Fashion, Industry and Education

복식문화학회 (The Costume Culture Association)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

Sustainable Luxury Fashion Consumption and the Moderating Role of Guilt

  • Ki, Chungwha (Dept. of Retail, Hospitality, and Tourism Management, The University of Tennessee) ;
  • Kim, Youn-Kyung (Dept. of Retail, Hospitality, and Tourism Management, The University of Tennessee)
  • 투고 : 2015.10.21
  • 심사 : 2016.05.16
  • 발행 : 2016.06.30
PDF 다운로드
⟨ 이전 논문 다음 논문 ⟩

초록

This study explores whether consumers' sustainable luxury purchase (SLP), which refers to luxury consumers' conscientious purchase behavior of "buying luxury for its timeless style and durable quality that leads to extended product usage and less waste," leads to luxury consumer pleasure (LCP). Furthermore, the current study examines whether LCP leads to positive post-purchase behavior reflected by sustainable divestment intention (SDI) and repurchase intention (RI). In addition, by building on Coping Theory, we explore whether luxury consumer guilt (LCG) positively moderates the relationship between LCP and SDI. Our empirical findings of the SEM analysis based on 452 valid responses demonstrate the significant relationships between SLP and LCP, between LCP and SDI, and between LCP and RI. This implies the importance of SLP in creating a favorable consumer response, which further leads to consumers' intentions to make a sustainable divestment and to repurchase luxury. Furthermore, the critical moderating role LCG plays in the relationship between LCP and SDI was supported, stressing the importance of guilt as a trigger of consumers' sustainable divestment behavior.

