DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

A Bibliographical Study of Korean Fan Fried Side dishes(Jeon) in Korean Literatures before the 1900s

1900년대 이전 문헌에 기록된 전 조리법의 문헌적 고찰

  • Published : 2012.10.31

Abstract

Jeon refers to a type of Korean cuisine used as a side dish, made with various ingredients such as meat, vegetables, or fish, mixed with flour batter and coated with egg batter and then pan-fried on both sides with oil so that heat spreads through them well. The aim of this study was to provide a cornerstone of further research on Korean dietary life, by reviewing types, recipes and names of Jeon recorded in ancient cookbooks (Korean literatures) and by analyzing changes in recipes to make Jeon, which our ancestors used wisely as one type of side dish. Considering developments and changes recorded in old documents, the Jeon recipe appeared relatively later than the recipes for grilling, steaming et al, which had been developed much earlier, and it had not been recorded until the 1600s. Changes of Jeon recipes by time period are as follows. In the 1600s, there were three recipes: frying only with grain batter after preparation of ingredients, frying right after preparation of ingredients, and putting ingredients on already fried watery batter. These three recipes were still used in the 1700s, in addition to a new recipe, in which ingredients were oil-fried to be skewered. Today's recipe in which prepared ingredients are fried after getting coated with flour and egg only appeared in 1800s. This has been the main recipe for Jeon ever since. In that time period, there was more variety of recipes and ingredients than before. For instance, Jeon was used for soup or steamed dishes instead of being served as a dish itself. Buchimgae with mixed ingredients was also considered Jeon. In the 1900s, there appeared more names for Jeon as more sorts of ingredients got used, even though there were no new recipes for Jeon. The above-mentioned historical records show that traditional recipes for Jeon have been applied to various dishes, using diverse ingredients, and it might be a smart solution to today's problematic dietary habits involving excessive intake of nutrients, in that it provides a healthy way to add fat. In the same sense, the recipe for Jeon can play an active role in internationalization of Korean foods, in which healthiness is a main feature. According to ancient documents, the recipes for Jeon were used even for meals that were not side dishes, such as Jun-Gwa (Jung-Gwa), Jun-Yak and fried rice-cake. Also, there were dishes using the same recipes even without carrying the name of Jeon, like Buchim or Jijim. This might be worthy of further examination in culinary science.

Keywords

References

  1. 김상보. 1995. 조선왕조 궁중음식의 실제, 수학사, 서울
  2. 농촌진흥청. 2010. 현대식으로 다시 보는 수문사설. 과학원예사. 서울
  3. 마영순 1997, 문헌에 기록된 전의 연구. 한양대학교 교육대학원. 석사학위 논문
  4. 방신영. 1942. 조선요리제법. 한성도서주식회사.
  5. 빙허각 이씨. 1815. 간본 규합총서. 영인본
  6. 전양완. 1986. 규함총서. 보진재. 서울
  7. 안동장씨 원저. 2000. 한복려, 한복선, 한복진 역. 다시보고 배우는 음식디미방
  8. 유중림. 1767. 증보산림경제. 영인본
  9. 왕준련. 1976. 한국요리. 선문출판사.
  10. 윤서석. 1999. 식생활 문화의 역사. 신광출판사
  11. 윤서석. 1974. 한국 식품사 연구. 신관출판사. 서울
  12. 윤숙경편역. 1998. 수운잡방, 주찬. 신광출판사
  13. 이용기. 1924. 조선무쌍신식요리제법. 영창서관
  14. 이성우. 1985. 한국요리문화사, 수학사.
  15. 이효지, 조신호, 정낙원, 차경희. 2007. 임원십육지 정조지 편역. 교문사, 서울
  16. 이효지 2005. 한국음식의 맛과 멋. 신광출판사. 서울
  17. 이효지 외. 2004. 시의전서. 신광출판사, 서울
  18. 이효지 외, 2010. 부인필지, 교문사, 서울
  19. 작자미상. 1680. 요록. 영인본
  20. 작자미상. 1800년대 중엽. 역주방문. 영인본
  21. 작자미상. 1700년대, 술 만드는 법. 영인본
  22. 작자미상. 1937. 할팽연구. 경성여자사범학교 가사연구회
  23. 전 순의. 14. 산가요록
  24. 정낙원 외(한국문화재보호재단편.). 1999. 한국음식대관 2편. 한림출판사.
  25. 황정희. 전류음식의 섭취 및 기호도에 관한 조사연구, 숙명여자대학교 석사학위논문
  26. Chung RW, Cho SH, Choi YJ, Kim EM, Won SI, Cha GH, Kim HS, Lee HG. 2007. An Investigation of side-dishes found in Korean literatures before the 17th century. Korean J Food Cookery Sci 23(5):731-748
  27. Ma YS, Lee HG. 1999. A bibliographical study on the meat and poultry jeon. Korean Living Science Research Institute Hanyang University 17:71-99
  28. Ma YS, Lee HG. 1999. A bibliographical study on the fish and shellfish jeon. Korean Living Science Research Institute Hanyang University 17: 101-129
  29. Ma YS, Lee HG. 1999. A bibliographical study on the jeon (III). Korean Living Science Research Institute Hanyang University 17:145-185
  30. Lee HG, Yoon SS. 1986. An analytical studies on side dishes in the Royal Parties of Yi Dynasty. Korean J Dietary Culture 1(2):101-115
  31. Lee SW, Kim SM. A study on the cooking in "The Lee's UmsikBup". Korean J Dietary Culture 5(2):193-205

Cited by

  1. Literature Review on the Jeonuhwa in the Royal Cuisine of Joseon Dynasty vol.2, pp.4, 2016, https://doi.org/10.17703/JCCT.2016.2.4.1
  2. Ssam food recipe: A case study on jongka ancestral ritual food vol.5, pp.3, 2012, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jef.2018.08.004
  3. A Literature Study of Misu in 「Kihae Jinyeonuigwe (1719)」and 「Imin Hamnyeongjeon Jinyeonuigwe (1902)」 vol.30, pp.3, 2012, https://doi.org/10.17495/easdl.2020.6.30.3.183