불규칙한 수심단면에서 쇄파대 부근의 파고변형

Wave Transformation near the Surfzone on the Arbitrary Beach Profile

The objective of this paper is to develop two numerical model for predicting the wave height with set-up/down near the surfzone on a arbitrary beach profile. Two wave models, regular wave model and random wave model, are based on the energy flux equation with the energy dissipation effects. The developed numerical models are verified by comparison of numerical results with analytical solutions that are derived under the simple conditions. The characteristics of parameters included in each model are then investigated and decided to the range of behaviour by the sensitivity analysis. For sensitivity analysis, we carried out total 46 laboratory tests. Finally, the developed numerical models are applied to the field where the wave height near the surfzone has been measured. From the applications of numerical models, it is concluded that the developed numerical models may accurately predict the wave height with the set-up/down near the surfzone on a arbitrary beach profile.