현대 패션에 나타난 패러디(Parody)에 관한 연구

A Study on Parody Expressed in Modern Fashion

Parody has recently prevailed as one of the important techniques of creation in art. The purposes of this study are to reaffirm the pos-ition of fashion as an art by clarifying parody depicted in fashion and to make an opportunity to reconsider the meaning of creation in fashion design through the significance of par-ody. For these purposes, documentary studies about parody in literature and art which had been discussed more often were preceded as a framework of this research. framework of this research. Basedd upon that, parody phenomena in fashion as well as art were analyzed. The synthetic results are as follows ; 1. Parody is a kind or critical technique and can be conceived as a process of creation. The established primary style (material) which is well-known and familiar is imitated and then is recreated in new manner through the three types of parodization, that is, the change of its external form, the change of its internal mean-ing and the shift from its place (i.e. displace-ment). 2. Parody in fashion is also analyzed based upon the three types of parodization which designer's will and expression is necessarily required. First, the parody through the change of external form is to have its effect of novelty, unexpectedness, playfulness, wit, mackery, satire, irony, paradox by changing the form of the original through imitation with similarity, transformation, exaggeration, em-phasis. Second, the parody through the change of internal meaning is to bring about paradox, irony, contempt, satire, unex-pectedness by applying the original to inappro-priate subject through its substitution, inver-sion. Third, the parody through displacement is to pursue a jarring incongruity that results from shifting the original to other context. Its effect consists of paradox, unexpectedness, playfulness, ridicule, mockery, satire, irony. In general, the parody technique in fashion can be used to have an intention of expressing seriousness, playfulness, satire, grotesque. The representative designers using the parody technique are Lagerfeld, Ricci, YSL, Yama-moto, Castelbajac, Gaultier, Mugler, West-sood, Steiner and so on. 3. Parody is the technique which imitates and then recreates the preceding style ; is at the same time the method which challenges the existing concept of originality-singleness and uniqueness. It reflects the more flexible concept of modern creation in art as well as fashion. The imitation as the creation, the characteristic of parody is recognized as an creative expressiveness, publicity, intention. Thus it differenciates from copy which is uncritical mimicry.