KSBB Journal

The Korean Society for Biotechnology and Bioengineering (한국생물공학회)
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Supercritical Extraction of Oriental Herb : Anti-aging and Anti-wrinkle Effects

한방원료의 초임계 추출을 이용한 항노화 및 주름개선 효과

  • Kim, In-Deok (Department of Pharmaceutical Engineering, College of Medical Life Science, Silla University) ;
  • Kwon, Ryun-Hee (Department of Pharmaceutical Engineering, College of Medical Life Science, Silla University) ;
  • Heo, Ye-Young (Department of Pharmaceutical Engineering, College of Medical Life Science, Silla University) ;
  • Jung, Hye-Jin (Amaranth Cosmetics) ;
  • Kang, Hwan-Yul (Amaranth Cosmetics) ;
  • Ha, Bae-Jin (Department of Pharmaceutical Engineering, College of Medical Life Science, Silla University)
  • 김인덕 (신라대학교 의생명과학대학 제약공학과) ;
  • 권륜희 (신라대학교 의생명과학대학 제약공학과) ;
  • 허예영 (신라대학교 의생명과학대학 제약공학과) ;
  • 정혜진 (아마란스 화장품) ;
  • 강환열 (아마란스 화장품) ;
  • 하배진 (신라대학교 의생명과학대학 제약공학과)
  • Published : 2008.12.31
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Abstract

The reactive oxygen species generated by ultraviolet rays causes various types of cutaneous damage, such as lipid peroxidation and denaturation of the extra-cellular matrix. The accumulation of such damage contributes to skin aging, especially the formation of wrinkles. This study was carried out to develop functional cosmatic by using Oriental herb supercritical extracts (OHSE) for prevention of skin. Effects of OHSE on anti-oxidation, collagenase inhibition and collagen synthesis in normal human fibroblast were investigated. OHSE showed antioxidative activity as high as vitamin C, trolox and DL-penicillamine. Also OHSE showed promotive effect on collagen synthesis and inhibitory effect on collagenase activity. From this results, we conclude that OHSE may have the potential to be conveniently used as an additive in cosmetics for prevention and improvement of skin aging.

본 연구에서는 초임계 추출방법을 이용한 7가지 한방원료(음양곽, 복분자, 오미자, 구기자, 건지황, 사상자, 토사자)의 유효성분을 추출하였으며, 각 추출물의 항산화 효과, collagen 합성 촉진 효과, collagenase 활성 저해 효과를 비교 평가함으로써 주름개선 기능성 화장품 원료로서의 사용 가능성을 검토하였다. 실험결과 초임계 추출물의 항산화 활성측정시 DPPH 소거 효과, 리놀산 자동산화, superoxide radical, Hydroxyl radical 소거 작용의 경우 복분자 추출물이 뛰어난 항산화 능력을 볼 수 있었으며, 주름개선효과의 경우 초임계 추출물의 콜라겐 합성과 MMP-1 저해 효과는 구기자 추출물이 주름개선에 탁월한 효과를 확인 할 수 있었다. 이를 기초로 하여 초임계 복분자 추출물과 구기자 추출물을 이용시 항산화 활성과 주름개선 효능에 우수한 화장품의 소재로서 이용이 될 수 있다고 사료된다. 이러한 결과를 바탕으로 초임계 추출을 이용한 7가지 한방원료가 가지는 항산화 및 주름개선 효능을 효율적인 배합시 기능성 화장품 소재로 활용될 수 있을 것으로 사료된다. 이 후 실험으로는 melanocye 배양을 통한 직접적인 세포실험을 하여 초임계 한방원료 추출물의 tyrosinase inhibition 활성, 피부의 주름개선 효과를 in vivo 실험상에서 현재 진행 중에 있다.

Keywords

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