복식문화연구 (The Research Journal of the Costume Culture)

  • 제25권6호
  • /
  • Pages.862-879
  • /
  • 2017
  • /
  • 1226-0401(pISSN)
  • /
  • 2383-6334(eISSN)
복식문화학회 (The Costume Culture Association)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

알렉산더 왕 컬렉션에 나타난 애슬레저 룩의 특성

Characteristics of the athleisure look in the Alexander Wang's collection

  • 투고 : 2017.10.30
  • 심사 : 2017.12.13
  • 발행 : 2017.12.31
PDF 다운로드
⟨ 이전 논문 다음 논문 ⟩

초록

The purpose of this study is to analyze Alexander Wang's collections representing the athleisure look, and suggest a multilateral direction for fashion design based on the data. The present study examines literature, journals, and mass media to define the athleisure look and understand the background of its emergence, and assess its key design characteristics. The collections examined are from 2007 fall/winter to 2017 spring/summer, and T by Alexander Wang from 2011 spring/summer to 2016 fall/winter. A total of 446 photos were collected and verified by a group of experts. The characteristics of the athleisure look in Alexander Wang's collections were described by the following themes: dynamism (39.46%), unexpectedness (34.30%), sensuality (14.57%), and resistance (11.65%). Results revealed a number of findings: First, regarding the sensuality of the athleisure look found in Alexander Wang's collections, it was found to exhibit the lines of the human body and highlight sexiness and healthy beauty - with either direct or indirect body exposure. Second, the concept of dynamism is the most frequently seen - utilizing items with a comfortable or loose fit or materials that are flexible to enhance activity. Third, resistance appears as a specific style using aggressive and rough decorations. Alexander Wang's signature color, black, appears often, and showcases resistance through black clothing and fashion. Fourth, the unexpectedness of the athleisure look found in Alexander Wang's collections creates its own uniqueness with playful expressions made by various materials' mixed and matched or made visually fun.

