DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

Design Characteristics of Contemporary Male Skirt and Expansion of the Masculine Image

현대 남성 스커트의 성별이미지에 따른 디자인 특성과 남성적 이미지의 확장

  • Ryu, Limjeong (Dept. of Human Environment & Design, Yonsei University) ;
  • Lee, Jeehyun (Dept. of Human Environment & Design, Yonsei University)
  • 류림정 (연세대학교 생활디자인학과) ;
  • 이지현 (연세대학교 생활디자인학과)
  • Received : 2015.02.23
  • Accepted : 2015.04.25
  • Published : 2015.06.30

Abstract

Male skirt is found in traditional costumes all over the world. Due to the development of tailoring skills in the early Middle ages, men started wearing breeches and pantaloons gradually distinguishing the different characteristics of menswear and womenswear. Since then, skirt became the strong representation of the female gender, symbolizing the feminism. However, under the influences of technological development and diversification in 2000s, gender identity has been diversely expressed in modern fashion allowing male gender to embrace different sexual identities. The purpose of the study is to analyze the nature of male skirts, which have been popularized in modern men's fashion through both the expressional elements and compositional elements. This study associates design elements of male skirt, gradually appearing in the contemporary men's fashion with the sexual symbolism and reinterpreted it's significance in the flow of the modern fashion. Reinterpretation of the gender image in costumes are considered to contribute to the cultural context and extension in diversity. These research results forms a basic foundation to expand in studies of men's fashion design and gender image of costumes through cultural contexts and it's changes. It is considered that this can lay groundwork to make various attempts at passing over the archetype of the gender image besides the continuous appearance of male skirt in the field of fashion design.

Keywords

References

  1. Bang, S. R. (2007). Symbolism on men's skirt of the west and the east. Journal of Korean Traditional Costume, 10(2), 67-82.
  2. Calasibetta, C. M., Tortora, P. G., & Abling, B. (2003). The Fairchild Dictionary of Fashion. New York: Fairchild Pubns.
  3. 'Jean Paul Gaultier 2011 F/W'. (n. d.). Style.com. Retrieved March 27, 2014, from http://media.style.com/image/ts/slideshows/2011/fashionshows/F2011MEN/JPGAULTI/RUNWAY/683/1024/00040fullscreen.jpg.
  4. Kim, Y. J. (1992). Beauty of Korean clothes. Seoul: Minumsa.
  5. Kim, Y. J. (2003). Fashion design for the practice. Seoul: Kyongchunsa.
  6. Kim, S. Y. (1995). The androgynous tendency in the plastic elements of the modern men's wear. Unpublished master's thesis, Kyonghee University, Seoul.
  7. Lee, H. J., & Park, O. L. (2005). The relationship of factor of feminization in men's fashion and sex role stereotype-the viewpoint of 20's-30's womens. Journal of the Korean Association of Human Ecology, 14(6), 1027-1035.
  8. Lee, J. H. (2010). Diachronic analysis of Korean men's wear design based on changes in gender roles. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 60(8), 51-66.
  9. Lee, M. S. (1993). Historical study on the visual inconsistency of sexual image in dress. Unpublished master's thesis, Seoul National University, Seoul.
  10. Lee, Y. M., & Lee, Y. H. (2005a). Orientalism in Modern Men's Skirt Fashion. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 13(1), 133-149.
  11. Lee, Y. M., & Lee, Y. H. (2005b). Male gender identity appeared in a skirt - Focused on scottish kilt. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, Spring Conference, Korea, pp. 59-61.
  12. Lee, Y. M., Lee, Y. H., & Lee, Y. M. (2004). A study on the male skirt in modern fashion - Focused on the history of male skirt. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, Spring Conference, Korea, pp. 133-136.
  13. 'Menswear E Tautz 14 S/S'. (2013, June 18). Vogue. Retrieved March 20, 2014, from http://cdni.condenast.co.uk/592x888/Shows/SS2014/London/Mens/e_tautz/00210h_592x888.jpg.
  14. 'Menswear Givenchy 2011 S/S'. (2010, June 25). Style.com. Retrieved May 17, 2014, from http://cdni.condenast.co.uk/1280x1920/Shows/SS2011/Paris/Mens/Givenchy/00170big.jpg.
  15. 'Menswear Raf Simons 2011 S/S'. (2010, June 26). Style.com. Retrieved May 20, 2014, from http://media.style.com/image/ts/slideshows/2010/fashionshows/S2011MEN/RSIMONS/RUNWAY/683/1024/00210fullscreen.jpg.
  16. Naomi, A. (1999). Flat composition. (H. S. Kim & Y. Jo, Trans.). Seoul: Johyungsa.
  17. Oh, H. S., & Park, H. S. (2001). Design for fashion. Seoul: Kyongchunsa.
  18. Park, M. R. (1995). Study on the feminization of menswear-focusing on 1991 to 1995. Unpublished master's thesis, Dongduk women's University, Seoul.
  19. 'Ready-to-wear RAD by Rad Hourani 2012 S/S'. (2011, September 13). Vogue. Retrieved March 20, 2014, from http://cdni.condenast.co.uk/592x888/Shows/SS2012/New_York/R-T-W/rad_by_rad_hourani/00030big_592x888.jpg
  20. Son, N. R. (2001). The objectified expressional characteristics of depaysement and its emotional impact-Focusing on contemporary food and beverage space. Unpublished master's thesis, Chosun University, Gwangju.
  21. 'Thom Browne 2011 F/W'. (n.d.). Style.com. Retrieved May 02, 2014, http://img2.doosanmagazine.gscdn.com/collection/season/49/2011_fw_mens_thombrowne_f35h.jpg.
  22. Woo, J. I. (2004). A study on men's skirts in modern fashion. Unpublished master's thesis, Hongik University, Seoul.
  23. Yasuro, O. (2010). World ethnic costume-clothing and cultural anthropology. (W. H. Jo & C. S. Park, Trans.). Seoul: Minsokwon.