Journal of the Korean Society of Costume (복식)

The Korean Society of Costume (한국복식학회)
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A Study on National Fashion Images, Represented in Vivienne Westwood's Works

비비안 웨스트우드의 작품 세계에 나타난 영국적 이미지

  • Song, Su-Won (Dept. of Clothing and Textiles, Seoul National University) ;
  • Kim, Min-Ja (Dept. of Clothing and Textiles, Seoul National University)
  • Published : 2006.02.01
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Abstract

The purpose of this study is to analyze the meanings of national images represented in Vivienne Westwood' collections through investigating her works in an aspect of national identity. The results were as follows: British fashion is generally known for having two national identities, Monarchy and Anarchy. Monarchy is the traditional British look and Anarchy is the free-spirited look which is related with the postwar phenomenon of rebellious youth culture. As a punk, Westwood participated in creating Anarchic identity of British fashion. But from the 80s, Westwood's attitude toward the national images has been changed. As a high fashion designer who became to represent British fashion in global market, Westwood started to research British dress tradition, especially through comparing with French fashion. She was particularly fascinated with the traditional fabrics like tartans, tweeds and innovative tailoring skills, which were related with the heritage of Englishness in dress. But she didn't follow the conventional ways and tried to reinvent the historical tradition in modern ways. By combining Monarchic tradition with tempting female sexuality, Westwood transgressed the existing ordinary Britishness of British fashion which was composed of aristocratic and royal identities, and created some innovative British fashion images. With these works, Westwood contributed to consolidate Englishness in dress on the one hand, but on the other hand, served to reconfigure Britishness of British fashion. Consequently, Westwood showed that what is believed as the essential national fashion identity can be challenged and reconfigured in modern fashion field.

Keywords

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