Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회지)

Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회)
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The Stimulatory Effects of Epimedium koreanum Nakai Extract on Melanogenesis

음양곽 추출물의 멜라닌 생성 촉진 효과

  • 이응지 (정산생명공학(주) 중앙연구소) ;
  • 배성윤 (정산생명공학(주) 중앙연구소) ;
  • 이용화 (정산생명공학(주) 중앙연구소)
  • Published : 2009.12.30
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Abstract

To develop a natural stimulating agent for hair melanogenesis, we investigated the stimulatory effects of Epimedium koreanum Nakai extract (EKNE) on melanogenesis. EKNE both increased melanin content in B16 melanoma cells up to about 104 % and intracellular tyrosinase activity up to about 95 % at a concentration of $50\;{\mu}g/mL$ without cell cytotoxicity (below $100\;{\mu}g/mL$). From the result of western blot, we could find that EKNE dose-dependently induce the expression of TRP-2. Also, EKNE increased melanogenesis up to about 25 % at a concentration of 5 % (w/v) in back hair of C3H/Hej mouse. These results suggest that EKNE has an effect to stimulate melanin formation through the induction of tyrosinase activity and TRP-2 expression which are involved in melanin synthesis in melanocyte. Therefore, we suggest that EKNE could be used as a useful melanogenesis stimulator for development of natural hair cosmetics.

멜라닌 생합성을 활성화하여 자연스러운 모발의 흑화를 촉진할 수 있는 소재를 개발하기 위하여 음양곽 메탄올 추출물의 멜라닌 생성에 연관된 생리 활성을 분석하였다. 음양곽 추출물은 $100\;{\mu}g/mL$ 이하에서 세포 독성이 없는 것으로 확인 되었으며 $50\;{\mu}g/mL$ 농도에서 B16 melanoma 세포 내 멜라닌 생합성을 104 % 증가시켰고 tyrosinase의 활성을 95 % 촉진하는 것으로 나타났다. Western blot을 이용한 실험에서는 음양곽 추출물이 농도 의존적으로 TRP-2의 발현을 증가시키는 경향을 관찰할 수 있었다. 또한 C3H/Hej 마우스를 이용한 동물 실험에서 음양곽 추출물을 도포한 등 부위 털의 멜라닌 생합성이 5 % (w/v) 도포 시 25 % 증가되는 경향을 관찰할 수 있었다. 위의 결과를 통해 음양곽 메탄올 추출물이 멜라닌 생합성 기전에 관여하는 것으로 알려진 tyrosinase의 활성 촉진, 멜라닌 생합성 기전과 melanocyte 생존에 관여하는 것으로 알려진 TRP-2의 발현 증가를 통해 멜라닌 합성 촉진을 유도하는 것으로 추측해 볼 수 있었다. 이러한 음양곽 추출물의 효능을 이용해 모발의 흑화 촉진 효과를 나타내는 화장품 소재 개발이 가능할 것으로 보인다.

Keywords

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