대한화장품학회지 (Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea)

  • 제30권2호
  • /
  • Pages.159-165
  • /
  • 2004
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  • 1226-2587(pISSN)
  • /
  • 2288-9507(eISSN)
대한화장품학회 (Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea)
권호 표지

수소첨가레시친을 이용한 액정 젤의 형성과 보습효과

Formation of Liquid Crystalline with Hydrogenated Lecithin and Its Effectiveness

  • Kim, In-Young (Skin Science Institute and R&D Center, Enprani Co., Ltd.) ;
  • Lee, Joo-Dong (Skin Science Institute and R&D Center, Enprani Co., Ltd.) ;
  • Ryoo, Hee-Chang (Skin Science Institute and R&D Center, Enprani Co., Ltd.) ;
  • Zhoh, Choon-Koo (Department of Chemical & Enviromental Engineering, Soogsil University)
  • 발행 : 2004.09.01
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초록

이 연구는 O/W 에멀젼에서 주성분으로 수소첨가 레시친(이하 HL)을 사용한 액정젤(이하 LCG)을 형성하는 방법에 대하여 기술하였다. 가장 적절한 LCG의 조성에 대한 안정성 시험과는 다음과 같다. 액정을 형성하기 위하여 사용된 조성은 다음과 같다. 유화제로 4.0wt%의 HL과 부스터로 4.0wt%의 세토스테아릴알코올(CA)를 사용하였다. 액정 젤의 형성에 보습제는 글리세린 2.0wt%, 1,3-부틸렌글리콜(1,3-BG) 3.0wt%, 에몰리엔트는 사이크로메치몬 4.0wt%, 이소노닐이소노나노에이트(ININ) 3.0wt%, 카프릭카프릴릭트리글리세라이드(CCTG) 3.0wt%, 마카데미아넛오일(MNO) 3.0wt%을 사용하였다. 최적의 LCG의 형성조건은 pH=4.0-11.0 범위에서 잘 형성되었으며, 피부안전성을 고려하여 6.0$\pm$1.0 범위로 설정하였다. 가장 안정한 경도는 32dyne/$\textrm{cm}^2$이었다. LCG으 입자크기는 1-20$\mu\textrm{m}$ 범위이었으며, 가장 잘 형성되는 입자 크기는 1-6$\mu\textrm{m}$에서 가장 잘 형성되었다. 편광현미경을 통하여 액정의 형성 및 모양을 관찰하였으며, 액정의 둘레 주위에 다중라멜라 구조가 형성되는 것을 확인하였다. 피검자 20명을 대상으로 하여 피부보습효과를 임상측정한 결과 placebo크림에 비하여 36.6%가 증가하였다. 그 이유는 액정의 주위의 친수그룹이 폴리올들을 많이 흡수하고 있기 때문이라고 예측하였다. 이 LEG형성 이론을 근거로 하여 의약 및 화장품 산업에 크게 응용될 것으로 기대한다.

This study described about method that forms liquid crystal gel (LCG) by main ingredient with hydrogenated lechin (HL) in O/W emulsion system. Result of stability test is as following with most suitable LCG's composition. Composition of LCG is as following, to form liquid crystal, an emulsifier used 4.0wt% of cetostearyl alcohol (CA) by 4.0wt% of HL as a booster. Moisturizers contained 2wt% of glycerin and 3.0wt% of 1,3-butylene glycol (1,3-BG). Suitable emollients used 3.0wt% of cyclomethicone, 3.0wt% of isononyl isononanoate (ININ), 3.0wt% of cerpric/carprylic triglycerides (CCTG), 3.0wt% of macademia nut oil (MNO) in liquid crystal gel formation. On optimum conditions of LCG formation, the pHs were formed all well under acidity or alkalinity conditions (pH=4.0-11.0). Considering safety of skin, pH was the most suitable 6.0${\pm}$1.0 ranges. The stable hardness of LCG formation appeared best in 32 dyne/$\textrm{cm}^2$. Particle of LCG is forming size of 1-20$\mu\textrm{m}$ range, and confirmed that the most excellent LCG is formed in 1-6$\mu\textrm{m}$ range. According to result that observe shape of LCG with optical or polarization microscope, LCG could was formed, and confirmed that is forming multi -layer lamellar type structure around the LCG. Moisturizing effect measured clinical test about 20 volunteers. As a result, moisturizing effect of LCG compares to placebo cream was increased 36.6%. This could predicted that polyol group is appeared the actual state because is adsorbed much to round liquid crystal droplets to multi-lamellar layer's hydrophilic group. It could predicted that polyol group is vast quantity present phase that appear mixed because is adsorbed to round liquid crystal to multi-lamellar layer's hydrophilic group. This LCG formation theory may contribute greatly in cosmetics and pharmacy industry development.

키워드

참고문헌

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