Journal of Fashion Business (패션비즈니스)

The Korean Society of Fashion Business (한국패션비즈니스학회)
권호 표지

A Study on the Dress Design Using Art Nouveau Image - Focus on the Decoration Detail Case -

아르누보 이미지의 드레스 디자인 연구 - 장식 디테일 사례를 중심으로 -

  • Lee, Jung-Won (Dept. of Clothing and Textiles, Ewha Womans University) ;
  • Cho, Kyu-Hwa (Dept. of Clothing and Textiles, Ewha Womans University)
  • 이정원 (이화여자대학교 의류직물학과) ;
  • 조규화 (이화여자대학교 의류학과)
  • Published : 2008.06.30
Download PDF
⟨ Previous Next ⟩

Abstract

The purpose of this study is to examine actual design cases of decorative detail in the Art Nouveau style from the end of 19th century to the beginning of 20th century, and create designs and fashion works to meet our contemporary fashion trends by means of over-decorative style, a characteristic of decorative detail. The characteristics of decorative detail in the Art Nouveau style can be outlined as follows: First, pleats appear with two major feels of solidity, undulated and curvilinear solidity based on gather(ruffle, frill/ flare and flounce) and regular and linear solidity based on linear pleats or tucks. Second, embroidery appears in various patterns developed with stitch of solid feel as well as a variety of coloration effects. Third, attachments are expressed by means of independent motif(applique, gloss effects(beads, sequins), affluent texture and mobility(fur, feather). Moreover, according to technical characteristics and expressive aspects of pleats, embroidery and attachments, it is found that decoration detail in the era of Art Nouveau is over-decoration style. Indeed, it appears in major expressive aspects such as rhythmical solid type, detailed prominence type, superficial touch type and profound volume type.

Keywords

References

  1. 조규화(2004), 패션미학, 수학사, p.31
  2. 2000/1 F/W의 존 갈리아노(John Galliano)
  3. 2001 S/S의 장 폴 골티에(Jean Paul Gaultier)
  4. 2001/2 F/W의 돌체&가바나(D&G), 안나 몰리 나리(Anna Molinari)
  5. 2002 S/S 의 크리스티앙 라크루아(Christian Lacroix)
  6. 2003/4 S/S의 임마누엘 웅가로(Emanuel Ungaro)
  7. 2005/6 S/S 의 베르사체(Versace)
  8. S. T. マドセン (1967), アルヌボ, 東京 : 美術 公論社
  9. The Books of Kells: 아일랜드에서 8세기까지 제작된 켈트인의 복음서
  10. 조규화(2004), 패션미학, 수학사, p.104
  11. S. T. マドセン (1967), アル ヌヴォ, 東京 : 美術公論社. pp.22-28
  12. 장순찬(1985), "Art Nouveau Fashion", 이화여자대학교 대학원 석사학위논문, p.120
  13. Gerard Durozoi(1992), Toulouse-Lautrec, London:Studio Editions
  14. 南 靜(1990), パリ モ-ドの200年, 東京: 文化出版局, p.88
  15. Madge Garland and Anderson Black(1975), A History of Fashion, New York: Morrow, p.219
  16. 南 靜(1975), パリ モ-ドの200年, 東京: 文化出版局, p.82
  17. Richard Martin & Harold Koda(1995), Haute couture, New York : Metropolitan Museum of Art, p.49
  18. 南 靜(1975), パリ モ-ドの200年, 東京: 文化出版局, p.95
  19. Cecil Saint-Laurent(1988), Histoire Imprevue De Dessous Feminins, Paris: Herscher, p.23
  20. Cecil Saint-Laurent(1988), Histoire Imprevue De Dessous Feminins, Paris: Herscher, p.95
  21. 조규화(2004), 패션미학, 수학사, p.106
  22. Kim, Mi-Young. Cho, Kyu-Hwa(2003). "A Study on Art Nouveau Style Fashion Design". Journal of Fashion Business, Vol.7, No. 6, pp.1-9
  23. Romain de Tirtoff(1985), エルテ : The Complete Graphic Works, 東京: 講談社, p.49
  24. 장순찬(1985), "Art Nouveau Fashion", 이화여자대학교 대학원 석사학위논문
  25. 高階秀爾(1973), 世紀末藝術, 東京: 紀伊國屋書店, p.120
  26. "Fashion History", (2000.03.12), 삼성디자인넷 2007,09,12, 자료출처 http://www.samsung design.ne
  27. Lydia Kamitsis (1996), Vionnet, London: Thames and Hudson, p.14
  28. Charlotte Mankey Calasibetta(1998), Fairchild's Dictionary of Fashion-Second Edition, New York: Fairchild Books, p.237
  29. Georges Lepape, George Barbier,(1979), French Fashion Plates in Full Color from the Gazette du Bon Ton (1912-1925), New York: Dover
  30. 服裝文化協會(1976), 服裝大百科事典-上卷. 東京 : 文化出版局, p.219
  31. Sharon Lee Tate(1984), Inside Fashion Design-Second Edition, New York: Arper & Row, p.147
  32. 服裝文化協會(1976), 服裝大百科事典-上卷. 東京 : 文化出版局, p.630
  33. R. Tunrer Wilcox(1958), The Mode in Costume, New York: Charels Scribners Sons, p. 321
  34. Helen L, Brockman(1965), The Theory of Fashion Design, John Wiley & Sons. Inc, p.294
  35. 南 靜(1990), パリ モ-ドの200年, 東京: 文化出版局, p.94
  36. Romain de Tirtoff; Selected by S. Blum (1976), Designs by Erte Fashion Drawings and Illustrations from "Harper's Bazar", New York : Dover, p.21
  37. J. Anderson Black. Madge Garland(1997), 세계 패션사, 윤길순(역), 자작아카데미, p.24
  38. Claire Wilcox & Valerie Mendes(1991), Modern Fashion in Detail, London: Victoria & Albert Museum, p.55
  39. Constance Howard (1981), Twentieth-century embroidery in Great Britain, London : Batsford, p.34