Journal of the Korean Society of Costume (복식)

The Korean Society of Costume (한국복식학회)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

A Study on Women's Headgear of Muslim Ethnic Minority in Xinjiang Uygur

신장자치구 무슬림계 소수민족 여성쓰개에 관한 고찰

  • Kang, Soo Ah (Dept. of Fashion Design, Sungkyunkwan University) ;
  • Cho, Woo Hyun (Dept. of Fashion Design, Sungkyunkwan University)
  • Received : 2015.03.23
  • Accepted : 2015.04.30
  • Published : 2015.06.30
Download PDF
⟨ Previous Next ⟩

Abstract

Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region is the area with the most Muslim populations in China and the costume of this ethnic minority group was influenced from its surrounding environment and religion. Headgear is one of the important costume elements of Muslim ethnic minority such as Kazakh, Kirghiz, Uzbek, and Tadzhik people, and each group has developed narious forms of it. Especially, we can notice characteristics of headgear in Xinjiang Uygur and four ethnic minority groups through women's headgear pursuant to motive of wear, classification of type, differences and comparability with other areas. Thus, purpose of this study is to investigate women's headgear of Muslim ethnic minority in Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region. Based on local data at the Xinjiang Uygur Museum, the study referred to Chinese ethnic minority costume and literature data as well as advanced researches related to Islam, and analyzed characteristics of women's headgear of four ethnic groups in connection with Muslim formation background in Xinjiang Uygur. Women's headgear of Muslim ethnic minority in Xinjiang Uygur can be largely divided into three types; cylindrical, conical and hood type. Headgear was influenced not only by natural environment and weather for protection of body, but also by Islam. Along with strong desire for decoration and expression of racial features, it was used as a means of race discrimination and representation of identity. The religion of Islam within these four ethnic groups grew in accordance with tradition of existing nomadic tribes and regional characteristics, and women's headgear developed in various ways added with religious precepts and nomadic features. Taking everything into consideration, it is found that women's headgear of Kazakh, Kirghiz, Uzbek, and Tadzhik people developed, adopting their own living style and features of minority races instead of remaining identical to the headgear type of Muslim countries in other area.

