KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research (대한토목학회논문집)
- Volume 12 Issue 4_1
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- Pages.129-136
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- 1992
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- 1015-6348(pISSN)
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- 2799-9629(eISSN)
Surface Elevation Recovery Methods from Pressure Gage for Irregular Waves
불규칙파(不規則波에) 대한 압력식(壓力式) 파고계(波高計)의 적용성(適用性)에 관한 연구(研究)
- Received : 1992.06.17
- Published : 1992.12.31
Abstract
A precedure for recovering surface displacement from a time series of pressure measured by a pressure gage in a shallow water (that is, FFTM, LCM. IWM) is investigated with respect to a proper cut-off-frequency of a frequency response function for the accurate recovery of wave height and period. The authors examined the applicability of above mentioned three transformation procedures through field observations and laboratory experiments and the following results are obtained. i) The cut-off-frequency of the frequency response function used in FFTM is deeply depend on both the frequency response of the pressure sensor and the water depth at the sensor. In this study, a relatively accurate surface displacement can be recovered when the frequency response function is cut off at the frequency corresponding to kh=3.0 where k is a wave number at the depth of h. The frequency response function in the region higher than the cut-off-frequency is set constant to be the value at the cut-off-frequency. ii) The transformed surface displacements by LCM are affected by the small waves of short periods included in the measured pressure. It is found that pressure variation whose local frequency is higher than kh=1.5 has to be neglected to recover surface displacement sufficiently. iii) In IWM, the linear pressure response function is usually utilized by multiplying a coefficient N which is a function of the frequency (or kh) and takes a value around unity. However, in this study, a constant value of N(=1.0) gives a relatively accurate recovery of surface displacements.
압력식(壓力式) 파고계(波高計)에서 측정(測定)되어진 압력파형(壓力波形)으로부터 수위변동(水位變動)을 추정(推定)하는 방법(方法)에 대해서 1) Fast Fourier Transform Method(FFTM), 2) Local Curvature Method(LCM), 3) Individual Wave Method(IWM)의 3가지 방법(方法)을 비교(比較)하여, 천해역(淺海域)에 있어서의 파랑측정(波浪測定)에 대한 압력식(壓力式) 파고계(波高計)의 적용성(適用性)에 대해 검토(檢討)했다. 그 결과(結果) 다음과 같은 결론(結論)을 얻었다. 1) 측정(測定)되어진 압력파형(壓力波形)으로부터 수위변동(水位變動)을 추정(推定)할 때에 사용(使用)되어지는 이론선형응답함수(理論線形應答函數)(Hp=coshkh/coshk(h+z)의 적용가능범위(適用可能範圍)(cut-off-frequency)는
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