Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles (한국의류학회지)

The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles (한국의류학회)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

Comparison of Hwangbek Dyeability for Cotton, Silk, and Wool from Different Tree Species and Origin

황백의 품종 및 산지에 따른 면, 견, 양모직물에 대한 염색성 비교

  • Li, Longchun (Dept. of Fashion Industry, Incheon National University) ;
  • Ahn, Cheunsoon (Dept. of Fashion Industry, Incheon National University)
  • 이룡춘 (인천대학교 패션산업학과) ;
  • 안춘순 (인천대학교 패션산업학과)
  • Received : 2013.12.02
  • Accepted : 2014.01.21
  • Published : 2014.02.28
Download PDF
⟨ Previous Next ⟩

Abstract

This study examined hwangbek dyeability for cotton, silk, and wool from different tree species and origin as well as their berberine and palmatine content. A total of 12 different hwangbek were examined, six purchased directly from different locations of China and six purchased from the Seoul Medicine Market. Hwangbek purchased from China were 3 Kwanhwangbek (Phellodendron amurense Rupr.) from Jilin, Liaoning, Heilongjiang and 3 Chunhwangbek (Phellodendron chinense Schneid.) from Sichuan, Yunnan, and Guangxi. Hwangbek purchased from the Seoul Medicine Market included 3 hwangbek that originated from Korea and 3 hwangbek imported from China. We extracted 2.5g of each hwangbek into 500mL of water for 60 min at $80^{\circ}C$. Dyeing was conducted using the IR dyeing machine for 30min at $55^{\circ}C$ using a 1:100 liquor ratio. Cotton was mordanted using tannic acid followed by potassium antimonyl tartrate trihydrate treatment before dyeing. Berberine and palmatine pigments in hwangbek were identified with the HPLC-DAD-MS instrument and the amount of pigment was quantified using an ion chromatogram. The results indicated that the K/S values of dyed fabrics were highly related to the amount of pigment in hwangbek used for dyeing.

