공업화학 (Applied Chemistry for Engineering)

  • 제29권1호
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  • Pages.81-96
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  • 2018
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  • 1225-0112(pISSN)
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  • 2288-4505(eISSN)
한국공업화학회 (The Korean Society of Industrial and Engineering Chemistry)
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경옥가루의 물리화학적 특성 및 화장품 제형 응용 연구

Physicochemical Properties of Jadeite Powder and Its Application to Cosmetic Formulations

  • 김경미 (서울과학기술대학교 정밀화학과, 화장품종합기술연구소, 코스메틱 융.복합산업 지원센터) ;
  • 김용우 (서울과학기술대학교 정밀화학과, 화장품종합기술연구소, 코스메틱 융.복합산업 지원센터) ;
  • 홍인기 (서울과학기술대학교 정밀화학과, 화장품종합기술연구소, 코스메틱 융.복합산업 지원센터) ;
  • 박수남 (서울과학기술대학교 정밀화학과, 화장품종합기술연구소, 코스메틱 융.복합산업 지원센터)
  • Kim, Kyoung Mi (Department of Fine Chemistry, Cosmetic R&D Center, Cosmetic Industry Coupled Collaboration Center, Seoul National University of Science and Technology) ;
  • Kim, Yong Woo (Department of Fine Chemistry, Cosmetic R&D Center, Cosmetic Industry Coupled Collaboration Center, Seoul National University of Science and Technology) ;
  • Hong, In Gi (Department of Fine Chemistry, Cosmetic R&D Center, Cosmetic Industry Coupled Collaboration Center, Seoul National University of Science and Technology) ;
  • Park, Soo Nam (Department of Fine Chemistry, Cosmetic R&D Center, Cosmetic Industry Coupled Collaboration Center, Seoul National University of Science and Technology)
  • 투고 : 2017.10.18
  • 심사 : 2017.12.13
  • 발행 : 2018.02.10
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초록

본 연구에서는 천연 소재인 경옥가루의 물리화학적 특성을 조사하고 이를 함유한 워시오프 팩과 리퀴드 파운데이션을 제조하였다. 또한 이들 제형을 대상으로 각 제형이 주는 효과와 사용자 관능 평가, 제형 안정성 및 피부 안전성 평가를 수행하였다. 워시오프 팩 중의 경옥가루의 함량이 증가할수록 원적외선 방사율과 방사에너지 값이 증가하였고, 경옥가루를 3% 함유한 제품에서는 피부 적용 시 피부 온도가 약 $0.5^{\circ}C$ 상승하였다. 경옥가루를 첨가한 리퀴드 파운데이션은 피부 본래의 색을 더욱 선명하게 표현할 수 있는 채도를 나타냈다. 경옥가루를 첨가한 워시오프 팩과 리퀴드 파운데이션은 각각의 수분 보유량이 최대 5.0% 및 63.0%로 나타났다. 사용자 관능 평가에서 경옥가루를 함유한 워시오프 팩 제형은 피부친화력, 밀착력, 가려움 및 촉촉함을 개선시켰다. 경옥가루를 함유한 리퀴드 파운데이션도 대조군 제형과 비교했을 때 커버력을 제외한 모든 항목에서 개선이 이루어졌다. 경옥가루 함유 제형에 대해 8주간 안정성 평가를 한 결과 육안상으로 변색이나 분리현상은 관찰되지 않았으며 pH는 8주까지, 점도는 4주까지 안정함을 확인하였다. 또한, 피부 안전성 평가에서 경옥가루 함유 제형은 모두 자극이 없는 것으로 나타났다. 결론적으로, 경옥가루는 무기안료로써 안정성과 안전성이 확보된 새로운 다기능 소재로써 화장품에 응용 가능성이 있음을 시사하였다.

In this study, physicochemical properties of the natural jadeite powder were investigated and also the wash-off pack and liquid foundation containing the jadeite powder were prepared. In addition, each of these formulations was evaluated by various functional effects, sensory evaluation, stability and skin safety. In the wash-off pack, the far-infrared ray emissivity and radiation energy values increased as a function of the jadeite powder content. At a 3% jadeite powder content, the skin temperature increased by about $0.5^{\circ}C$ when the jadeite powder-containing formulation was applied to the skin. Besides, the chroma of the liquid foundation containing the jadeite powder more clearly expressed the original color of the skin. Moisture content measurements of the wash-off pack and liquid foundation containing the jadeite powder showed the highest moisture uptake of 5.0% and 63.0%, respectively. In sensorial test, the wash-off pack formulations containing the jadeite powder demonstrated improved affinities toward a skin, adherency, and moistness and combatted itching. The liquid foundation containing jadeite powder showed also improved affinities except for the coverage when compared to control formulations. Furthermore, the stability evaluation for 8 weeks revealed neither discoloration nor separation phenomenon for the formulations containing the jadeite powder. Moreover, the pH was found to be stable up to 8 weeks and the viscosity up to 4 weeks. Skin safety assessments showed that all formulations containing the jadeite powder were non-irritating. These results suggest that the jadeite powder as an inorganic pigment may serve as a new multi-functional cosmetic ingredient with stability and safety.

키워드

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