한국해안해양공학회지 (Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers)
- 제8권1호
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- Pages.37-43
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- 1996
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- 1017-7116(pISSN)
쇄파 발생에 관한 실험적 연구
An Experimental Study on Breaking Waves
초록
본 논문에서는 2차원 수조의 임의 지점에서 쇄파를 만드는 실험방법에 대하여 논하였다. 쇄파를 만들기 위해서 임의의 지점에 각 성분의 파정이 모이도록 위상차를 갖는 선형파를 합성하여 조파기를 작동시켰다. 또한 조파판의 운동진폭을 조절하여 다양한 파기울기에 대하여 실험을 수행하였다. 실험 결과 운동진폭이 너무 작은 경우에는 쇄파현상이 일어나지 않았고 불규칙한 파형만이 나타났으며, 최대파고가 H=0.0113g/T
Breaking waves were generated in a 2-D flume. A piston-type wavemaker was operated in accordance with signals which consist of elementary harmonics with appropriate phase differences. These phase differences were estimated by using a linear wave theory so that wave crests were to be concentrated at the same position. The stroke of wavemaker was controlled to create plunging-type breaking waves. The signal with small amplitude could not generate breaking waves. In the case of moderate amplitudes, various breaking waves could be obtained. Most of breaking waves were spilling type. Only when the wavemaker was operated with appropriate amplitude, plunging-type breaking waves were generated. The parameters of breaking waves are the wave steepness and the frequency bandwidth. If the central frequency was low, breaking waves were not generated. Based on experimental data, we found that the wave height of breaking inception was H = 0.0113 gT
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