복식 (Journal of the Korean Society of Costume)

  • 제66권8호
  • /
  • Pages.157-172
  • /
  • 2016
  • /
  • 1229-6880(pISSN)
  • /
  • 2287-7827(eISSN)
한국복식학회 (The Korean Society of Costume)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

19세기 프랑스 패턴북에 나타난 남성복식체계 및 유형변화 - 겉상의의 외투류 및 중간겉상의를 중심으로 -

Study on the System and Evolution of Type of Men's Costume on the Pattern Books of France in the 19th Century - Focusing on Overcoat and Top-exterior-and-interior(outside) -

  • 김양희 (인하대학교 의류디자인학과) ;
  • 류경화 (인하대학교 대학원 의류학과)
  • Kim, Yang-Hee (Dept. of Fashion Design & Textiles, Inha University) ;
  • Ryu, Kyung-Hwa (Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Graduate School, Inha University)
  • 투고 : 2016.11.16
  • 심사 : 2016.12.15
  • 발행 : 2016.12.31
PDF 다운로드
⟨ 이전 논문 다음 논문 ⟩

초록

This study aims to present findings of historical design trends of men's fashion, and the characteristics of changes in the types of overcoats and mid jackets shown in French pattern books of the 19th century. The primary data sources for this study comprised one pattern book, each of the17th and 18th century, and 15 pattern books of the 19th century, all of which are conserved by the French National Library. The study methods are as follows: First, analysis of men's fashion trends and the characteristics of changes by type as shown in French pattern books of the 17th to 19th centuries. Second, analysis of the evolution of type of men's overcoats and top-exterior- and-interior (outside) styles shown in French pattern books of the 19th century. As a result, a total of 69 type references were collected from French pattern books of the 17th to 19th centuries. Historically, men's fashion was largely classified into top-exterior, top-exterior-and-interior, top-interior, bottoms and accessories. The two major classifications were as follows: top-exteriors overcoats and robes, And top-exterior-and-interior as top-exterior-and-interior(outside) and top-exterior-and-interior (inside). The study also identified the forms and changes by type. Additionally, this study selected overcoats and top-exterior-and-interior(outside) which fall under typical categories to show the change in the forms of men's fashion of the 19th century. These changes in the types were designated as: continued, faded away, newly appeared and transformed. This study analyzed the time of appearance of the forms by the year of publishing in conjunction with cultural references from previous domestic and international studies. The results showed that the time of changes in the types shown in pattern books did not deviate from the mainstream, which verified their typicality.

