Fashion & Textile Research Journal (한국의류산업학회지)

The Society of Fashion and Textile Industry (한국의류산업학회)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

Analysis on Magazine Advertisements of Fashion Brands which Replaced Creative Directors - Focused on 'Saint Laurent', 'Louis Vuitton', and 'Gucci' -

크리에이티브 디렉터가 교체된 패션브랜드의 잡지 광고 분석 - '생 로랑', '루이 비통', '구찌'를 중심으로 -

  • Her, Yu-Sun (Dept. of Textiles, Merchandising and Fashion Design, Seoul National University) ;
  • Chun, Jae-Hoon (Dept. of Textiles, Merchandising and Fashion Design, Seoul National University)
  • Received : 2017.08.30
  • Accepted : 2017.10.23
  • Published : 2017.10.31
Download PDF
⟨ Previous Next ⟩

Abstract

Recently, the replacement of creative directors of fashion brands has gained attention from both researchers and practitioners. This study selected three representative fashion brands whose creative directors were replaced in the last 10 years, and analyzed the changed characteristics of their magazine advertisements. Literature studies and case studies were conducted as research methods. The subjects of the case studies were three fashion brands - 'Saint Laurent', 'Louis Vuitton', and 'Gucci'. Magazine advertisements were divided into two aspects: fashion photo elements and layout. The former can be classified into three components: the presence of a specific situation, the background of photos and objects, and the atmosphere of models. The latter can be classified into two components: the logo style and pictorial color. In terms of fashion photo elements, the presence of a specific situation in magazine advertisements appeared differently, depending on whether creative directors focus on the brand's own identity or on their own concept of each season. Also, the background of photos and objects, and the atmosphere of models changed depending on the situation. In terms of layout, there is no dramatic change in their logo styles, for they want to preserve their long tradition. And the more a creative director pursues younger sensibility, the more black and white color effect are added towards magazine advertisements. This study has its significance in that it confirms the replacement of creative directors has considerable influence on fashion brands' images and their magazine advertisements.

