Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles (한국의류학회지)

The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles (한국의류학회)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

The Consumption Desire for Slow Fashion

슬로우 패션의 소비욕망

  • 이정순 (연세대학교 의류환경학과) ;
  • 권혁상 (연세대학교 의류환경학과) ;
  • 고애란 (연세대학교 의류환경학과)
  • Received : 2013.09.13
  • Accepted : 2014.01.15
  • Published : 2014.02.28
Download PDF
⟨ Previous Next ⟩

Abstract

This study investigated slow fashion consumers from a human desire viewpoint in order to examine the psychological aspects of slow fashion consumption. First, the concept of slow fashion was defined. Second, this study reviewed the concepts of desire found in Oriental philosophies and applied them to slow fashion consumption. This process identified the fundamental desire that motivates consumers of slow fashion. Lastly, the psychological aspects slow fashion consumers were examined through a comparison of fundamental desire and external reasons given by interviewees in regards to personal motivation to purchase slow fashion products. Data were collected through in-depth interviews with 10 unmarried women 25 to 37 years old with experience in buying slow fashion products. Exploratory data were classified into external reasons and fundamental reasons to derive the concept of slow fashion. First, slow fashion is defined as sustainable fashion that considers humans and nature. It also seeks to produce morally good products that transcend time and space. Second, we identified the following external reasons: social responsibility, pursuit of healthy products, and pursuit of beauty. Finally, we extracted four factors that reflected fundamental desire: Recognition Desire, Ostentation Desire, Sexual Appeal Desire, and Power Desire. Altruism was emphasized by respondents who expressed social responsibility among external reasons and the desire for recognition among fundamental reasons. However, this goodwill also originated from human desire due to the emotional healing they receive from helping others. Interviewees sought psychological benefits such as self-satisfaction and spiritual growth through slow fashion that implied an Association of slow fashion consumption with human desire. Slow fashion consumption was influenced by moral convictions as well as various desires; in addition, external reasons for slow fashion consumption could be explained by desire.

