Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회지)

Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회)
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Antioxidant and Whitening Activity of Essential Oils

Essential Oils의 항산화 활성 및 미백작용

  • Lim, Hye-Won (Department of Beauty Arts, Seokyeong University) ;
  • Kim, Ju-Yeon (Department of Beauty Arts, Seokyeong University)
  • 임혜원 (서경대학교 미용예술학과) ;
  • 김주연 (서경대학교 미용예술학과)
  • Published : 2005.09.30
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Abstract

This study is performed to investigate the effects of citrus essential oils on melanin production in B16 melanoma cells and reactive oxygen species (ROS) generation in RBL 2H3 cells. Five kinds of citrus essential oil (bergamot, grapefruit, lemmon, mandarin, petigrain) did not have any influence on DPPH radical scavenger activity, cell growth and cytotoxicity in B16 melanoma cells. In purified tyrosinase assay, both mandarin and petigrain essential oils dose-dependently inhibited its activity, but bergamot did not. In $1{\mu}M\;{\alpha}-MSH-stimulated$ B16 melanoma cells, all of 5 citrus essential oils inhibited melanin production in $\underline{a}$ dose dependent manner. On the other hand, four kinds of citrus essential oil dose-dependently increased ROS generation in RBL 2H3 mast cells, but mandarin did not. From the above results, it is possible that citrus essential oils nay be developed to be anti-melanogenic agent on the basis of their inhibitory effect on MSH-induced melanin production. Hut we can not rule out the possibility of the induction of allergy and inflammation since citrus essential oils caused ROS generation in RBL 2H3 mast cells.

Citrus essential oil (bergamot, grapefruit, lemon, mandarin, petigrain)이 B16 melanoma 세포에서 melanin 생성에 미치는 영향과 RBL 2H3 비만세포에서 ROS 생성에 미치는 영향을 관찰하였다 5 종류의 citrus essential oil은 DPPH 라디칼 소거와 세포 증식 및 독성에서 대조군에 비해 유의한 변화를 일으키질 않았다. 정제한 tyrosinase 활성에 있어서 mandarin과 petigrain essential oil은 유의하게 tyrosinase 활성을 억제하였으나 bergamot은 전혀 억제하지 않았다. 이러한 결과는 mandarin과 petigrain essential oil이 tyrosinase 효소 억제 기전은 설명하지 못하지만 tyrosinase 효소에 직접적으로 작용하여 억제하는 것으로 보인다. B16 melanoma 세포에서 MSH에 의한 melanin 생성이 5 종류의 citrus essential oil에 의해 모두 농도 의존적으로 억제되었다. Bergamot essential oil은 tyrosinase 효소 활성을 직접적으로 억제하지는 못했지만 melanoma 세포에서 MSH에 의한 melanin 생성은 억제하는 것으로 나타났다. 다른 4종류의 citrus essential oil도 모두 tyrosinase 효소 활성을 억제하였으며, MSH에 의한 melanin 생성도 억제하였다. 한편 DCF-DA를 이용한 ROS 생성에 있어서는 madarin essential oil은 ROS 생성에 이렇다 할 영향을 주지 않았지만 다른 4개의 essential oil (Bergamot, Grapefruit, Lemon, Petigrain)은 농도 의존적으로 ROS 생성을 증가시켰다. 이상의 결과를 종합하여 볼 때 citrus essential oil은 MSH에 의한 melanin 생성을 억제하는 것으로 보아 미백제로서의 개발 가능성이 있는 것으로 사료된다.

Keywords

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