키워드

참고문헌

  1. Antonetti, P., & Maklan, S. (2014). Exploring postconsumption guilt and pride in the context of sustainability. Psychology & Marketing, 31(9), 717-735. doi:10.1002/mar.20730
  2. Babin, B. J., & Babin, L. (2001). Seeking something different? A model of schema typicality, consumer affect, purchase intentions and perceived shopping value. Journal of Business Research, 54(2), 89-96. doi:10.1016/S0148-2963(99)00095-8
  3. Baumeister, R. F., Stillwell, A. M., & Heatherton, T. F. (1994). Guilt: an interpersonal approach. Psychological Bulletin, 115(2), 243-267. doi:10.1037/0033-2909.115.2.243
  4. Bendell J., & Kleanthous, A. (2007). Deeper luxury. Retrieved from WWF website: http://www.wwf.org.uk/deeperluxury/_downloads/DeeperluxuryReport.pdf.
  5. Berens, M. J. (2013, November 20). Guilt-free consumption: The new trend in luxury. Multibriefs, Retrieved from http://exclusive.multibriefs.com/content/guilt-free-consumption-the-new-trend-in-luxury/interior-designfurnishings-fixtures.
  6. Bian, Q., & Forsythe, S. (2012). Purchase intention for luxury brands: A cross cultural comparison. Journal of Business Research, 65(10), 1443-1451. doi:10.1016/j.jbusres.2011.10.010
  7. Bigne, J. E., Mattila, A. S., & Andreu, L. (2008). The impact of experiential consumption cognitions and emotions on behavioral intentions. Journal of Service Marketing, 22(4), 303-315. doi:10.1108/08876040810881704
  8. Blevis, E., Makice, K., Odom, W., Roedl, D., Beck, C., Blevis, S., & Ashok, A. (2007, August). Luxury & new luxury, quality & equality. In I. Koskinen, & T. Keinonen (Eds.), Proceedings of the 2007 conference on Designing pleasurable products and interfaces (pp. 296-311). New York, NY: ACM.
  9. Bolderdijk, J. W., & Steg, L. (2015). 21. Promoting sustainable consumption: the risks of using financial incentives. In Reisch, L. A., & Thogersen, J. (Eds.), Handbook of Research on Sustainable Consumption (pp. 328-342). Northampton, MA: Edward Elgar Publishing.
  10. Brakus, J. J., Schmitt, B. H., & Zarantonello, L. (2009). Brand experience: what is it? How is it measured? Does it affect loyalty?. Journal of Marketing, 73(3), 52-68. doi:10.1509/jmkg.73.3.52
  11. Burnett, M. S., & Lunsford, D. A. (1994). Conceptualizing guilt in the consumer decision-making process. Journal of Consumer Marketing, 11(3), 33-43. doi:10.1108/07363769410065454
  12. Carter, D. M. (2011). Recognizing the role of positive emotions in fostering environmentally responsible behaviors. Ecopsychology, 3(1), 65-69. doi:10.1089/eco.2010.0071
  13. Cho, E., Gupta, S., & Kim, Y. K. (2015). Style consumption: its drivers and role in sustainable apparel consumption. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 39(6), 661-669. doi:10.1111/ijcs.12185
  14. Clark, C. F., Kotchen, M. J., & Moore, M. R. (2003). Internal and external influences on pro-environmental behavior: Participation in a green electricity program. Journal of Environmental Psychology, 23(3), 237-246. doi:10.1016/S0272-4944(02)00105-6
  15. Cvijanovich, M. (2011). Sustainable luxury: Oxymoron? [Lecture notes]. Retrieved from: http://www.mcmdesignstudio.ch/files/Guest%20professor%20Lucern%20School%20of%20Art%20%20and%20Design.pdf.
  16. Duhachek, A. (2005). Coping: a multidimensional, hierarchical framework of responses to stressful consumption episodes. Journal of Consumer Research, 32(1), 41-53. doi:10.1086/426612
  17. Fletcher, K. (2008). Sustainable Fashion & Textiles: Design Journeys. Oxford, England: Earthscan.
  18. Folkman, S., & Lazarus, R. S. (1988). The relationship between coping and emotion: Implications for theory and research. Social Science & Medicine, 26(3), 309-317. doi:10.1016/0277-9536(88)90395-4
  19. Fornell, C., & Larcker, D. F. (1981). Evaluating structural equation models with unobservable variables and measurement error. Journal of Marketing Research, 18(2), 39-50. doi:10.2307/3151312
  20. Garg, N., Wansink, B., & Inman, J. J. (2007). The influence of incidental affect on consumers' food intake. Journal of Marketing, 71(1), 194-206. doi:10.1509/jmkg.71.1.194