키워드

참고문헌

  1. Accessories Staff. (2013, September 30). Multiple uses drive sales surge in athletic apparel, footwear. Accessories Magazine, Retrieved October 11, 2016, from https://www.accessoriesmagazine.com/80267/multiple-uses-drive-sales-surge-athletic-apparel-footwear
  2. Buxbaum, G. (2005). Icons of fashion: The 20th Century(2nd ed.). New York: Prestel Pub.
  3. Choi, K. H. (2004). The types and aesthetic characteristics in the sportism expressed in modern fashion. Journal of Fashion Business, 8(1), 91-106.
  4. Choi, Y. K. (2015, January 29). 스트리트 쿠튀르의 대가 알렉산더 왕 [Street couture master, Alexander Wang]. W KOREA, Retrieved September 14, 2017, from http://www.wkorea.com/2015/01/29/스트리트-쿠튀르의-대가-알렉산더-왕
  5. Cleary, T. (2016, May 24). Suzanne Lenglen: 5 fast facts you need to know. Heavy, Retrieved October 11, 2016, from http://heavy.com/sports/2016/05/suzanne-lenglen
  6. Espinoza, J. (2016, March 5). NikeLab and undercover's latest Gyakusou collection is coming for your closet, even if you hate running. Complex, Retrieved October 11, 2016, from http://www.complex.com/style/2016/03/nikelab-gyakusou-undercover-spring-2016-collection
  7. Fashion Materials Development Committee. (1997). Athleisure. In Fashion전문 자료사전 [A fashion dictionary], Retrieved May 8, 2016, from http://terms.naver.com/entry.nhn?docId=283240&cid=42822&categoryId=42822
  8. Hamzaraj. (2014, June 25). Images [Blog Post]. Retrieved October 11, 2016, from https://hamzaraj.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/download-3.jpg
  9. Hanon. (2016, April 28). adidas Originals = Pharrell Williams "Pink Beach" apparel collection [Blog Post]. Retrieved October 11, 2016, from https://www.hanon-shop.com/the-blog/adidas-originals-pharrell-williams-pink-beach-apparel-collection
  10. Jang, B. C. (2016, May 25). 포브스 "나이키, 루이뷔통 제쳤다" [Nike dropped Louis Vuitton, Forbes]. Apparelnews, Retrieved August 14, 2016, from http://www.apparelnews.co.kr/naver/view.php?iid=61330
  11. Junqueira, M. (n.d.). Gymwear [Pinterest]. Retrieved October 11, 2016, from https://www.pinterest.co.kr/pin/557883472574570109
  12. Kim, B. R. (2016). Unexpectedness in christmas window displays of department store. Unpublished master's thesis, Hanyang University, Seoul, Korea.
  13. Kim, E. K. (2004). A study of ethnic images found in modern sports fashion. Unpublished master's thesis, Sookmyung Women's University, Seoul, Korea.
  14. Kim, E.-K., & Chae, K.-S. (2006). A study of ethnic images found in modern sports fashion. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 30(7), 1054-1065.
  15. Kim, J. H. (2002). A study on sportive look of modern fashion: Concentrating on pret-a-porter collection after the 1990's. Unpublished master's thesis, Seoul Women's University, Seoul, Korea.
  16. Kim, M.-J. (2013). A study on the sport-fashion design by means of slash techniques. Unpublished master's thesis, Ewha Womans University, Seoul, Korea.
  17. Kim, Y., & Lee, Y. H. (2015). The expressive characteristics of prep-hop fashion in contemporary men's fashion. Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion Design, 15(2), 75-93.
  18. Lee, C. Y. (2016). Development of athleisure look design applying cut-out techniques. Unpublished master's thesis, Dongduk women's University, Seoul, Korea.
  19. Lee, D. A. (2016). Development of an athleisure bike sports wear design for appropriate city sports activities. Unpublished doctoral dissertation, Chung-Ang University, Seoul, Korea.
  20. Lee, E. Y. (2016, January 29). 스타일 살린 스포츠웨어... 지금 '애슬레저' 전성기 [Sport with Style]. Korea Daily, Retrieved August 22, 2016, from http://www.koreadaily.com/news/read.asp?art_id=3994962
  21. Lee, H. W. (2004). A study on sportism in modern fashion. Unpublished master's thesis, Hongik University, Seoul, Korea.
  22. Lim, E.-A., & Chae, K.-S. (2002). A study on the modern sport-fashion. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 26(9/10), 1308-1319.
  23. Moon, B. H. (2016, April 29). 애슬레저, 스포츠에서 아웃도어까지 [From sports to outdoor]. Fashion Seoul, Retrieved October 12, 2016, from http://www.fashionseoul.com/111136
  24. Moon, S. Y. (2010). A study on the promotion package design using unexpectedness: Focusing on innerwear brands targeting young consumers. Unpublished master's thesis, Ewha Womans University, Seoul, Korea.
  25. Muller. M. G. (2017, February 15). Alexander Wang called out Philipp Plein for plagiarism with a side- by-side video comparison (update). Allure, Retrieved October 12, 2017, from https://www.allure.com/story/alexander-wang-philipp-plein-plagirism?intcid=recirc_hotlink
  26. Nike. (2015, February 18). NikeLab x sacai: A bold expression of sport and style. Nike News, Retrieved October 11, 2016, from https://news.nike.com/news/nikelab-x-sacai-define-a-new-aesthetic
  27. Nike. (2016, March 17). NikeLab x RT: Training redefined. Nike News, Retrieved October 11, 2016, from https://news.nike.com/news/riccardo-tisci-training-collection
  28. Oh, J. M. (2016, August 9). 애슬레저 열풍에 SPA 브랜드들 "운동하는 여성들 지갑 열자" [Athleisure's Craze, Let's open up the wallets of women working out]. The Korea Economic Daily, Retrieved August 14, 2016, from http://news.hankyung.com/article/201608090528g?nv=o
  29. Parental Advisory. (n.d.). In Wikipedia. Retrieved October 30, 2017, from https://ko.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parental_Advisory