Keywords

References

  1. Album. (1996). Kazakh costume [kа3аk knimi]. Almaty, Kazakhstan: Oner.
  2. Battolga. (2009). Kazak custom. Asian Comparative Folklore Society, 40, 77-102.
  3. China. (n.d.). In Encyclopedia of Korean Culture online. Retrieved from http://encykorea.aks.ac.kr/Contents/Index/china
  4. Cho, S. (1993). The study for mongolian hat: A point of view for u yadamsuren's hat paint (Unpublished master's thesis). Seoul Woman's University, Seoul, Republic of Korea.
  5. Choi, S. B. & Cho, W. H. (2000). A comparative study of headgear among the eastern slavs; focus on the unmarried and married women. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 50(1), 33-49.
  6. Corpus of Chinese Fabric, Embroidery and Finery Editorial Board. (Ed.) (2005). Corpus of chinese fabric, embroidery and finery, Vol 5: clothing of national minorities. Tianjin, China: Tianjin People's Fine Arts Publishing House.
  7. Dabata, H., Kanamaru, Y., Sinmen, Y., Majjeuoka, M., Swo, W., Christian, D. (2006). Chinese minority introduction [중국소수민족 입문]. (J. S. Won, & Y. J. Lee, Trans.). Seoul, Republic of Korea: Hyunhaksa.
  8. Elechek (n.d.). Karakalpak online. Retrieved from http://karakalpak.com/index.html
  9. Frances, K. & Caroline, M. (1994). World dress. London, England: Mitchell Beazley.
  10. Gong, B. J., Lee, K. I. & Cho, Y. K. (2011). A book to read chinese culture [한 권으로 읽는 중국문화] (2nd ed.). Busan, Republic of Korea: Sanzini.
  11. Han, S. & Cho, O. (1997). A study on the costumes of the minority peoples of west-north in china, Changwon National University; Journal of Human Ecology. first issue, 23-52.
  12. Hong, N. Y. (1987). A study of woman's veils (Doctoral dissertation, Ewha Woman's University, Republic of Korea). Retrieved from http://dcollection.ewha.ac.kr/jsp/common/DcLoOrgPer.jsp?sItemId=000000000342
  13. Hua, M. (1992). China history of costume [중국복식사]. (S. S. Park, & S. W. Lee, Trans.). Seoul, Republic of Korea: Kyungchun Publishing Co.
  14. Hua, Z. (2014). The use of chinese traditional elements in fashion photography (Unpublished master's thesis). Chung-Ang University, Seoul, Republic of Korea.
  15. Hwang, B. H. (2009). A study on the history of islam in xinjiang and china's policy on islam, Korea Association of the Middle East Studies, 30(1), 107-140.
  16. Ileki (n.d.). Retrieved from http://karakalpak.com/index.html
  17. Islam (n.d.). In doopedia online. Retrieved from http://terms.naver.com/entry.nhn?docId=1135007&cid=40942&categoryId=31600
  18. Jabeurieba, M., Jeong, I. H. & Cho, Y. J. (2008). Culture of uzbekistan who according to the costume adaptation mechanism analysis, The Korean Society of Clothing and Textile, 1, 205-205.
  19. Jang, J. (2010). A study on folk festival "navruz" of central asia, Asian Comparative Folklore Society, 43, 149-186.
  20. Jeong, J. N. (2007). Chinese ethnic studies; china based on the ethnic minorities [중국 소수민족 연구: 소수민족으로 분석하는 중국] (1st ed.). Paju, Republic of Korea: KSI.
  21. Jeong, J. N. (2008). Chinese minorities [중국의 소수민족] (1st ed.). Paju, Republic of Korea: Sallim publishing house.
  22. Jeong, H. R. (2008). Stepping into the xinjiang [중국으로 들어서다] (1st ed.). Urumuqi, China: Xinjiang- Photographing art publishing houses publishing.
  23. Johannes, K. & Margareta, P. (2003). Uzbekistan: heirs to the silk road. Thames & Hudson.
  24. Kang, S. & Jeon, H. (2003). A study on the character of costume of Islam, The Catholic University of Korea; Journal of Human Science, 23(1), 137-152.
  25. Kim, B. M. (1998). Secret of the gold crown; Locate korea and kim's headwaters antiquities [금관의 비밀: 한국고대사와 김씨의 원류를 찾아서] (1st ed.). Seoul, Republic of Korea: Pureunyeoksa.
  26. Kim, I. H. (2010). 1300 years old, diaspora goguryeo migrants [1300년 디아스포라 고구려 유민] (1st ed.). Seoul, Republic of Korea: Pureunyeoksa.
  27. Kim, I. (2002). The analysis of nationality headgear: emphasis area․gender․symbolism (Unpublished master's thesis). Chungnam National Universty, Daejeon, Republic of Korea.
  28. Kim, I. S., Kwak, J. I., Im, Y. G., Kwak, J. O., Kim, G. W., Kim, N. W., . . . Lee, S. B. (2008). Central asia's giants, kazakhstan [중앙아시아의 거인, 카자흐스탄] (1st ed.). Seoul, Republic of Korea: Gungri-publishing.
  29. Kim, S. K. (2008). Center on the silk road, uzbekistan [실크로드의 중심지, 우즈베키스탄] (2nd ed.). Seoul, Republic of Korea: Myeongseongseorim.
  30. Kim, S. H. (2003). Hobok; Costume of the silk road [호복: 실크로드의 복식] (1st ed.). Seoul, Republic of Korea: Minsokwon.
  31. Kim, S. J. (2007). Chinese minorities [중국소수민족] (1st ed.). Daejeon, Republic of Korea: Baejae University Press.
  32. Kim, Y. M. (2000). The costume of tajik and korea, The central music research, 8-9, 85-106.
  33. Kim, Y. S. (2002). Koran (5th ed.). Seoul, Republic of Korea: Myungmundang.
