A Study on the Skin Anti-wrinkle Effect of Novel Palmitoyl Tripeptide

신규한 Palmitoyl Tripeptide의 피부 주름개선 효과에 관한 연구

  • Received : 2010.02.08
  • Accepted : 2010.03.02
  • Published : 2010.03.30

Abstract

Collagen is the most abundant animal protein in mammals, accounting for about 30 % of all proteins. It is present in connective tissue and contributes to the structural framework of most organs. The tripeptide (glycineproline-hydroxyproline) with the INCI name Tripeptide-29 is main component of collagen type I. The palmitoyl tripeptide (palmitoyl-glycine-proline-hydroxyproline) with the INCI name Paimitoyi Tripeptide-29 is a synthetic material that was designed as a topical agent to stimulate collagen production. We synthesized the palmitoyl tripeptide as a potential anti-wrinkle compound. This compound has been characterized using HPLC. This compound proved, through in vitro tests, to stimulate collagen production and fibroblast proliferation. These results were very promising, so human studies were subsequently performed. We investigated the skin improvement effect of the palrnitoyl tripeptide on human skin by using non-invasive instruments. We measured physiological effects such as skin wrinkles and elasticity after volunteers applied the cosmetic products for 8 weeks. We observed significant improvement in skin wrinkles and elasticity after use of the cosmetic products for 8 weeks. We concluded that the palmitoyl tripeptide had an anti-aging effect on human facial skin.

콜라겐은 포유동물의 가장 풍부한 동물성 단백짙로, 전체 단백질의 약 30 %를 차지하며, 결합 조직에 존재하며 대부분의 장기의 구조적 지지에 기여한다. Tripeptide (glycine-proline-hydroxyproline: INCI name Tripeptide-29) 는 collagen type 1의 주성분이며, palmitoyl tripeptide (palmitoyl-glycine-proline-hydroxyproline: INCI name Palmitoyl Tripeptide-29) 는 콜라겐의 합성을 촉진하는 항노화 불질로서 디자인된 합성소재이다 합성된 웹타이드 유도체는 HPLC를 이용하여 분식하였다. in vitro test를 통하여 콜라겐합성과 섬유아세포 증식 효능을 확인하였고, 비침습적 기기를 사용하여 피검자에 대한 8주간의 적용결과 피부주름과 탄력의 상당한 개선을 확인하였다. Palmitoyl tripeptide는 우수한 항노화 효능을 갖는 화장품 소재로 사료된다.

Keywords

References

  1. E. Telejko. K. Wrobel, K. Wisniewski. and E. Bankowski. Pharmacological and physicochemical properties of collagen breakdown-products. Acta. Neurobial. 52(4). 223 (1992).
  2. Y. Sakai and R. Yamato. The development of highly skin-permeable collagen Tripeptide (CTP) with glycine at the N-terminus. J. Fragr., 29(2). 73 (2001).
  3. M. Foldvari. S. Attah-Poku, J. Hu, Q. Li, H. Hughes. L. A. Babiuk, and S. Kruger. Palmitoyl derivatives of interferon alpha: potent for cutaneous delivery. J. Pharm. Sci., 87(10). 1203 (1998). https://doi.org/10.1021/js980146k
  4. L. R. Robinson, N. C. Fitzgerald. D. G. Doughty. N. C. Dawes. C. A. Berge, and D. L. Bissett, Topical palmitoyl pentapeptide provides improvement in photoaged human facial skin. Int. J. Cosmet. Sci.. 27(3), 155 (2005). https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1467-2494.2005.00261.x
  5. J. de Rigal, C. Escoffier, B. Querleux, B. Faivre. P. Agache, and J. L. Leveque, Assessement of aging of the human skin by in vivo ultrasonic imaging. J. Invest. Dermatol., 93(5). 621 (1989). https://doi.org/10.1111/1523-1747.ep12319741