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속초 연안의 파랑환경 변화양상 분석

Analysis of the Variation Pattern of the Wave Climate in the Sokcho Coastal Zone

  • 조홍연 (한국해양연구원 해양환경보전연구부) ;
  • 정원무 (한국해양연구원 연안개발.에너지연구부) ;
  • 백원대 (한국해양연구원 연안개발.에너지연구부) ;
  • 김상익 (한국해양연구원 기후연안재해연구부)
  • Cho, Hong-Yeon (Marine Environment & Conservation Research Department, Korea Ocean Research and Development Institute) ;
  • Jeong, Weon-Mu (Coastal Engineering & Ocean Energy Research Department, KORDI) ;
  • Baek, Won-Dae (Coastal Engineering & Ocean Energy Research Department, KORDI) ;
  • Kim, Sang-Ik (Climate Change & Coastal Disaster Research Department, KORDI)
  • 투고 : 2012.03.05
  • 심사 : 2012.04.26
  • 발행 : 2012.04.30

초록

속초 연안에서 관측한 장기간의 파랑자료를 이용하여 다양한 파랑환경 특성을 분석하였다. 파랑환경 분석 결과 발견된 대표적인 특성은 다음과 같다. 파고 및 주기의 평균에 대한 변동계수는 각각 0.11, 0.02 정도로 주기 평균의 변동계수가 매우 낮은 것으로 파악되었다. 또한 변동주기 성분분석결과 1년 주기성분이 우세하였으며, 변동 범위는 0.24 m, 주기는 0.56초로 파악되었다. 계절 변동범위도 연간 변동범위보다 약 2배 정도 크다. 한편 파고 및 주기자료의 확률밀도함수를 추정한 결과, 단주기파의 파고 및 주기는 대수정규분포와 GEV 분포함수와 유사하며, 장 주기파의 경우, 파고는 대수정규분포, 주기는 GEV 분포함수와 유사하지만, KS 검정결과는 모두 기각으로 판정되었다. 파고 및 주기자료는 AR(3) 모형으로 추정된다. 파랑 강도를 분석한 결과는 연속 지속시간의 평균 및 최대지 속시간은 파고의 멱함수(power function) 함수로 감소하였으며, 전체 지속시간은 지수함수 형태로 감소하는 양상을 보였다. 또한 속초연안 환경은 전형적인 파랑 우세환경으로 파악되었다.

Exploratory data analysis was carried out by using the long-term wave climate data in Sokcho coastal zone. The main features found in this study are as follows. The coefficient of variations on the wave height and period are about 0.11 and 0.02, respectively. It also shows that the annual components of the wave height and period are dominant and their amplitudes are 0.24 m and 0.56 seconds, respectively. The amount of intra-annual variation range is about two times greater than that of the inter-annual variation range. The distribution shapes of the wave data are very similar to the log-normal and GEV(generalized extreme value) functions. However, the goodness-of-fit tests based on the KS test show as "rejected" for all suggested density functions. Then, the structure of the timeseries wave height data is roughly estimated as AR(3) model. Based on the wave duration results, it is clearly shown that the continuous and maximum duration is decreased as a power function shape and the total duration is exponentially decreased. Meanwhile, the environment of the Sokcho coastal zone is classified as a wave-dominated environment.

키워드

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  3. Distribution and Trend Analysis of the Significant Wave Heights Using KMA and ECMWF Data Sets in the Coastal Seas, Korea vol.29, pp.3, 2017, https://doi.org/10.9765/KSCOE.2017.29.3.129
  4. Analysis of the Long-term Wave Characteristics off the Coast of Daejin vol.27, pp.2, 2015, https://doi.org/10.9765/KSCOE.2015.27.2.142
  5. Relationship Analysis on the Monitoring Period and Parameter Estimation Error of the Coastal Wave Climate Data vol.25, pp.1, 2013, https://doi.org/10.9765/KSCOE.2013.25.1.34
  6. Analysis on the Reduction Effects of the Gravity Waves and Infra-Gravity Waves of Detached Submerged Breakwater by Field Monitoring vol.30, pp.2, 2018, https://doi.org/10.9765/KSCOE.2018.30.2.51