A Study on Surface Drift Velocity in Water Waves

파랑에 의한 수표면 부유속도에 관한 연구

  • 김태인 (공군사관학교 토목공학과) ;
  • 최한규 (강원대학교 토목공학과) ;
  • 권혁재 (강원대학교 토목공학과)
  • Published : 1995.12.01

Abstract

To clarify the surface drift velocity in gravity waves. experimental data measured in a two-dimensional wave flume were compared with theoretical values predicted by the Stokes 2nd- and 5th- order theories as well as by the conduction solution or Longuet-Hinggins (1953). Relative water depth and wave height ranged 0.040.13. For a closed flume condition, Stokes 2nd-order theory gives lower values than the experimental data, and the differences increase as both relative water depth and wave height increase. Based on the observed data of the surface drift velocities, a modified Parabolic model of the return current velocity Profile has been suggested, which is Proved to fit better to the existing experimental data of mass transport velocity profiles in a closed wave flume than the models of Longuet-Hinggins (1953) and Stokes wave theories do.

파 운동에 의한 수표면 부유속도를 규명하기 위하여 Stokes 2차 파이론, Stokes 5차 파이론 및 Longuet-Higgins(1953)의 전도해 등에 의한 이론치를 2차원 조파수조에서 실측한 실험치와 비교분석하였다. 실험간 상대수심의 범위는 0.04

Keywords