Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회지)

Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회)
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Anti-melanogenesis Activities for the Terpenes from the Acantophanax koreanum Stems

섬오갈피나무 줄기 유래 테르펜 화합물의 멜라닌 생성 저해 활성

  • Mun, Seung Ri (Department of Chemistry and Cosmetics, Jeju National University) ;
  • Hyun, Ju Mi (Department of Chemistry and Cosmetics, Jeju National University) ;
  • Jo, Yeon Jeong (Department of Chemistry and Cosmetics, Jeju National University) ;
  • Jung, Eun Yeong (Department of Beauty Arts, Cheju Halla University) ;
  • Lee, Nam Ho (Department of Chemistry and Cosmetics, Jeju National University)
  • 문승리 (제주대학교 화학.코스메틱스학과) ;
  • 현주미 (제주대학교 화학.코스메틱스학과) ;
  • 조연정 (제주대학교 화학.코스메틱스학과) ;
  • 정은영 (제주한라대학교 뷰티아트과) ;
  • 이남호 (제주대학교 화학.코스메틱스학과)
  • Received : 2017.10.03
  • Accepted : 2017.10.31
  • Published : 2017.12.30
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Abstract

A. koreanum was investigated to identify the constituents possessing whitening effects. As anti-melanogenesis activities were screened for the ethanol extract and solvent fractions, n-hexane (Hex) and ethyl acetate (EtOAc) fractions showed the most potent activities. Three constituents were isolated from the n-Hex fraction of A. koreanum; kaurenoic acid (1), $16{\alpha}$-hydro-17-isovaleroyloxy-ent-kauran-19-oicacid (2), $16{\alpha}$-hydroxy-17-isovaleroyl-oxy-ent-kauran-19-oic acid (3). The chemical structures of the isolated compounds were elucidated based on the spectroscopic data including $^1H$ and $^{13}C$ NMR spectra, as well as comparison of the data to the literature values. Whitening effects were studied for the isolated compounds. Upon the anti-melanogenesis test using ${\alpha}-MSH$ stimulated B16F10 melanoma cells, the compounds 1, 2 and 3 inhibited the cellular melanogenesis and intracellular tyrosinase activities effectively. Based on these results, A. koreanum stems extract could be potentially applicable as whitening ingredients in cosmetic formulations.

본 연구에서는 섬오갈피 줄기 추출물 및 용매 분획물의 미백 활성을 검색하고 유효성분을 분리하여 화학구조를 규명하였다. 섬오갈피 줄기 에탄올 추출물 및 용매 분획물의 멜라닌 생성 억제활성을 측정한 결과, 헥산 및 에틸아세테이트 분획물에서 우수한 멜라닌 생성 억제 효과가 있음을 확인하였다. 비교적 세포독성이 적은 헥산 분획물에서 유효성분을 찾고자 크로마토크래피를 실시하여 3개의 화합물을 분리하였으며 $^1H$ 및 $^{13}C$ NMR 데이터 분석 및 문헌 비교를 통하여 화학구조를 동정하였다; kaurenoic acid (1), $16{\alpha}$-hydro-17-isovaleroyloxy-ent-kauran-19-oic acid (2), $16{\alpha}$-hydroxy-17-isovaleroyloxy-ent-kauran-19-oic acid (3). 분리된 화합물에 대한 미백 활성 실험 결과, 화합물 1-3 모두 농도의존적으로 멜라닌 생성을 억제하였다. 또한 세포 내 티로시나제 효소의 활성을 감소시킴을 확인하였으며 이러한 연구 결과를 바탕으로 섬오갈피 줄기 추출물은 기능성 미백 화장품 소재로써 활용 가능할 것이라 사료된다.

Keywords

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