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Numerical Simulation of Winter Waves and Currents in the Haeundae Coast using 2DH Model

해운대의 겨울철 파랑 및 흐름에 대한 평면 2차원 수치모델링

  • Yoo, Jeseon (Operational Oceanography Research Center, Korea Institute of Ocean Science & Technology) ;
  • Swinkels, Cilia (Harbours, Coastal and Offshore Engineering, Deltares) ;
  • Do, Kideok (Operational Oceanography Research Center, Korea Institute of Ocean Science & Technology)
  • 유제선 (한국해양과학기술원 운용해양예보연구센터) ;
  • ;
  • 도기덕 (한국해양과학기술원 운용해양예보연구센터)
  • Received : 2016.11.28
  • Accepted : 2016.12.20
  • Published : 2016.12.31

Abstract

In order to investigate characteristics of waves and currents varying in space in the Haeundae coast in winter, numerical simulations by using a 2-D spectral wave model(SWAN) and 2-DH hydrodynamic model(Delft3D) were carried out in this study. The results of numerical simulations were validated with the field data collected at several different locations in the study area in February, 2014. From the numerical simulations, it was found that waves and currents were significantly influenced in terms of direction and magnitude by bottom topography characterized by straggling rock crops covered with sea grasses. The coupling of SWAN and Delft3D models also revealed that alongshore currents directing from the east to the west were developed in the nearshore, due to the influence of larger waves with the main incident direction from the east.

겨울철 해운대 해역에서 발생하는 파랑 및 흐름에 대한 공간적 변화특성을 살펴보기 위하여, 평면 2차원 파랑변형 모델(SWAN)과 수심평균 2차원 해수유동 모델(Delft3D)을 사용하여 수치실험을 수행하였다. 2014년 2월 중 해운대 여러 정점에서 관측한 현장자료를 사용하여 수치모델을 검증하였다. 두 모델의 보정결과로부터 발견된 파랑 및 흐름의 특징 중 하나는, 해저면에 곳곳에 돌출되어 자리잡고 있는 암반지형의 영향으로 파고 및 파향 뿐만 아니라 유속 및 유향도 만내로 들어올수록 외해역과 다르게 크게 변형되어 나타난다는 것이다. 두 모델의 커플링을 통하여 겨울철 입사파를 고려한 연안 해수유동 모델링 결과, 해안선 인근 천해에서는 겨울철에 발생하는 동쪽(E)계열의 입사파의 영향으로 파고가 높을수록 동에서 서로 흐르는 연안류도 크게 발달하고 조석에 의한 조류의 세기는 상대적으로 약한 것으로 나타났다.

Keywords

References

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