A Study on the Subjective Textures, Sensibilities and the Objective Handle of Knit Fabrics

니트 소재의 주관적 질감 및 감성과 객관적 태에 관한 연구

  • Ju, Jeong-Ah (Dept. of Traditional Fashion Culture, Jeonju University) ;
  • Ryu, Hyo-Seon (Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Seoul National University)
  • 주정아 (전주대학교 전통패션문화전공) ;
  • 유효선 (서울대학교 의류학과)
  • Published : 2006.01.01

Abstract

The purpose of this study is to analyze the relationship among subjective textures, sensibilities and objective handle of knit fabrics and to provide useful information in planning and designing knit fabrics. We made 20 plain knit fabrics, as specimens, with a combination of 5 kinds of wool/rayon fiber contents and 4 kinds of stitch loop length. For the subjective evaluation, we used 29 questions of subjective textures and sensibilities and employed statistical analysis tools such as factor, Pearson's correlation analysis. An objective handle was measured by Kawabata evaluation system and HV and THV was calculated by KN-402-KT and KN-301-winter. The analysis of a Pearson's correlation with objective properties and handles and structural properties of knit fabrics demonstrated a highly linear relationship. Especially, wool/rayon contents and WT of tensile properties and loop stitch length and G of shear properties showed a correlation coefficient over 0.9. But a relationship of objective properties and subjective textures and sensibilities was non-linear and a linear multi-regression analysis showed that a objective handle had a lower prediction power in the area of subjective textures and sensibilities.

Keywords

References

  1. 권오경, 김태규. (1994). 편성조건이 인터록 편성포의 물성에 미치는 영향(2)-역학적 특성 및 태에 관하여-. 한국섬유공학회지, 31(6),465-473
  2. 권오경, 권헌선. (1996). 편성조건이 인터록 편성포의 물성에 미치는 영향(3)-드레이프성 및 기능 특성치에 관하여-. 한국섬유공학회지, 33(3), 240-247
  3. 김덕리. (1994) 모직물의 태에 관한 연구(1)-실의 구성이 역학량에 미치는 영향-. 한국염색가공학회지, 6(4), 54-61
  4. 김성련. (2000). 피복재료학. 서울: 교문사
  5. 박신웅,강복춘,황영구,안재상. (1995). 더블 니트 위편성물의 역학적 특성과 태에 관한 연구. 한국섬유공학회지, 32(9), 859-868
  6. 배현주,김은애. (2003). 남성 정장용 양모 직물의 질감 이미지와 선호도 분석. 한국의류학회지, 27(11), 1318-1329
  7. 조혜진. (2003). 편성조건이 위편성물의 태에 미치는 영향. 건국대학교 대학원 박사학위 논문
  8. 주정아,유효선. (2004). 위편성물 소재의 구성특성에 따른 주관적 질감 및 감성의 영향. 한국의류학회지, 28(11), 1516-1523
  9. 주정아,유효선. (2005). 니트 소재의 구성특성과 주관적 질감 및 감성의 관계. 한국의류학회지, 29(8), 1158-1167
  10. Choi, M. S., & Ashdown, S. P. (2000). Effect of Changes in knit structure and density on the mechanical and Hand properties of weft-knit fabrics for outerwear. Textiles Research Journal, 70(12), 1033-1045 https://doi.org/10.1177/004051750007001201
  11. Gibson, V. L., & Postle, R. (1978). An ananlysis of the Bending and Shear Properties of Woven, Double-knitted, and Warp-knitted Outwear fabrics. Textile Research Journal. 48(1), 14-27 https://doi.org/10.1177/004051757804800103
  12. Kawabata. (1980). The standardization and analysis of Hand evaluation (2nd ed.), Osaka: Textile Machinery Society of Japan