초록
To investigate the mechanical properties of ramie, and flax blend fabrics, 16 mechanical properties was measured using KES-FB system. Most of the mechanical property values of finished(scoured, bleached, or mercerized) fabrics were lower than those of grey fabrics. Therefore finishing seems to make fabrics more extensible and give a better resilience. It also makes fabrics surface more uniform and smooth. Among the primary hand value of fabrics, smoothness and fullness were increased through finishing, but stiffness was decreased. LT and WT of ramie were lower than those of flax, but B and 2HB of ramie were higher than those of flax. So, it was found that ramie was more easily extended at initial stage and had better resilience and softness. However, two fabrics have no difference in hand value. Cotton blended with ramie and flax made RT, B, 2HB values smaller but WT, G, 2HG, 2HGS values larger. Rayon blended fabrics have got WT, B and 2HB values lower, and RT value has be larger. With polyester blending, WT, B and 2HB were decreased but LT and RT increased. Therefore ramie and flax fabrics become flexible and stable in shape through blending. Stiffness and fullness became larger as the weight of fabric Increases, but smoothness became smaller. 2HB/B, 2HB/W and $sqrt{SHB/W}$ of ramie was lower than those of flax. So, ramie has better liveliness, resistance to shape deformation. With cotton, rayon or polyester blending, B/W, 2HB/W, $sqrt{SHB/W}$, TEX>$^3sqrt{B/W}$ were decreased. Therefore blending gives better shape stability, liveliness, flexibility and drapability.
