Korean Chemical Engineering Research

The Korean Institute of Chemical Engineers (한국화학공학회)
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Functional Cosmetic Characteristics of Momordica charantia Fruit Extract

여주 열매 추출물의 기능성화장품 소재 특성

  • Kim, Hyun-Woo (Department of Pharmaceutical Engineering, Inje University) ;
  • Shin, Hyejin (Department of Pharmaceutical Engineering, Inje University) ;
  • Hwang, Danbi (Department of Pharmaceutical Engineering, Inje University) ;
  • Lee, Jieun (Department of Pharmaceutical Engineering, Inje University) ;
  • Jeong, Hyangli (Department of Pharmaceutical Engineering, Inje University) ;
  • Kim, Donguk (Department of Pharmaceutical Engineering, Inje University)
  • Received : 2014.08.26
  • Accepted : 2014.10.11
  • Published : 2015.06.01
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Abstract

In this research, water and ethanol extract of Momordica charantia shells, fruits and seeds were tested to see possibility as natural functional cosmetic agent. Water and ethanol extract showed 69.45 mg/g and 70.87 mg/g polyphenol concentration, respectively. Momordica charantia water and ethanol extracts did not indicate cell toxicity up to $1,000{\mu}g/ml$ concentration in MTT assay. Tyrosinase inhibition effects of water and ethanol extract were lower than arbutin, however, ethanol extract showed better DOPA oxidation inhibition effect than arbutin. Elastase inhibition effects of ethanol extract displayed similar efficacy with adenosine at higher concentrations. Solution formulations (5% extract) were stable for 28 days in both extracts, however, lotion formulation (1% extract) showed considerable variation in viscosity whereas ethanol extraction indicated relative stability. In conclusion, water and ethanol extract of Momordica charantia shells, fruits and seeds indicated strong possibility for whitening and antiwrinkle functional cosmetic ingredient.

본 연구에서는 여주열매의 열수 및 에탄올 추출물에서 기능성화장품소재로서의 가능성을 검토하였다. 여주열매의 열수 및 에탄올 추출물은 유효성분으로 폴리페놀의 함량이 각각 $69.45{\pm}0.07mg/g$, $70.87{\pm}0.06mg/g$로 높은 농도를 나타내었다. 여주열매의 열수 및 에탄올 추출물은 세포독성시험(MTT assay) 결과, $100{\sim}1,000{\mu}g/ml$ 범위의 농도에서 전혀 세포독성을 나타내지 않았다. 미백효과 시험결과 tyrosinase 억제능은 대조군인 arbutin 보다는 다소 낮았으나, DOPA 산화억제효과는 arbutin 보다 우수하였다. 주름개선 효과는 elastase 억제효과로 평가되었으며 열수 및 에탄올 추출물은 대조군인 adenosine 보다는 다소 떨어졌으나 농도가 증가할수록 비슷한 수치를 보여주었다. 여주열매 추출물을 함유한 액제 및 로션제의 온도 안정성 시험결과, 액제는 28일 동안 pH, 점도, 외관의 변화가 안정적이었으나 로션 제형의 경우 점도의 변화가 심하여 제형의 보완이 필요한 것으로 나타났다. 따라서 여주열매의 열수 및 에탄올 추출물은 필요에 따라 미백 혹은 주름개선 기능성화장품소재로서 높은 가능성을 보여주었다.

Keywords

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