  30. Park, I. H. (2016, August 30). '애슬레저' 눈독 들인 SPA [SPA brand having an eye to athleisure]. Maeil Business Newspaper, Retrieved September 4, 2016, from http://news.mk.co.kr/newsRead.php?no=615796&year=2016
  31. Park, J.-S. (2005). A study on apparel designs based on sportism: Focused on development of brand commodities. Unpublished master's thesis, Ewha Womans University, Seoul, Korea.
  32. Porter, N. (2016, April 27). H&M unveils the Swedish olympic team's new uniforms. Racked, Retrieved October 11, 2016, from https://www.racked.com/2016/4/27/11517942
  33. Ray, P. (2016, June 14). Kim Jones of Louis Vuitton for Nike. TheShoeGasme.com, Retrieved October 11, 2016, from http://theshoegame.com/articles/kim-jones-louis-vuitton-nike.html
  34. Schwiegershausen, E. (2014, October 16). Are you ready for Alexander Wang's H&M collection?. The Cut, Retrieved October 11, 2016, from https://www.thecut.com/2014/10/here-is-alexander-wangs-full-hm-collection.html
  35. Sfcitizen. (2012, October 29). Photoshop meltdown from the Gap-GapFit campaign-thinned torsos, twisted torsos, variable hooters [Blog Post]. Retrieved October 11, 2016, from http://sfcitizen.com/blog/2012/10/29/photoshop-meltdown-from-the-gap-gapfit-campaign-thinned-torsos-twisted-torsos-variable-hooters
  36. Staff. (2015). SMMF: NikeLab x sacai collection favourites @Nike. Marcus Troy, Retrieved October 11, 2016, from http://marcustroy.com/smmf-nikelab-x-sacai-collection-favourites-nike
  37. The International Textile Fashion News. (2015, October 26). 액티브웨어 호황 지속될 전망 [Active wear, a prospect of continuing prosperity]. The International Textile Fashion News, Retrieved May 15, 2016, from http://www.itnk.co.kr/news/articleView.html?idxno=47403
  38. Unexpectedness. (n.d.). In Naver Korean language dictionary. Retrieved October 30, 2016, from http://krdic.naver.com/search.nhn?query=%EC%9D%B4%EC%99%B8&kind=all
  39. Van Meter, W. (2016, January 4). 자신의 레이블 10주년을 맞이한 알렉산더 왕 [Alexander Wang's label celebrates 10th anniversary]. Vogue Korea, Retrieved September 30, 2016, from http://www.vogue.co.kr/2016/01/04/%ec%9e%90%ec%8b
  40. Vogue. (2008, September 6). Alexander Wang: Spring 2009 ready-to-wear. Vogue, Retrieved September 14, 2016, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2009-ready-to-wear/alexander-wang/slideshow/collection#39
  41. Vogue. (2009, September 12). Alexander Wang: Spring 2010 ready-to-wear. Vogue, Retrieved September 14, 2016, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2010-ready-to-wear/alexander-wang#collection
  42. Vogue. (2010a, September 11). Alexander Wang: Spring 2011 ready-to-wear. Vogue, Retrieved September 14, 2016, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2011-ready-to-wear/alexander-wang/slideshow/collection#21
  43. Vogue. (2010b, October 28). T by Alexander Wang: Spring 2011 ready-to-wear. Vogue, Retrieved September 14, 2016, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2011-ready-to-wear/t-by-alexander-wang/slideshow/collection#15
  44. Vogue. (2011a, June 15). Alexander Wang: Resort 2012. Vogue, Retrieved September 14, 2016, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2012/alexander-wang#collection
  45. Vogue. (2011b, September 10). Alexander Wang: Spring 2012 ready-to-wear. Vogue, Retrieved September 14, 2016, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2012-ready-to-wear/alexander-wang#collection
  46. Vogue. (2012a, June 14). T by Alexander Wang: Resort 2013. Vogue, Retrieved September 14, 2016, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2013/t-by-alexander-wang/slideshow/collection#1
  47. Vogue. (2012b, September 8). Alexander Wang: Spring 2013 ready-to-wear. Vogue, Retrieved September 14, 2016, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2013-ready-to-wear/alexander-wang/slideshow/collection#20
  48. Vogue. (2013a, September 7). Alexander Wang: Spring 2014 ready-to-wear. Vogue, Retrieved September 14, 2016, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2014-ready-to-wear/alexander-wang/slideshow/collection#16
  49. Vogue. (2013b, September 12). T by Alexander Wang: Spring 2014 ready-to-wear. Vogue, Retrieved September 14, 2016, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2014-ready-to-wear/t-by-alexander-wang/slideshow/collection#11
  50. Vogue. (2014a, February 13). T by Alexander Wang: Fall 2014 ready-to-wear. Vogue, Retrieved September 14, 2016, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2014-ready-to-wear/t-by-alexander-wang#collection
  51. Vogue. (2014b, June 3). Alexander Wang: Resort 2015. Vogue, Retrieved September 14, 2016, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2015/alexander-wang/slideshow/collection#7
  52. Vogue. (2015a, February 15). Alexander Wang: Fall 2015 ready-to-wear. Vogue, Retrieved September 14, 2016, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2015-ready-to-wear/alexander-wang/slideshow/collection#43
  53. Vogue. (2015b, September 13). Alexander Wang: Spring 2016 ready-to-wear. Vogue, Retrieved September 14, 2016, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2016-ready-to-wear/alexander-wang/slideshow/collection#23
  54. Vogue. (2016, September 11). Alexander Wang: Spring 2017 ready-to-wear. Vogue, Retrieved September 14, 2016, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2017-ready-to-wear/alexander-wang#collection

피인용 문헌

  1. 라슬로 모홀리 나기의 회화를 응용한 애슬레저 패션 디자인 vol.23, pp.2, 2021, https://doi.org/10.30751/kfcda.2021.23.2.115