  21. Gelbrich, K. (2011). I have paid less than you! The emotional and behavioral consequences of advantaged price inequality. Journal of Retailing, 87(2), 207-224. doi:10.1016/j.jretai.2011.03.003
  22. Gentry, J. W. & Gupta, S. (2013). The need for sustainable fashion and investigation as to its feasibility. In D. Zwick & S. Bosu (Eds.) 38th Macro Marketing Proceedings (pp. 156-158). Toronto, Canada: Macromarketing Society.
  23. Hagtvedt, H., & Patrick, V. M. (2009). The broad embrace of luxury: Hedonic potential as a driver of brand extendibility. Journal of Consumer Psychology, 19, 608-618. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jcps.2009.05.007
  24. Heine, K. (2014). The Luxury Brand Directory. Retrieved from http://www.conceptofluxurybrands.com/world_luxury_brand_directory.
  25. Hellier, P. K., Geursen, G. M., Carr, R. A., & Rickard, J. A. (2003). Customer repurchase intention: A general structural equation model. European Journal of Marketing, 37(11/12), 1762-1800. https://doi.org/10.1108/03090560310495456
  26. Izzo, J. (2014, November 11). Businesses need to start focusing on 'guilt-free' consumption to get ahead. Huffingtonpost, Retrieved from http://www.huffingtonpost.ca/john-izzo/guilt-free-consumption_b_6140182.html.
  27. Jackson, T. (2014). Sustainable consumption. In Atkinson, G., Dietz, S., Neumayer, E., & Agarwala, M. (Eds.). Handbook of sustainable development (pp. 254-268). Northampton, MA: Edward Elgar Publishing.
  28. Joy, A., Sherry, J. F., Venkatesh, A., Wang, J., & Chan, R. (2012). Fast fashion, sustainability, and the ethical appeal of luxury brands. Fashion Theory, 16(3), 273-296. https://doi.org/10.2752/175174112X13340749707123
  29. Kaiser, F. G., & Shimoda, T. A. (1999). Responsibility as a predictor of ecological behaviour. Journal of Environmental Psychology, 19(3), 243-253. doi:10.1108/03090560310495456
  30. Kapferer, J. N. (1997). Managing luxury brands. Journal of Brand Management, 4(4), 251-259. doi:10.1057/bm.1997.4
  31. Kapferer, J. N. (2010). All that glitters is not green: The challenge of sustainable luxury. The European Business Review, 40-45.
  32. Kapferer, J. N., & Bastien, V. (2009). The specificity of luxury management: Turning marketing upside down. Journal of Brand Management, 16(5), 311-322. doi:10.1057/bm.2008.51
  33. Kapferer, J. N., & Michaut, A. (2015). Luxury and sustainability: a common future? The match depends on how consumers define luxury. Luxury Research Journal, 1(1), 3-17. doi:10.1504/LRJ.2015.069828
  34. Kapferer, J. N., & Michaut-Denizeau, A. (2014). Is luxury compatible with sustainability & quest; Luxury consumers' viewpoint. Journal of Brand Management, 21(1), 1-22. https://doi.org/10.1057/bm.2013.19
  35. Keller, K. L. (2001). Building customer-based brand equity: creating brand resonance requires carefully sequenced brand-building efforts. Marketing Management, 10(2), 14-19.
  36. Kendall, J. (2010). Responsible luxury: A report on the new opportunities for business to make a difference. Retrieved from CIBJO website: http://www.cibjo.org/download/responsible_luxury.pdf.
  37. Ki, C., & Kim, Y. (2016). Sustainable versus conspicuous luxury fashion purchase: Applying self-determination theory. Family and Consumer Sciences Research Journal, 44(3), 309-323. doi:10.1111/fcsr.12147
  38. Ladhari, L. (2007). The effect of consumption emotion on satisfaction and word of mouth communication. Psychology & Marketing, 24(12), 1085-1108. doi:10.1002/mar.20195
  39. Lau-Gesk, L., & Meyers-Levy, J. (2009). Emotional persuasion: When the valence versus the resource demands of emotions influence consumers' attitudes. Journal of Consumer Research, 36(4), 585-599. doi:10.1086/605297
  40. Lazarus, R. S. (1966). Psychological stress and the coping process. McGraw-Hill, New York.
  41. Lee, M., Ko, E., Lee, S., & Kim, K. (2015). Understanding Luxury Disposition. Psychology & Marketing, 32(4), 467-480. doi:10.1002/mar.20792
  42. Lindsey, L. L. M. (2005). Anticipated Guilt as Behavioral Motivation: An Examination of Appeals to Help Unknown Others Through Bone Marrow Donation. Human Communication Research, 31(4), 453-481. doi:10.1093/hcr/31.4.453