Keywords

References

  1. Ahn, J. H. (2012, January 26). Genealogy of luxury brands (1) How much do you know about the Louis Vuitton you Carry?. MK. Retrieved July 13, 2017 from http://news.mk.co.kr/newsRead.php?year=2012&no=55702
  2. Ahn, S. H. (2014. February 24). Creative + ${\alpha}$ The beginning of new age. Fashion Biz, Retrieved July 13, 2017 from http://www.fashionbiz.co.kr/article/view_login.asp?idx=137804&rurl=%2Farticle%2Fview%2Easp%3Fidx%3D137804&a=2
  3. Baik, J. Y. (2010, March 23). Gucci's creative director Frida Giannini. Elle. Retrieved September 21, 2017 from http://www.elle.co.kr/article/view.asp?MenuCode=en010103&intSno=1414
  4. Chow, J. (2016, April 1). Designer Hedi Slimane leaves Yves Saint Laurent. Wall Street Journal. Retrieved July 13, 2017 from https://www.wsj.com/articles/designer-hedi-slimane-leaves-saintlaurent-1459489536
  5. Gucci. (2009, March). Vogue magazine, pp. 15-16.
  6. Gucci. (2015, March). Vogue magazine, pp. 13-14.
  7. Gucci. (2016, March). Vogue magazine, pp. 11-12.
  8. Gucci. (2017, March). Vogue magazine, pp. 11-12.
  9. Gucci. (2011, September). Vogue magazine, pp. 13-14.
  10. Gucci. (2013, September). Vogue magazine, pp. 23-24.
  11. Gucci. (2014, September). Vogue magazine, pp. 25-26.
  12. Gucci. (2015, September). Vogue magazine, pp. 21-22, 25-26.
  13. Gucci. (2016, September). Vogue magazine, pp. 29-30.
  14. Heo, S. R. (2017, June 10). Interview with Saint Laurent's designer Anthony Vaccarello. Elle. Retrieved July 13, 2017 from http://www.elle.co.kr/article/view.asp?MenuCode=en010103&intSno=18995
  15. Hong, K. H. (2016, June 17). The first Saint Laurent campaign by Anthony Vaccarello. Vogue. Retrieved July 13, 2017 from http://www.vogue.co.kr/2016/06/17/안토니-바카렐로의-첫번째-생로랑-캠페인/?_C_=11
  16. Hwang, S. J., & Kim, I. (2013). A study on the effect of fashion magazine advertisement layout methods : Focusing on advertisements in online magazines. The Korean Society of Fashion Design, 13(2), 121-144.
  17. Hyun, Y. K. (2016, May 24). Changement of people in world luxury brands...Versace got their CEO from UK. Yonhapnews. Retrieved July 13, 2017 from http://www.yonhapnews.co.kr/bulletin/2016/05/24/0200000000AKR20160524158400109.HTML?input=1195m
  18. Jang, J. S., & Kim, M. J. (2010). Changes in the storytelling context and characteristics of fashion magazines : Focusing on brands advertisement features in Vogue from 1999 to 2009. The Korean Society of Fashion Design, 10(4), 35-46.
  19. Jang, K. H. (2016). Analysis of expression format of global fashion brand advertisement. Proceedings of the Korean Fashion and Culture Design Association, Spring Conference, Korea, pp. 63-65.
  20. Jang, Y. M. (2015). A study on how the inspiration of the creator affects the work through the example of Marc Jacobs. The Research Journal of Korean Society Beauty Art, 9(4), 45-50.
  21. Joh, W. Y. (2011). A study on the fashion styling in fashion magazines : Focusing on the fashion photographs in VOGUE(Italy). The Korean Society of Design Culture, 17(1), 583-596.
  22. Jung, H. I. (2014, January 1). About younger fashion labels. Nylon. Retrieved July 13, 2017 from http://post.naver.com/viewer/postView.nhn?volumeNo=8368962&memberNo=969762
  23. Kim, D. H. (2014, January). The culture which is called Hedi Slimane. Singles. Retrieved July 13, 2017 from http://navercast.naver.com/magazine_contents.nhn?rid=1427&contents_id=46964
  24. Kim, Y. C. (2009). A study on the visual effects of monochrome and monotone color. The Korean Society of Illustration Research, 21, 5-14.
  25. Kim, Y. K., & Lee, K. H. (2002). A study on the expression of apparel advertising in men's apparel. Fashion Business, 6(3), 69-83.
  26. Kim, Y. M., & Kim, Y. S. (2016). Analysis of Vogue magazine on forms of image expression and utilization of model poses in fashion photos. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 66(4), 111-127. doi:10.7233/jksc.2016.66.4.111
  27. Lim, S. Y. (2014, March 6). The new sensation of Louis Vuitton, Nicholas Ghesquiere. FashionMK. Retrieved July 13, 2017 from http://fashion.mk.co.kr/view.php?no=355891&year=2014
  28. Louis Vuitton. (2011, March). Vogue magazine, pp. 11-12.
