A Study on Baseline Taping for Dress Form

의복 생산용 바디의 기준선 설정에 관한 연구

  • Jung, Kyung-Won (Dept. of Clothing and Textiles, Seoul National University) ;
  • Nam, Yun-Ja (Dept. of Clothing and Textiles, Seoul National University) ;
  • Lee, Jeong-Yim (Dept. of Clothing and Textiles, Paichai University)
  • Received : 2007.12.28
  • Accepted : 2008.08.08
  • Published : 2008.08.31

Abstract

The existing baseline taping methods were not applicable sometimes according to the body shape of dress form and they were often dependent on the personal ability and knowledge of modelist. It is very important to suggest the standardized baseline taping method which is applicable to various dress forms which have different body size and shape. It helps to communicate about clothing design and patternmaking between designer and manufacturer, and it also makes students to understand draping easily. So this study was performed to suggest the standardized baseline taping method which is easier and has consistency of taping result regardless of body shape of dress form. First, the existing 7 baseline taping methods were compared with 3 kinds of dress form which are reflecting different body shape and different age. Especially the location of baselines and landmarks which are important for draping are analyzed. Second, the new baseline taping method was developed with reference to the existing baseline taping methods, the standard body measurements of 2004 Size Korea and flat patternmaking. The standardized method for 12 landmarks and 11 baseline was suggested. Third, the appraisal group has performed baseline taping with both the existing method and new method on 2 kinds of dress form. The new method was superior to the existing method in uniformity of taping results as well as the degree of difficulty of taping. Development of the standardized baseline taping method which is applicable to various dress forms would make draping easier and be useful for both apparel industry and academia.

Keywords

References

  1. 김순분, 박채련 (2004). 입체재단, 서울: 교학연구사
  2. 김혜경 (1999). 입체구성기법. 서울: 교학사
  3. 산업자원부 기술표준원. (2005). 제5차 한국인 인체치수조사 보고서, 서울
  4. 산업자원부 기술표준원. (2004). 2004 사이즈코리아 인체측정 표준용어집. 서울
  5. 손부현, 김순아, 권은순 (2005). 패션디자인을 위한 입체재단, 서울: 신정
  6. 송화경, 최혜선, 이경미. (2004). 의복제작용 인대와 의류 브랜드 피팅모델의 형태 비교-3차원 계측을 중심으로-. 복식, 54(7), 75-87
  7. 오순, 이미정, 이소영, 김정실, 박승순. (2004). 패션드레이핑의 길잡이, 서울: 교학연구사
  8. 위수영. (1995). 토르소패턴 개발에 관한 연구, 서울대 생활과학연구, 20권, 107
  9. 이정임. (2001). 한국인 여성의 표준체형에 관한 연구, 서울대학교 대학원 박사학위 논문
  10. 이형숙, 남윤자. (2001). 여성복구성. 서울: 교학연구사. p. 83, p. 84, p. 87, p. 218
  11. 임원자. (1995). 의복구성학, 서울: 교문사. p. 15, p. 17
  12. 정영자. (1994). 입체재단, 서울: 교학연구사, pp.
  13. 채수경. (1999). 국내 숙녀복 업체의 입체재단 도입 현황 분석-미시존 기성복 브랜 드 중심으로-. 연세대학교 대학원 석사학위논문
  14. 황수연. (2000). 주문생산을 위한 자동제도 토르소원형 연구-20대 여성을 중심으로-. 서울대학교 대학원 석사학위논문
  15. Chie Koike. (1997). 입체재단(이효진 역). 서울: 예학사 (원저 1984 출판)