Journal of Fashion Business (패션비즈니스)

The Korean Society of Fashion Business (한국패션비즈니스학회)
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Analysis of CAD Design and Physical Properties of Double-raschel Spacer Fabric

더블라셀 소재의 CAD에 의한 표현과 물성연구

  • Choi, Kyoungme (Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Ewha Womans University) ;
  • Kim, Jongjun (Dept. of Fashion Industry, Ewha Womans University)
  • 최경미 (이화여자대학교 의류학과) ;
  • 김종준 (이화여자대학교 의류산업학과)
  • Received : 2018.11.14
  • Accepted : 2019.01.02
  • Published : 2019.02.28
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Abstract

WKSF (Warp-knitted spacer fabrics) knitted using a double Raschel machine is the three-dimensional knit that has vertically connected separate layers in loop structures. Because of its unique structure, the fabric is light, compressible and breathable. Owing to the high production speed, the use of the fabric is increasing in various areas. The purpose of this study is to establish the design process in the utilization of WKSF program and analyze the difference between WKSF and Neoprene as garment materials.. The study on the design related to WKSF has rarely been carried out because of the complexity of WKSF structure and the difficulties encountered in analyzing the structure and thread. Therefore, checking beforehand the simulation results similar to a final knit using the CAD program for WKSF can only enhance the efficiency of the design for the light knits. The conclusion drawn after designing the light knits using the CAD program and analyzing the pros and cons of WKSF through the various property evaluation techniques is as follows. The tension characteristic analysis results indicated that Neoprene specimen has the elastic transformation and resilience, thus behaving like an elastic product such as rubber. By contrast, in the event that clothing and fashion accessories are designed with WKSF, these products are kept in a boxy style fit so that the fabric can be applied flexibly to a curvy body line. In addition, WKSF is good in forming noticeably around a curvy body, because its resistance shear deformation is lower than that of Neoprene.

Keywords

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Figure 1. Irina Dzhus’ Latest Collection “Archetype”(www.fashionspyder.com)

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Figure 2. Sample Work Orders from Industry(YoungWoo CNI)

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Figure 3. Physical Properties of the Warp-knitted Spacer Fabrics

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Figure 4. Tensile Properties of Fmax, of the Warp-knitted Spacer Fabrics and Neoprene.

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Figure 5. Tensile Properties of Work of the Warp-knitted Spacer Fabrics and Neoprene

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Figure 6. Tensile Hysteresis at 100% extension, of the Warp-knitted Spacer Fabrics and Neoprene

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Figure 7. Shear V of the Warp-knitted Spacer Fabrics and Neoprene

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Figure 8. Shear Force at 2 degree of the Warp-knitted Spacer Fabrics and Neoprene

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Figure 9. 2HG/G at 2 degree of the Warp-knitted Spacer Fabrics and Neoprene

Table 1. Warp-knitted Spacer Fabrics Work Orders of Industry

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Table 1. Continued

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Table 2. Physical Properties of the Spacer Fabric

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Table 3. Comparison of Warp-knitted Spacer Fabrics and Simulation Results

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Table 4. Tensile Properties of Specimens

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Table 5. Shear Force and Hysteresis at 2 degree

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