Keywords

References

  1. Astyk, S. (2006, December 4). Slow clothing. Groovy green. Retrieved January 3, 2013, from http://www.groovygreen.com/groove/?p=2274
  2. Bagozzi, R. P., Dholakia, U. M., Mahesh, G., & Rajan, N. (2006). The role of regulatory focus in the experience and self-control of desire for temptations. Journal of Consumer Psychology, 16(2), 163-175. https://doi.org/10.1207/s15327663jcp1602_7
  3. Baudrillard, J. (1991). The consumer society (S. Y. Lee, Trans.). Seoul: Moonye. (Original work published 1970)
  4. Belk, R. W. (1979). Gifting-giving behavior: Research in marketing (2nd ed.). Greenwich: JAI press.
  5. Bogdan, R. C., & Biklen, S. K. (1998). Qualitative research for education. Boston: Pearson Education Inc.
  6. Bourdieu, P. (1971). Systems of education and systems of thought. Knowledge and Control: New Directions for the Sociology of Education, 189-207.
  7. Cataldi, C., Dickson, M., & Grover, C. (2010). Slow fashion: Tailoring a strategic approach towards sustainability. Unpublished master's thesis, Blekinge Institute of Technology, Karlskrona.
  8. Clark, H. (2008). Slow+Fashion - an oxymoron - or a promise for future...? Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture, 12(4), 427-446. https://doi.org/10.2752/175174108X346922
  9. Confucius. (2011). The analects of Confucius (J. W. Hwang, Trans.). Seoul: Seochack. (Original work published n.d.)
  10. Crane, A. (2001). Unpacking the ethical product. Journal of Business Ethics, 30(4), 361-373. https://doi.org/10.1023/A:1010793013027
  11. Crane, A., & Matten, D. (2004). Questioning the domain of the business ethics curriculum. Journal of Business Ethics, 54(4), 357-369. https://doi.org/10.1007/s10551-004-1825-x
  12. Davis, W. A. (1984). The two senses of desire. Philosophical Studies, 45(2), 181-195. https://doi.org/10.1007/BF00372477
  13. Dawkins, R. (1989). The selfish gene (2nd ed.). New York: Oxford University press.
  14. Fletcher, K. (2007, June 1). Slow Fashion. Ecologist. Retrieved January 4, 2013, from http://www.theecologist.org/green_ green_living/clothing/269245/slow_fashion.html
  15. Fletcher, K. (2008). Sustainable fashion and textiles. London and Sterling: Earthscan.
  16. Fletcher, K. (2010). Slow fashion: An invitation for systems change. Fashion Practice, 2(2), 259-266. https://doi.org/10.2752/175693810X12774625387594
  17. Fukuyama, F. (1992). The end of history and the last man. New York: Freepress.
  18. Gil, G. T. (2008). 선진 유가의 복식관 연구 [A study of Confucian costume]. Seoul: Sungkyunkwan University.
  19. Han Fei. (2010). 한비자 [Han Fei Zi] (W. J. Kim, Trans.). Seoul: Bookpot. (Original work published n.d.)
  20. Henly, A. (2010, September 22) This Lady Goes Gaga for "Slow Fashion". On Earth Magazine. Retrieved December 28, 2012, from http://www.onearth.org/onearth-blog/thislady-goes-gaga-for-slow-fashion
  21. Holt, T. (2009). The trend to slow fashion. Christian Science Monitor, 101(52), 17.
  22. Hong, E. S., & Shin, H. Y. (2011). A study on ethical consumption behaviors of college students: Classification and analysis according to the ethical consumption behaviors. Journal of Korean Living Science Association, 20(4), 801-817. https://doi.org/10.5934/KJHE.2011.20.4.801
  23. Hong, S. M. (2010). The ethics of sympathy and communication of Desires in Dai Zhen's philosophy. Journal of The Society of Philosophical Studies, 41, 35-69.
  24. Hong, Y. K., & Song, I. S. (2010). The concept and practice areas of ethical consumption. Consumer Policy and Education Review, 6(4), 91-110.
  25. Hsun-tz. (2008). Hsun-tz (H. J. Kim, Trans.). Seoul: Eulyoomunwhasa. (Original work published n.d.)
  26. Huh, E. J. (2011). The determinants of consumer's attitude and purchase intention on the ethical products. Journal of Consumer Studies, 22(2), 89-111.
  27. Jang, H. G. (2004). 중국 사상의 뿌리 [Roots of Chinese thoughts]. Paju: Sallimbooks.
  28. Jeong, D. W. (2009). A study on confucian theory of desire: Focus on harmonizing individual desire with intrinsic ultimate. Korean Journal of Religious Education, 31, 19-43.
  29. Joergens, C. (2006). Ethical fashion: Myth or future trend? Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 10(3), 360-371. https://doi.org/10.1108/13612020610679321
  30. Johansson, E. (2010). Slow fashion - An answer for a sustainable fashion industry? Unpublished master's thesis, University of Boras, Boras.
  31. Kang, S. J. (2011). 관중과 공자 [Guan Zhong and Confucius]. Seoul: Sakyejul.
  32. Kim, M. J., & EBS East and West Production Team. (2012). EBS 다큐멘터리 동과 서: 서로 다른 생각의 기원 [EBS documentary east and west: The origin of different thought and ideas]. Seoul: Jisikchannel.
