 3. Incidence rate of Significant Wave Heights (H_1/3) per Wave Directions

Fig. 4. Incidence rate of Maximum Heights (H_1/10) per Wave Directions

Fig. 5. Incidence rate of Average Wave Heights (H_mean) per Wave Directions

Fig. 6. Incidence rate of Extreme Heights (H_max) per Wave Directions

Fig. 7. Movement path of buoys over time

Fig. 8. Grid position map of main Deepwater Design Wave (50-year reproduction frequency)

Fig. 9. Location map of Normal Wave Height

Fig. 10. Experiment results of Wave Height Distribution of WNW Wave direction (50-year frequency)

Fig. 11. Experiment results of Wave Height Distribution of W Wave direction (50-year frequency)

Fig. 12. Verification experiment result of Wave-induced Current

Fig. 13. CASE 1 Experiment Result of Wave-induced Current

Fig. 14. CASE 2 Experiment Result of Wave-induced Current

Fig. 15. CASE 3 Experiment Result of Wave-induced Current

Table 1. Investigation contents

Table 2. Average and Maximum·Minimum values of Wave property coefficients

Table 3. Observation results of Wave-induced current

Table 4. Wave Transformation Experiment Overview

Table 5. The results of the design wave analysis for the 50-year frequency interval

Table 6. Summary of Experimental for Wave-induced current