  43. Markkula, A., & Moisander, J. (2012). Discursive confusion over sustainable consumption: a discursive perspective on the perplexity of marketplace knowledge. Journal of Consumer Policy, 35(1), 105-125. doi:10.1007/s10603-011-9184-3
  44. Miller, C. T., & Kaiser, C. R. (2001). A theoretical perspective on coping with stigma. Journal of Social Issues, 57(1), 73-92. doi:10.1111/0022-4537.00202
  45. Mugge, R., Schifferstein, H. N., & Schoormans, J. P. (2010). Product attachment and satisfaction: understanding consumers' post-purchase behavior. Journal of Consumer Marketing, 27(3), 271-282. doi:10.1108/07363761011038347
  46. O'Guinn, T. C., & Faber, R. J. (1989). Compulsive buying: A phenomenological exploration. Journal of Consumer Research, 16, 147-157. doi:10.1086/209204
  47. Onwezen, M. C., Bartels, J., & Antonides, G. (2014). The self-regulatory function of anticipated pride and guilt in a sustainable and healthy consumption context. European Journal of Social Psychology, 44(1), 53-68. doi:10.1002/ejsp.1991
  48. Pirisi, A. (1995). Addicted to the urge to splurge. Maclean's, 108(50), 58-60.
  49. Rook, D. W. (1987). The buying impulse. Journal of Consumer Research, 14, 189-199. doi:10.1086/209105
  50. Shim, S. (1995). Environmentalism and consumers' clothing disposal patterns: an exploratory study. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 13(1), 38-48. doi:10.1177/0887302X9501300105
  51. Simkus, L. (2010). Sustainability within the French Luxury Consumer-Goods Market: The Role of Business and Consumer Demand. Best Business Research Papers, 3, 71-85.
  52. Soscia, I. (2007). Gratitude, delight, or guilt: The role of consumers' emotions in predicting postconsumption behaviors. Psychology & Marketing, 24(10), 871-894. doi:10.1002/mar.20188
  53. Steenkamp, J. & Trijp, H. (1991). The use of LISREL in validating marketing constructs. International Journal of Research in Marketing, 8, 283-299. doi:10.1016/0167-8116(91)90027-5
  54. Tangney, J. P., Miller, R. S., Flicker, L., & Barlow, D. H. (1996). Are shame, guilt, and embarrassment distinct emotions?. Journal of Personality and Social Psychology, 70(6), 1256-1269. doi:10.1037/0022-3514.70.6.1256
  55. Tobin, D. L., Holroyd, K. A., Reynolds, R. V., & Wigal, J. K. (1989). The hierarchical factor structure of the Coping Strategies Inventory. Cognitive Therapy and Research, 13(4), 343-361. doi:10.1007/BF01173478
  56. Truong, Y., & McColl, R. (2011). Intrinsic motivations, self-esteem, and luxury goods consumption. Journal of Retailing and Consumer Services, 18(6), 555-561. doi:10.1016/j.jretconser.2011.08.004
  57. United Nations Environment Programme. (2011). Visions for Change: Recommendations for Effective Policies on Sustainable Lifestyles, Paris, France: United Nations Environment Programme.
  58. Vigneron, F., & Johnson, L. W. (2004). Measuring perceptions of brand luxury. The Journal of Brand Management, 11(6), 484-506. doi:10.1057/palgrave.bm.2540194
  59. Wood, W. (2000). Attitude change: persuasion and social influence. Annual Review of Psychology, 51(1), 539-570. doi:10.1146/annurev.psych.51.1.539
  60. World Commission on Environment and Development (1987). Our Common Future. Oxford, England: Oxford University Press.
  61. Young, W., Hwang, K., McDonald, S., & Oates, C. J. (2010). Sustainable consumption: green consumer behaviour when purchasing products. Sustainable Development, 18(1), 20-31. doi:10.1002/sd.394
  62. Yu, Y. T., & Dean, A. (2001). The contribution of emotional satisfaction to consumer loyalty. International Journal of Service Industry Management, 12(3), 234-250. doi:10.1108/09564230110393239

피인용 문헌

  1. CSR Activities and Their Impact on Brand Value in Food Enterprises in Slovakia Based on Foreign Participation vol.12, pp.12, 2016, https://doi.org/10.3390/su12124856
  2. Launch of Sustainable Plastic Apparel: Effects of Brand Luxury and Experience on Consumer Behaviour vol.12, pp.18, 2016, https://doi.org/10.3390/su12187662
  3. Sustainable what…? The role of corporate websites in communicating material innovations in the luxury fashion industry vol.7, pp.1, 2016, https://doi.org/10.1386/dbs_00021_1