DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

Characteristics of long-period swells measured in the near shore regions of eastern Arabian Sea

  • Glejin, Johnson (Ocean Engineering Division, CSIR-National Institute of Oceanography, Council of Scientific & Industrial Research) ;
  • Kumar, V. Sanil (Ocean Engineering Division, CSIR-National Institute of Oceanography, Council of Scientific & Industrial Research) ;
  • Amrutha, M.M. (Ocean Engineering Division, CSIR-National Institute of Oceanography, Council of Scientific & Industrial Research) ;
  • Singh, Jai (Ocean Engineering Division, CSIR-National Institute of Oceanography, Council of Scientific & Industrial Research)
  • Received : 2015.10.27
  • Accepted : 2016.03.28
  • Published : 2016.07.30

Abstract

Measured wave data covering two years simultaneously at 3 locations along the eastern Arabian Sea reveals the presence of long-period (peak wave period > 18 s) low-amplitude waves (significant wave height < 1 m) and the characteristics of these waves are described in this article. In a year, 1.4-3.6% of the time, the low-amplitude long-period swells were observed, and these waves were mainly during the nonmonsoon period. The wave spectra during these long-period swells were multi-peaked with peak wave period around 18.2 s, the secondary peak period around 13.3 s and the wind-sea peak period at 5 s. The ratio of the spectral energy of the wind-sea peak and the primary peak (swell) was slightly higher at the northern location (0.2) than that at the southern location (0.15) due to the higher wind speed present at the northern location.

Keywords

References

  1. Anoop, T.R., Sanil Kumar, V., Glejin, Johnson, 2014. A study on reflection pattern of swells from the shoreline of peninsular India. Nat. Hazards 74, 1863-1879. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s11069-014-1282-5.
  2. Ardhuin, F., Chapron, B., Collard, F., 2008. Dissipation of steep swells observed across oceans. Geophys. Res. Lett. 36, 1-5.
  3. Ardhuin, F., Jenkins, A., 2005. On the effect of wind and turbulence on ocean swell. In: Proceedings of the 15th International Polar and Offshore Engineering Conference, June 19-24, Seoul, South Korea, vol. III, pp. 429-434, 2005.
  4. Datawell, 2009. Datawell Waverider Reference Manual. Datawell BV Oceanographic Instruments, The Netherlands, p. 123. Oct. 10.
  5. Gjevik, B., Krogstad, H., Lygre, A., Rygg, O., 1988. Long period swell wave events on the Norwegian Shelf. J. Phys. Oceanogr. 18, 724-737. https://doi.org/10.1175/1520-0485(1988)018<0724:LPSWEO>2.0.CO;2
  6. Glejin, J., Sanil Kumar, V., Balakrishnan Nair, T.M., Singh, J., 2013. Influence of winds on temporally varying short and long period gravity waves in the near shore regions of the eastern Arabian Sea. Ocean Sci. 9, 343-353. http://dx.doi.org/10.5194/os-9-343-2013.
  7. Glejin, J., Sanil Kumar, V., Sajiv, P.C., Singh, J., Pednekar, P., Kumar, K.A., Dora, G.U., Gowthaman, R., 2012. Variations in swells along eastern Arabian Sea during the summer monsoon. Open J. Mar. Sci. 2 (2), 43-50. https://doi.org/10.4236/ojms.2012.22006
  8. Glejin, J., Sanil Kumar, V., Singh, J., 2015. Inter-annual variations in wave characteristics off Ratnagiri, Northeast Arabian sea, Aquatic procedia. In: Proceedings of International Conference on Water Resources, Coastal and Ocean Engineering (ICWRCOE 2015), NIT Surathkal, 12-14 March 2015, 4, pp. 25-31.
  9. Hamilton, G.D., 1992. Measurement of long period, low amplitude swell in the Western North Atlantic Ocean. J. Atmos. Ocean. Technol. 9, 645-658. https://doi.org/10.1175/1520-0426(1992)009<0645:MOLPLA>2.0.CO;2
  10. Haver, S., 1980. Analysis of Uncertainties Related to the Stochastic Modelling of Ocean Waves. Division of Marine Structures, Norwegian Institute of Technology, Rep, p. 187. UR-80-09.
  11. Kuik, A.J., Vledder, G., Holthuijsen, L.H., 1988. A method for the routine analysis of pitch and roll buoy wave data. J. Phys. Oceanogr. 18, 1020-1034. https://doi.org/10.1175/1520-0485(1988)018<1020:AMFTRA>2.0.CO;2
  12. McComb, P., Johnson, D., Beamsley, B., 2009. Numerical model study to reduce swell and long wave penetration to Port Geraldton. In: Proceedings of the 2009 Pacific Coasts and Ports Conference, Wellington, New Zealand.
  13. Munk, W.H., Miller, G.R., Snodgrass, F.E., Barber, N.F., 1963. Directional recording of swell from distant storm. Philos. Trans. R. Soc. Lond. A255, 505-584.
  14. Portilla, J., Ocampo-Torres, F.J., Monbaliu, J., 2009. Spectral partitioning and identification of wind sea and swell. J. Atmos. Ocean. Technol. 26, 117-122.
  15. Saha, et al., 2010. The NCEP climate Forecast system reanalysis. B Am. Meteorol. Soc. 91 (8), 1015-1057. https://doi.org/10.1175/2010BAMS3001.1
  16. Sanil Kumar, V., Shanas, P.R., Dubhashi, K.K., 2014a. Shallow water wave spectral characteristics along the eastern Arabian Sea. Nat. Hazards 70, 377-394. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s11069-013-0815-7.
  17. Sanil Kumar, V., Dubhashi, K.K., Nair, T.M.B., 2014b. Spectral wave characteristics off Gangavaram, Bay of Bengal. J. Oceanogr. 70, 307-321 doi 10.1007/s10872-014-0223-y.
  18. Sanil Kumar, V., Singh, J., Pednekar, P., Gowthaman, R., 2011. Waves in the nearshore waters of northern Arabian Sea during the summer monsoon. Ocean. Eng. 38, 382-388. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.oceaneng.2010.11.009.

Cited by

  1. Wave spectral shapes in the coastal waters based on measured data off Karwar on the western coast of India vol.13, pp.3, 2016, https://doi.org/10.5194/os-13-365-2017
  2. Observation of dominance of swells over wind seas in the coastal waters of the Gulf of Mannar, India vol.13, pp.5, 2017, https://doi.org/10.5194/os-13-703-2017
  3. Surface wave dynamics off Mumbai coast, north-eastern Arabian Sea vol.69, pp.1, 2016, https://doi.org/10.1007/s10236-018-1230-0
  4. Nearshore Waves and Littoral Drift Along a Micro-Tidal Wave-Dominated Coast Having Comparable Wind-Sea and Swell Energy vol.8, pp.1, 2016, https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse8010055
  5. Performance Assessment of ERA5 Wave Data in a Swell Dominated Region vol.8, pp.3, 2020, https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse8030214