Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology (한국해양공학회지)

Korean Society of Ocean Engineers (한국해양공학회)
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Wave-induced Currents using XBEACH Model after Beach Nourishment at Haeundae Beach

XBEACH 모형에 의한 해운대 해수욕장 양빈후의 해빈류 특성 변화

  • Kang, Tae-Soon (Department of Coastal Management, GeoSystem Research Corp.) ;
  • Park, Myeong-Won (Oceanographic Observation Division, Korea Hydrographic and Oceanographic Agency) ;
  • Kim, Jin-Seok (Department of Coastal Management, GeoSystem Research Corp.) ;
  • Lee, Jong-Sup (Department of Civil Engineering, Pukyong National University)
  • 강태순 ((주)지오시스템리서치 연안관리부) ;
  • 박명원 (국립해양조사원 해양관측과) ;
  • 김진석 ((주)지오시스템리서치 연안관리부) ;
  • 이종섭 (부경대학교 토목공학과)
  • Received : 2015.10.16
  • Accepted : 2016.12.16
  • Published : 2016.12.31
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Abstract

In this study, to predict the effect of beach nourishment at Haeundae Beach, the waves and wave-induced currents were compared before and after beach nourishment using the XBEACH model. Representative wave conditions were determined for the data observed during 2014 (KHOA). Then, the Hs,max and Hs,1/10 values, and their prevalent directions, were used in the numerical modeling input data. A variable grid system was used for the $5km{\times}2.5km$ model areas, and irregular waves based on the JONSWAP spectrum were given as incident wave conditions. In the summer season, eastward wave-induced currents were developed along the beach by the incident wave direction. Before the beach nourishment, the maximum speed around the surf zone was 1.2-1.5 m/s in the central zone of the beach, whereas the maximum speed increased to 1.4-1.6 m/s at the same areas when the currents toward Mipo Harbor were blocked as an effect of the groins after the beach nourishment. In the winter season, westward wave-induced currents were developed along the beach by the incident wave direction. After the beach nourishment, the maximum current speed increased slightly around the surf zone in the central area of the beach, and the littoral current speed decreased at the submerged breakwaters located at Dongbaek Island. As a result, after the beach nourishment, the maximum wave-induced currents increased about 10% in the surf zone of the central area of the beach.

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References

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