A study on the slacks pattern making according to the Movement-Fitness (Part I)

동작 적합성에 따른 Slacks Pattern 설계에 관한 연구 (Part I)

The purpose of this study was to investigate the slacks pattern making on the movement-fitness of the knee region. The experimental items were divided into the lower limb movement (M1~M5) and slacks pattern designs (4 : basic pattern, in-pleats, side-pleats, seam-line increase). This study was done by clothing pressure test, sensory evaluation test and the difference shape-transformation of wearing-slacks. The summarized finding resulted from experiments and investigation are suggested as follows ; First, the clothing pressure test showed that the order of clothing pressure in the movement was the rabbit leap movement (M3), the sit on knees (M4), the nobleman sitting (M5), the sit on chair (M2) from the highest to the lowest. In the comparison of clothing pressure tested by blocks of lower-limb, center front knee region shows the highest of 300g/cm2. In it by constructional methods, the clothing pressure of in-pleats, side-pleats methods shows lower than basic pattern, hem-line increase methods. Also in comparison of the two methods, in-pleats method shows lower than side-pleats method. Second, by the sensory evaluation test based on the lower-limb movements and constructional methods of slacks, it was found that the functional factor score of the rabbit leap movement was also the waist, hip, knee region was the lowest in all blocks. And in the comparison of constructional methods, in-pleats method was the highest in all methods. Third, in consideration of the difference in the shape-transformation of wearing-slacks on the movement-fitness, pleats pattern design methods showed that the ratio of shape-transformation was lower than basic on seam-line increase methods. But the difference of the side-pleats and in-pleats methods was litle. According to these investigation, the slacks pattern making caused by movement-fitness on the knee region, in-pleats design method was the functional slacks pattern.