초록
꼭두서니에서 추출한 염료를 이용해 몇 가지 조건에서 견직물을 천연염색 해 봄으로써 견직물에 대한 꼭두서니의 염색성과 염료로서의 이용성을 조사하였다. 꼭두서니 추출물로 모시 섬유를 염색 한 결과 표면색은 YR계열로 나타났으나 매염제에 따라 다소 차이가 있어 FeSO$_4$, SnC1$_4$, tartaric acid에서 는 Y계열로, 동백, 콩대재에서는 R계열로 나타났다. 염색온도에 따른 모시섬유의 표면색과 염착농도는 염색온도가 높을수록 a값이 증가한 반면에 b값은 감소되었고, L값은 낮아졌다. 염착농도는 7$0^{\circ}C$ , 9$0^{\circ}C$, 6$0^{\circ}C$순으로 높았다. 염액의 pH에 따른 표면색은 pH 4와 9에서는 순 Y계열을 나타냈으며, 염착농도는 산이 강할수록 K/S값이 다소 높게 나타났다. 염액의 농도에 따른 표면색은 농도에 관계없이 기본적으로 YR계 열로 발색 되었으며 , 염착농도는 염액의 농도가 높을 수록 증가하는 경향을 나타냈다. 염 색시간에 따른 표면색과 염착농도는 10-120분간에 큰 차이가 없어 10분간으로도 충분한 것으로 나타났다.
This study was carried out to investigate into the dyeability of ramie fabrics using the extract of native plant, red-dye madder (Rubia akane Nakai) in different conditions. Surface color of ramie fabrics dyed with extracts from red-dye madder plants showed an order of descent YR. However, it was changed by the different mordants. Surface color of ramie fabrics treated with FeSO$_4$, SnCl$_4$, and tartaric acid was an order of descent Y, and that treated with the ashes of common camellia, and bean straw was an order of descent R. At higher temperatures, surface color and coloring matter concentration of ramie fabrics were as follows that values of a increased, however, values of b decreased and values of L lowered. Coloring matter concentration increased in the order of 7$0^{\circ}C$, 9$0^{\circ}C$, and 6$0^{\circ}C$, and so on. Dyeing colors on the ramie fabrics showed an order of descent Y by pH 4 and 9 in dyestuffs solutions. Coloring matter concentration in terms of K/S values, more or less, was increased at strong acids. Surface color by the concentration of dyestuffs solutions showed an order of descent YR irrelevant to the concentration of dyestuffs solutions. Coloring matter concentration was increased at higher concentrations of dyestuffs solutions. Ten minutes was sufficient for the dyeing of ramie fabrics in terms of surface color and coloring matter concentration.