Keywords

References

  1. Ahn, C. (2011). Analysis of dye extracted from Phellodendron bark using liquid chromatography. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 35(12), 1507-1517. https://doi.org/10.5850/JKSCT.2011.35.12.1507
  2. Ahn, C. (2012). Study on the degradation behavior of berberine dye and berberine dyed silk using hydrogen peroxide/ UV/oxygen treatment. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 20(2), 238-250. https://doi.org/10.7741/rjcc.2012.20.2.238
  3. Ahn, C., Yoo, H. J., & Li, L. (2012). Dyeing behaviors of berberine, palmatine, and dye extracted from Phellodendron bark on silk fabric. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 36(12), 1257-1269. doi:10.5850/JKSCT.2012.36.12.1257
  4. Ahn, C., Zeng, X., & Obendorf, S. K. (2013). Simultaneous analysis of the coloring compounds in indigo, Phellodendron bark, and madder dye using HPLC-DAD-MS. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 37(6), 827-836. doi:10.5850/JKSCT.2013.37.6.827
  5. Choi, I. R. (2006). The UV blocking effect of fabrics with natural dyestuffs. Society of Korean Traditional Costume, 9 (3), 57-62.
  6. Chu, Y. J., & Soh, H. O. (1996). The study of Phellodendron amurense Rupr, dyeing. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 27, 121-132.
  7. Dong, Y. J., He, X. H., & Zhong, G. Y. (2007). 黃柏質量硏究現狀問題探討 [Investigation of quality researching of cortex phellodendri and its countermeasures]. Research and Practice of Chinese Medicines, 22(3), 58-60.
  8. Fan, J. P., Zhang Z. L., & Liao, X. L. (2010). Simultaneous determination of four main alkaloids in Cortex Phellodendri Chinensis from different habitats by HPLC. Journal of Guangdong College of Pharmacy, 26(1), 54-57. doi:10.3969/j.issn.1006-8783.2010.01.016
  9. Haji, A. (2010). Functional dyeing of wool with natural dye extracted from Berberis vulgaris wood and Rumex Hymenosepolus root as biomordant. Iranian Journal of Chemistry and Chemical Engineering, 29(3), 55-60.
  10. Haji, A. (2012). Antibacterial dyeing of wool with natural cationic dye using metal mordants. Materials Science (Medziagotyra), 18(3), 267-270. doi:10.5755/j01.ms.18.3.2437
  11. Hu, J. Q., & Hu, X. (2009). 黃柏化成分和理作用的代硏究 [Huang-Bai chemical composition and pharmacological effects of modern research]. Contemporary Medicine, 15(7), 139-141.
  12. Hu, Y. M., Su, G. H., Sze, S. C., Ye, W., & Tong, Y. (2010). Quality assessment of Cortex Phellodendri by high-performance liquid chromatography coupled with electrospray ionization mass spectrometry. Biomedical Chromatography, 24(4), 438-453. doi:10.1002/bmc.1311
  13. Ji, H. F., & Shen, L. (2012). Molecular basis of inhibitory activities of berberine against pathogenic enzymes in Alzheimer's disease. The Scientific World Journal. Retrieved July 5, 2012, from http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3259606.
  14. Kang, S. I., Pak, P. K., Lee, G. W., & Chung, Y. S. (2003). Dyeing of BTCA treated cotton fabrics with Phellodendron amurense Rupr. Extract. Joumal of the Korean Fiber Society, 40(5), 458-462.
  15. Kim, H. I., & Park, S. M. (2001). A study on natural dyeing (2)-Dyeing of modified cotton fabric with Amur cork tree. Textile Coloration and Finishing, 13(3), 18-25.
  16. Kim, H. I., Eom, S. I., & Park, S. M. (2001a). A study on natural dyeing (1)-Dyeing of cotton fabric with amur cork tree dye. Textile Coloration and Finishing, 13(1), 1-8.
  17. Kim, H. I., Eom, S. I., & Park, S. M. (2001b). A study on natural dyeing (4)-Dyeing of silk fabric with amur cork tree extract. Textile Coloration and Finishing, 13(5), 32-40.
  18. Kim, T. K., Yoon, S. H., Lim, Y. J., & Son, Y. A. (2003). Dyeability improvement of berberine colorant by electrostatic attractive force of a Reactive anionic agent. Textile Coloration and Finishing, 15(6), 47-54.
  19. Korea food & drug administration. (2013). 대한민국약전 (제 10개정) [The Korean pharmacopoeia (10th ed.)]. Seoul: Sinil Books.
  20. Kwak, M. J., & Lee, S. H. (2008). Natural dyeing of chitosan crossinked cotton fabrics (III). Journal of the Korean Society for Clothing Industry, 10(4), 544-551.
  21. Lee, J. G., Choi, J. Y., Oh, J. S., Jung, H. W., Choi, E. H., Lee, H. S., Kim, J. A., Chang, T. S., Son, J. K., & Lee, S. H. (2007). Isolation of melamin biosynthesis inhibitory compounds from the Phellodendri Cortex. Korean Journal of Pharmacognosy, 38(4), 387-393.
  22. Lee, W. C. (1996). 한국식물명고 [Lineamenta florae Korea]. Seoul: Academy Books.
  23. Lee, Y. H., Hwang, E. K., Jung, Y. J., Do, S. K., & Kim, H. D. (2009). Dyeing and deodorizing properties of cotton, silk, wool fabrics dyed with amur cork tree, Dryopteris crassirhizoma, Chrysanthemum boreale, Artemisia extracts. Journal of Applied Polymer Science, 115(4), 2246-2253. doi:10.1002/app.31357
  24. Park, J. H., Oh, J. Y., & Bae, J. Y. (2009). Pharmacognostical studies on the Whang-Baig. Journal of Pharmacogn, 40(2), 99-102.
  25. Pharmacopoeia Commission of the PRC Ministry of Health. (2010). 中國藥典 [Chinese pharmacopoeia commission]. Beijing: China medical science press.
  26. Qin, Y. J., Wang, Y., & Yan, X. F. (2006). Status and sustainable utilization strategy of Phellodendron amurense resources in China. Chinese Traditional and Herbal Drugs, 37(7), 1104-1107.
  27. Rivlin, J. (1992). The dyeing of textile fibers: Theory and practice. Philadelphia, PA: Joseph Rivlin.
  28. Samanta, A. K., & Konar, A. (2011). Dyeing of textiles with natural dyes. Natural Dyes. Retrieved July 3, 2013, from http://www.intechopen.com/books/natural-dyes/dyeing-oftextiles- with-natural-dyes
  29. Smith, G. J., Miller, I. J., Daniels, V., & Smith, A. J. (1997). White wool, the growth of the ancient dye industry and an expanding colour vocabulary. Journal of the Society of Dyers and Colourists, 113(4), 124-126.
  30. Soh, H. O., & Chu, Y. J. (1995). The effect of mordanting conditions on the color fastness properties in the Phellodendron amurense, Rupreche (Phellodendron bark) dyeing. Chung Ang Journal of Family Life, 9, 65-74.
  31. Tang, Y. M., Ye, M., Xiang, L., & Peng, X. (2006). Determination of berberine hydrochloride, palmatine hydrochloride and jatrorrhizine hydrochloride in Cortex Phellodendri Chinensis by HPLC. West China Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, 21(3), 265-267.
  32. Vasconcelos, A., Freddi, G., & Cavaco-Paulo, A. (2008). Biodegradable materials based on silk fibroin and keratin. Biomacromolecules, 9(4), 1299-1305. https://doi.org/10.1021/bm7012789
  33. Yong, K. J., Kim, I. H., & Nam, S. W. (1999). Antibacterial and deodorization activities of cotton fabrics dyed with amur cork tree extracts. Textile Coloration and Finishing, 11(1), 9-15.
  34. Zhu, C. C., Lin, C. Z., & Mo, J. X. (2004). Determination of berberine and phellodendrine in Cortex Phellodendri by HPLC. Traditional Chinese Drug Research & Clinical Pharmacology, 15(4), 262-264. doi:10.3321/j.issn: 1003-9783. 2004.04.013
  35. Zhu, Z. M., Lal, X. X., & Su, M. X. (2011). Determinations of active compositions in Cortex Phellodendri chinensis and Cortex Phellodendri amurensis from different areas by HPLC. Clinical Medicine & Engineering, 18(1), 106-108. doi:10.3936/j.issn.1674-4659.2011.01.0106

Cited by

  1. Study on the Dyeing Behavior of Palmatine, a Major Coloring Compound of Phellodendron Bark, on Cotton Fabric vol.39, pp.4, 2015, https://doi.org/10.5850/JKSCT.2015.39.4.601