Computation of Wave Height Variations Due to Refraction

굴절로 인한 파고변화계산

A numerical model is presented that predicts directly the wave angle and height at every point on the grid. The governing equations used are conservation of waves equation and conservation of energy equation which are derived from the basic linear potential equations by means of an asympotic approximation. Finite difference methods are used to solve the governing equations and the solution is obtained for a finite number of rectilinear grid cells that comprise the domain of interest. Model results are compared with the results obtained from wave ray methods and it shows no significant differences between two results. The model is especially efficient for modeling large areas of coastline with arbitrary bathymetry, and therefore it is anticipated to be used in many coastal engineering problems such as littoral drift problems.

점근근사법(漸近近似法)을 사용(使用)하여 유도(誘導)된 파수(波數) 보존방정식(保存方程式)과 에너지 보존방정식(保存方程式)을 사용(使用)하여 대상영역(對象領域)의 전격자점(全格子點)에 대한 파향(波向)과 파고(波高)를 직접 구(求)하는 수치모형(數値模型)을 제시(提示)한다. 수치해법(數値解法)은 유한차분법(有限差分法)을 사용(使用)하였으며 계산결과(計算結果)를 파향선법(波向線法)으로 구(求)한 결과(結果)와 비교(比較)하였다. 연안표사(沿岸漂砂)의 연구 또는 해안제방(海岸堤防)의 설계시 등에 이 방법을 적용할 수 있을 것이다.