  33. Kim, S. C. (2006). 이기주의를 위한 변명 [Apology for egoism]. Paju: Woonginjisikhouse.
  34. Koh, A. R. (2009). Ethical consumer behavior in Korea: Current status and future prospects. Fashion Information and Technology, 6, 54-62.
  35. Kwan, J. S. (2012). Based on the perspective of sustainability, the characteristics of upcycle fashion design. Journal of the Korean Society for Clothing Industry, 14(1), 13-23. https://doi.org/10.5805/KSCI.2012.14.1.013
  36. Kwon, J. H. (2007). 사회적 책임성을 중심으로 한 소비자 윤리 구축방안 [Consumer ethics: A study on the establishment of social responsibility of consumers in Korea]. Journal of Korean Ethics Studies, 64, 81-102.
  37. Lacan, J. (1997). The seminar of Jacques Lacan Book VII (the ethics of psychoanalysis 1959-1960). New York and London: W. W. Norton & Company.
  38. Laozi. (1995). Tao Te Ching (K. N. Oh, Trans.). Seoul: Hyeonamsa. (Original work published n.d.)
  39. Lee, K. C. (2008). 열 일곱가지 소비자 이슈 [Seventeen kinds of consumer issues]. Seoul: Kyomunsa.
  40. Lee, K. L. (2001). Wang Ken's effort and the science of great achievement. Journal of Korean Yang-Ming, 5, 169-200.
  41. Lee, J. Y., & Kim, R. D. (2010). A study on the concept of consumption desire. Journal of Consumer Studies, 21(2), 367-393.
  42. Lee, J. Y. (2013, January 6). Korea Fashion Association, 2012 Fashion Top 10 News. Fashion Review. Retrieved April 24, 2013, from http://www.fashion-review.co.kr/fc/imgView02e.html?num=2195
  43. McDonough, W., & Braungart, M. (2002). Design for the triple top line: New tools for sustainable commerce. Corporate Environmental Strategy, 9(3), 251-258. https://doi.org/10.1016/S1066-7938(02)00069-6
  44. Mencius. (2011). Mencius (J. W. Hwang, Trans.). Seoul: Seochack. (Original work published n.d.)
  45. Papanek, V. (1971) Design for the real world, human ecology and social change. New York: Pantheon Books.
  46. Pookulangara, S., & Shephard, A. (2013). Slow fashion movement: Understanding consumer perceptions-An exploratory study. Journal of Retailing and Consumer Services, 20(2), 200-206. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jretconser.2012.12.002
  47. Rodriguez, A. V. (2006). Not all desires are created equal: Exploring a dual-motivation account of consumer desire. Unpublished doctoral dissertation, The University of Illinois at Urbana - Champaign, Urbana.
  48. Shang Yang. (2011). The book of Lord Shang (J. J. L. Duyvendak, Trans.). London: Arthur Probsthain. (Original work published 1928)
  49. Shiv, B., & Fedorikhin, A. (1999). Heart and mind in conflict: The interplay of affect and cognition in consumer decision making. Journal of Consumer Research, 26(3), 278-292. https://doi.org/10.1086/209563
  50. Siegel, A., Burnside, M., Kester, C., Howes, T., & Robertson, K. (2012). Retail sustainability report: Successes, challenges, and a vision for the future. Retail Industry leaders Association. Retrieved July 24, 2013, from http://www.rila. org/sustainability/sustreport2013/sustainability-report-landing-page/Pages/default.aspx
  51. Sima, Q. (2011). Records of the grand historian (W. J. Kim, Trans.). Seoul: Minumsa. (Original work published BC91)
  52. Slow Fashion Award. (2010, April 23). Slow Fashion. Retrieved December 10, 2012, from http://www.slowfashion.at/en/slow-fasion-award/slow-fashion-award-10.html
  53. Slow Fashioned. (2011). What is slow fashion? SLOW FASHIONED. ORG. Retrieved December 23, 2013, from http://www.slowfashioned.org/about/
  54. Slow Fashion 101. (2011, January 28). Abitslow. Retrieved December 12, 2012, from http://abitslow.wordpress.com/2011/01/28/slow-fashion-101
  55. Stake, R. E. (2000). The art of case study research (Y. H. Hong, G. J. No, & J. H. Sim, Trans.). New York: Sage Publications. (Original work published 1995)
  56. Vadas, M. (1984). Affective and non-affective desire. Philosophy and Phenomenological Research, XLV(2), 273-279.
  57. Yoo, M. I. (2006). 어우야담 [An unofficial historical story by Ooh] (I. C. Shin, Trans.). Seoul: Dolbegae. (Original work published 1622)
  58. Zhuangzi. (2011). Zhuangzi (J. W. Hwang, Trans.). Seoul: Seochack. (Original work published n.d.)
  59. Zui, L. (2013). 미학으로 동양 인문학을 꿰뚫다 [Go to the root of the Eastern humanities by aesthetic] (W. B. Shin, Trans.). Seoul: Alma. (Original work published 2000)

Cited by

  1. A Survey on the Research Trends in the Field of Eco and Eco-friendly Fashion in Korea - Focused on Journal Publications from 2010 through 2014 - vol.66, pp.5, 2016, https://doi.org/10.7233/jksc.2016.66.5.163
  2. A Study on Slow Fashion Related to Convergence Design vol.65, pp.2, 2015, https://doi.org/10.7233/jksc.2015.65.2.033