  34. Kwon, H. J. (1995). Ethnic minorities' costumes in and around silk road; nationalities of the xinjiang uighur autonomous region, Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 24, 103-120.
  35. Li, B. (2012). A study on the ethnic costumes of the minority nationalities of the chinese muslims (Unpublished master's thesis). Chung-Ang University, Seoul, Republic of Korea.
  36. Lyachek (n.d.). Retrieved from http://karakalpak.com/index.html
  37. Macheumoto, T. (1985). Ethnic clothing in the world 2. Osaka, Japan: Kwanseo Clothing and Textiles Research.
  38. Min, B. H. (1999). Western turkestan religious denominations ruins and excavated relics; Focus on buddhism and zoroastrianism, The Association of Art History, 13, 153-180.
  39. Oh, E. K. (2006). Inside the islamic veil and woman [베일 속의 이슬람과 여성] (1st ed.). Seoul, Republic of Korea: Phronesis.
  40. Oh, C. J. (1990). Etude de la costume 1'asie centrale; costume de tadzhik, Chungnam Journal of human ecology, 3(1), 1-26.
  41. Park, C. S. (1995). A study on the minorities in china costumes 1: focusing on ethnic minorities in northeast, northwest, Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 26, 175-207.
  42. Park, C. S. & Cho, W. H. (2002). Chinese minority costume [중국 소수민족 복식] (1st ed.). Seoul, Republic of Korea: Minsokwon.
  43. Park, H. Y. & Cho, W. H.(2006). A study on the folk of uzbekistan's costumes, Korea Fashion & Costume Design Association. 12, 57-60.
  44. Park, J. W. (2006). China's religious history: In taoism to falun gong [중국 종교의 역사: 도교에서 파룬궁까지] (1st ed.). Paju, Republic of Korea: Sallim publishing house.
  45. Park, S. N. (2010). Central asia (1st ed.). Osan, Republic of Korea: Hanshin University Press.
  46. Patricia, R. (2009). The worldwide history of dress. (The Korean Society of Costume, Trans.). Goyang, Republic of Korea: Wisdom House, Yedam.
  47. Seo, B. H. (2014). A comparative study on characteristics and aesthetic value of asian traditional costumes: emphasis on buddhist, hindu and islamic costumes, Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 64(6), 57-59. https://doi.org/10.7233/jksc.2014.64.7.057
  48. Seong, D. K. (2013, Sep). Central Asia's traditional hat makes it distinct ethnic identity [PDF document]. Chindia plus. 84. Retrieved from https://www.posri.re.kr/issue/download_ajax/file_id/5705
  49. Shanghai academy comedy Chinese people balsik Editional board. (Ed.) (1999). Chinese people balsik [中國民族髮飾]. Chengdu, China: Sacheoninminpublishing house.
  50. Shim, H. C. (2006). A study on impacts of economic development in china on religious change in northwestern ethnic minorities: weiwuer and yugu, Institute of Chinese Studies, Hankuk University of Foreign St. 38, 227-242.
  51. Shin, I. S. & Je, Y. (2001). A study on the kazakh, kirgiz, tajik tribe costume and textile, Fashion & Textile Reserch Journal. 3(2), 105-114.
  52. Shin, T. S. (2009). Muslim uighurs and china [위구르와 중국 이슬람]. (1st ed.). Deajeon, Republic of Korea: Jongryeonamu.
  53. Soh, H. O. & Kim, Y. H. (2008). Chinese minority and costume [중국 소수민족과 복식]. (1st ed.). Seoul, Republic of Korea: Kyungchun Publishing Co.
  54. Sohn, K. K. (1998). Islam in china, The Korean Muslim Society, 8(1), 165-181.
  55. Son, K. J. (1991). Dusikko of mongolian[蒙古族의 頭飾考], Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 17, 247-248.
  56. Son, M. R. (2004). Chinese minority religious studies (Unpublished master's thesis). Youngnam Theological University and Seminary, Gyeongsan, Republic of Korea.
  57. Wang, F. (1986). Ethnic Costumes And Clothing Decorations From China. Shanghai, China: Hai Feng Publishing Co.
  58. Wang, H. Y. (2013). A Study on the women's headdress of yi nationality in china (Unpublished master's thesis). Chung-Ang University, Seoul, Republic of Korea.
  59. Yoo, T. S., Cho, G. Y., Kim, Y. R., Jeong, Y. H., Hwang, Y. J., Cho, E. Y. & Kim, H. H. (2006). Folk costumes of the world (1st ed.). Seoul, Republic of Korea: Sinjeong.
  60. Yoo, T. & Kim, J. (1999). Geographical of the world folk headdress types, Fashion & Textile Reserch Journal, 1(3), 246-251.

Cited by

  1. A Study on the Formation Factors and Characters of Yi Women's Headdress in China vol.67, pp.3, 2017, https://doi.org/10.7233/jksc.2017.67.3.066
  2. A Study on the Formative Relationship between Islamic Religious Clothing and Minority Women's Clothing in the Northwestern China vol.69, pp.5, 2019, https://doi.org/10.7233/jksc.2019.69.5.015
  3. 중국 서북지역 하자크족과 타지크족 여성 민속복식과 종교복식의 유사성 연구 vol.23, pp.5, 2015, https://doi.org/10.12940/jfb.2019.23.5.48
  4. 동남아시아 무슬림 여성 의복의 패션화 연구 -인도네시아·말레이시아를 중심으로- vol.24, pp.2, 2015, https://doi.org/10.12940/jfb.2020.24.2.85