키워드

참고문헌

  1. Barde, F. -A. (1834). Traite encyclopedique de l'art du tailleur. Paris, France: L'auteur.
  2. Bentayou, P. -Jules. (v. 1885). Methode pratique de coupe par les mesures deposee de P.-Jules Bentayou, tailleur. Orleans, France: Impr. de G. Michau.
  3. Boucher, F. (1965). Histoire du costume en Occident de l'Antiquite a nos jours. Paris, France: Flammarion.
  4. Boully, B. (1671). Le tailleur sincere. Paris, France: BNF.
  5. Chevallier, C. (1856-1860). Le Progres du tailleur, ou l'art d'apprendre a couper seul, le systeme de mesurage de C. Chevallier. Paris, France: Impr. de A. Lacour.
  6. Compaing, M. (1828). L'art du tailleur, ou Application de la geometrie a la coupe de l'habillement. Paris, France: Dondey-Dupre pere et fils.
  7. Dartmann, G. -H. (1837). Manuel du tailleur. Paris, France: Hautecoeur.
  8. Despax, J. (1871). Le livre tailleur, enseignant la coupe des vetements en quinze minutes avec demonstrations et en une heure sans maitre. Paris, France: Les Principaux Libraires.
  9. Despax, J. (1873). Une merveille de l'art. Extrait du "Livre-tailleur enseignant la coupe des vetements en quinze minutes avec demonstrations et en une heure sans maitre". Paris, France: Principaux Libraires.
  10. Duflos-Priot, M. Th. (1988). Sytsteme descriptif du costume traditionnel francais. Typologie du vetement et du couvre-chef. Matieres, morphologie, decor. Aspects culturels. Paris, France: Editions e la Reunion des Musee Nationaux.
  11. Entwistle, J. (2013). The Fashioned body (K. H. Choi Trans.). Seoul, Republic of Korea: Hansung University Press. (Original work published 2000)
  12. Garnot, B. (1991). Societe, cultures et genres de vie dans la France moderne XVIe-XVIIIe siecle. Paris, France: Hachette.
  13. Grasault, F. A. (1769). L'art du tailleur. Paris, France: BNF.
  14. Grawitz, M. (1996). Methodes des sciences sociales. Paris, France: Dalloz.
  15. Jung, H. S. (2014). A history of fashion. Paju, Republic of Korea: Gyomoon.
  16. Koh, A. R. (2008). A Fashion culture and history. Paju, Republic of Korea: Gyomoon.
  17. Kidwell, C. B. (1979). Cutting a fashionable fit: dressmakers' drafting systems in the United States. Washington, USA: Smithsonian Institution Press.
  18. Kim, M. J., Choi, H. S., Kim, Y. H., Ha, J. S. & Choi, S. H. (2010). Western fashion multi-contents. Paju, Republic of Korea: Gyomoon.
  19. Kim, S. Y. & Nam, Y. J. (2002). A comparison on the form in women's hanbok between the later Chosun dynasty and modern times: applying Delong's dividing system for apparel body construct. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 52(5), 61-77.
  20. Kim, Y. H. (2012). A study on 17th and 18th century common people's costumes in France. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 36(9), 901-915. https://doi.org/10.5850/JKSCT.2012.36.9.901
  21. Kim, Y. H. & Jung, S. H. (2007). Study on French man's clothing design and construction of the early 17th century. The Korean Society of Fashion Design, 7(2), 103-118.
  22. La Bye, H. -C. (1869). Nouvelle theorie de la coupe. Paris, France: BNF.
  23. Ladeveze, F. (1874). Cours de coupe du tailleur de Paris, ou l'art d'apprendre a couper et confectionner les habits d'apres le systeme actuel de mesurage. Paris, France: Bureau du "Musee des tailleurs illustre".
  24. Lavigne,. (1843). Methode du tailleur, ou Traite complet de coupe mis a la portee de tous les praticiens. Paris, France: L'auteur.
  25. Leclaire,. (1855). L'Art du tailleur, ou Theorie explicative et pratique de tout ce qui concerne les vetements civil et militaire. Paris, France: L'auteur.
  26. Leloir, M. (1951). Dictionnaire de costume de l'Antiquite a 1914. Paris, France: Librairie Grund.
  27. Lipovetsky, G. (1999). L'empire de l'ephemere (D. J. Lee Trans.). Seoul, Republic of Korea: Moonye Publishing. (Original work published 1991)
  28. Peitsch, J. (2013). On different types of women's dresses in France in the Louis XI period. Fashion Theory, 17(4), 397-416. https://doi.org/10.2752/175174113X13673474643084
  29. Perrot, Ph. (2007). Les dessus et les dessous de la bourgeoisie (J. H. Lee Trans.). Seoul, Republic of Korea: Sibylle books literary agency. (Original work published 1981)
  30. Ryu, K. H., & Kim, Y. H. (2015). A Study of the Historical Reconstruction of the Western Man's Coat in the Early of the 19th Century. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 65(1), 136-149.
  31. Shin, S. O. (2016). A history of fashion. Seoul, Republic of Korea: Soohak.
  32. Thirifocq (1881). Le nouveau livre du tailleur. Traite complet de la coupe des vetements d'homme. Paris, France: F. Malteste.
  33. Vandael, M. (1833). Manuel theorique et pratique du tailleur, ou Traite complet et simplifie de cet art, contenant la maniere de tracer, couper et confectionner les vetemens. Paris, France: Roret.

피인용 문헌

  1. 19세기 하반기 프랑스 남성복 유물의 3D 고증에 의한 패턴 제작에 관한 연구 - 르뎅고뜨(Redingote)와 자께뜨(Jaquette)를 중심으로 - vol.22, pp.1, 2016, https://doi.org/10.5805/sfti.2020.22.1.11