한국의류학회지 (Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles)
- 제16권4호
- /
- Pages.357-369
- /
- 1992
- /
- 1225-1151(pISSN)
- /
- 2234-0793(eISSN)
인체에 대한미의식에 따른 복식형태 -고대 이집트에서 낭만주의 시대까지-
The Form of Dress related to the Ideal Beauty of Body - from Ancient Egypt to the Romantic Period-
- Ryu Ki-Joo (Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Seoul National University) ;
-
Kim Min-Ja
(Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Seoul National University)
- 발행 : 1992.12.01
초록
The purpose of this study was to clarify the relationship between the Ideal Beauty of Body and the Form of Dress, and to analyze its historical perspectives. First of all, the concept of the Ideal Beauty of Body, the definition of Dress Form, and the method and system to clarify Dress Form were depicted. Based on this frame work, the Form of Dress related to the Ideal Beauty of Body was described historically. For this purpose, documentary research were conducted and representative photography and paintings were used. The analysis was limited to the female one-Piece dress from Ancient Egypt, Greece, Rome, Byzantine, Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, Rococo, Naoclassicism, and to Romanticism. The results were as follows: 1. The Ideal Beauty of Body was found to be different throughout history and to be intimate- ly linked with fashionable dress. 2. The Form of Dress consisted of four basic components: The form of body itself, the form of clothing itself, the method of wearing, and the relationship between body and clothing. 3. The standards for classification of body form were body structure, body type, body proportion, posture, and movement. Clothing form was generally classified into flat type (unstructured type) and three dementional type (structured type); flat type was subclassified into draped type and tunic type. The method of wearing was classified into attached type, tying-up type, wrap·around type, pull-over type, open type and plastistic type. The relationship between body and clothing after wearing was generally classified into body priority type and clothing priority type. The clothing priority type was further divided into body exaggeration type and body concealment type; Body exaggeration type was further divided into upward type, downward type, forward type, backward type, right type and constriction type. 4. The pursuit of venus coelestis, metaphysical body part, ectomorphic body type, flat type clothing, body priority type; the pursuit of Venus Naturalis, physical body part, endomorphic body type, three dementional type clothing, clothing priority type proved to be closely related respectively by the historical study on the Ideal Beauty of Body and the Form of Dress.
키워드