  29. Louis Vuitton. (2013, March). Vogue magazine, pp. 233-234.
  30. Louis Vuitton. (2015, March). Vogue magazine, pp. 1-2.
  31. Louis Vuitton. (2016, March). Vogue magazine, pp. 1-2.
  32. Louis Vuitton. (2008, September). Vogue magazine, pp. 69-70.
  33. Louis Vuitton. (2009, September). Vogue magazine, pp. 115-116.
  34. Louis Vuitton. (2012, September). Vogue magazine, pp. 23-24.
  35. Louis Vuitton. (2014, September). Vogue magazine, pp. 33-34.
  36. Louis Vuitton. (2015, September). Vogue magazine, pp. 367-368.
  37. Louis Vuitton. (2016, September). Vogue magazine, pp. 123-124.
  38. Marsh, J. (2013). History of fashion : New look to now (Kim, J. E., Trans.). Seoul: Sigong. (Original work published 2012) Louis Vuitton, Vogue magazine, September (2016), p. 123-124.
  39. Menkes, S., & Wilson, E. (2013, October 2). Marc Jacobs to leave Louis Vuitton. New York Times. Retrieved July 13, 2017 from http://www.nytimes.com/2013/10/02/fashion/marc-jacobs-toleave-louis-vuitton.html
  40. Mower, S. (2016, September 28). Spring 2017 ready to wear Saint Laurent. Vogue. Retrieved July 13, 2017 from http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2017-ready-to-wear/saintlaurent
  41. Nam, H. J. (2014, March 7). Designer Nicholas Geschier releases new Louis Vuitton collection. Huffpost Korea. Retrieved July 13, 2017 from http://www.huffingtonpost.kr/2014/03/07/story_n_4916590.html
  42. Oh, C. I., & Lee, H. W. (2006). Exploratory research on creative director's core competence in an ad agency. Journal of Korean Society of Design Science, 67, 5-16.
  43. Park, E. Y. (2016c). The analysis and suggestion for fabricated photography appeared in the magazine. A Journal of Brand Design Association of Korea, 14(3), 273-282. https://doi.org/10.18852/bdak.2016.14.3.273
  44. Park, H. Y. (2016a, May 27). Balenciaga.Dior.Lanvin.Yves Saint Laurant The reason why the creative directors leave. JoongAng Ilbo. Retrieved September 21, 2017 from http://news.joins.com/article/20085639
  45. Park, J. H., & Lee, J. M. (2010). The role of fashion creative director. Journal Korea Society of Visual Design Forum, 28, 221-230.
  46. Park, Y. K. (2016b, October 25). The new bag for the new head. W Korea. Retrieved July 13, 2017 from http://www.wkorea.com/새-수장에게-새-백을/?_C_=5
  47. Park, Y. K. (2016d, February 1). Alessandro Michele, the innovator in Gucci. W Korea. Retrieved July 13, 2017 from http://post.naver.com/viewer/postView.nhn?volumeNo=8374579&memberNo=11677635
  48. Saint Laurent. (2017, April). Vogue magazine, pp. 13-14.
  49. Saint Laurent. (2017, March). Vogue magazine, pp. 31-34.
  50. Saint Laurent. (2017, September). Vogue magazine, pp. 41-42, 45-46.
  51. Saint Laurent Paris. (2013, March). Vogue magazine, pp. 39-40.
  52. Saint Laurent Paris. (2014, March). Vogue magazine, pp. 29-30.
  53. Saint Laurent Paris. (2015, March). Vogue magazine, pp. 29-30.
  54. Saint Laurent Paris. (2013, September). Vogue magazine, pp. 51-52.
  55. Saint Laurent Paris. (2015, September). Vogue magazine, pp. 27-28.
  56. Shin, J. K. (2004). New wave of manufacturing technology! digital manufacturing. Seoul: Cadandgraphic.
  57. Soh, H. (2008). The image of foreign countries represented in US magazine advertising. Asian Communication Research, 5(2), 76-102.
  58. 'The success of Gucci's success! Alessandro Michele's hidden story'. (2016). FashionN. Retrieved July 13, 2017 from http://magazine.channel.daum.net/fashionn/57500142ed94d20001aee003
  59. Yoo, J. B. (2017, April 26). Gucci resurrected again, Turn around completed due to 50% sales increase in 1 quarter. FashionN. Retrieved July 13, 2017 from http://m.fashionn.com/board/read.php?table=worldfashion&number=20332&page=1&sel=&search=%BE%CB%B7%BA%BB%EA%B5%E5%B7%CE%20%B9%CC%C4%CC%B7%B9&sel_cat
  60. Yves Saint Laurent. (2007, March). Vogue magazine, pp. 31-32.
  61. Yves Saint Laurent. (2009, March). Vogue magazine, pp. 33-34.
  62. Yves Saint Laurent. (2010, March). Vogue magazine, pp. 29-30.
  63. Yves Saint Laurent. (2007, September). Vogue magazine, pp. 21-22.
  64. Yves Saint Laurent. (2008, September). Vogue magazine, pp. 21-22.